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  1. Yesterday
  2. Goce - A while back I did some research on the Lada POCH race cars. Engines weren't turbocharged, but they were built NA Maurolec engines that were rated at 240HP, and then later they used the ROC version of the engine with their DOHC 4 valve head on a 2.5L version of this motor making 280HP. Funny enough they then went to the PRV V6 after that. http://lada-poch.e-monsite.com I'd LOVE to find the ROC head for these engines, but the cams would be all wrong for boost. If you're ever able to meet and ask about how they twin plugged the head I'd definitely be open to modifying my heads as well. 240HP out of an I4 SOHC 8v on carbs is very impressive - especially in offroad endurance racing. Rabin
  3. The cap can do on a N/A Matra Murena, to be Murena friendly you also need those two mounting bosses:
  4. Sadly those kinds of dyno services aren't available, and at $150+/hr in the bigger cities it's just not feasible to do it in Canada unless you have very deep pockets! Bill: Very good point - Part of the driver to go to a proper standalone ECU Is it can limit boost based on engine temp - Once the car is properly up to temp - then it can be set up to increase boost. They also usually have WBO2 oxygen sensors, and ideally an EGT sensor so that fueling the motor is so much morr accurate. Rabin
  5. Last week
  6. I like this discussion, and want to say from the start i don't have any direct experience with this engine but have some with POCH tuned lada race engine which supposedly is an n9te engine. Mechanics that worked on those engines are still around here and have told stories on how tight and robust they are, also that the head resembles more a alfa romeo twin cam head then the factory peugeot head. i've seen an Lada Poch (simca JRD) head of the block and it has hemispheric cambers and staggered valves very similar like peugeot used on the TU engines but much bigger and twin spark plugs if i remember right. In my opinion to get the right answer, why do they crack you must strap an engine on a dyno and use a thermal camera and see how the coolant behaves under loads i'm sure there is same hot spots, some mods like polishing the combustion chambers enlarging some of the coolant pass edges and using waterless coolant will fix this problem but some one needs to spent the time to figure this out.
  7. I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. I remember someone saying that the n9 has an iron block with an aluminum head. The concern was the different rates of expansion between the two metals. i remember reading the owner’s manual cover to cover from my first (83 505 STI), and it said to never race a cold engine. The turbos have an oil temperature gauge, and it does take considerable time / miles for it to get up to temp. i see way too many folks jump in the car and do burn outs and such. Dumb. Bill
  8. Agreed on the beryllium copper seats - When I had done the research on the probability of the valve seats being too tight, those were the recommended seats to use. 5 angle valve job on intake, stock 3 angle on the exhaust. As for the cap - If one is going through all this work to modify the N9T** a standalone ECU really is a must, so hopefully a distributor wouldn't be in the scope of this project. Rabin
  9. You can also use a Nissan 720 distributor cap for a period correct look. And for the existing heads why not beryllium copper valve seats, with this you can hope to spread the heat away from the cracking zone.
  10. Thanks SRDT! I've seen his twin plug heads as well, but we'd need to collaborate on the specifics so that heads here could be fixed and machined for the second plug. Firing two plugs would be easy with standalone as you could simply use a v8 coil pack or 4x wasted spark coil packs. I've got a couple wrecked heads I could use for R&D, but finding someone to do the machining would be tough. Rabin
  11. The best way to have new heads cast is probably to made them JRD style so that they can also be machined for dual plugs and used in historic race cars. You should ask Marcel Morel about that: http://www.maurelec.fr/
  12. Danielson head: These are subject to the same head cracking as the OE heads. My understanding is that they got the same head castings, but that they were machined slightly differently. I see no signs of welding and re-machining - so if that was done it was done really well. Combustion chamber is shaped different, and the spark plug was changed to a different angle entry, as well as a smaller 10mm race plug design (same as a sport bike). Rabin
  13. Some answers to the questions on FB: Closed deck: Sounds like someone has Subaru experience in their past. Not only is it a closed deck design, but it's an iron block so the block is very stout. Head crack history: Likely more due to the era this engine was built as even Toyota had head cracking issues. MANY other car makers including BMW's have the exact same issue with cracked heads - but no one really makes a fuss as they're fixable for reasonable money just like N9T** heads. Head crack causes: Some say it's due to a common practice during that era of press fitting valve seats with too much interference. Over time it caused the crack from the seat to the water jacket. Others claim poor cooling systems. My theory: I've studied this for damn near 20 years and I think it's poor cooling circulation system design. As soon as the closed system is compromised the head vulnerable to air pockets which causes temperature differentials in the head. The reservoir HAS to be completely above the head, and the head, engine, and rad NEED to be able to self bleed themselves of air. I've got a ton of ideas on how to fix this - I just have lacked the time to document and test on my own engines. Head fixes: This is a relatively easy fix, with known good shops providing great repairs. If there was enough interest I'm sure we could organize a group buy on head repairs, I'd even be happy to approach them for costing if we had 5 or so ready to put down cash. Overall I think the N9TE has crazy potential and is seriously overlooked. Biggest issue is the limited capabilities of the ECU, and I'm sure if these had a well tuned standalone (+ injectors) you could throw quite a bit more at this engine even with the stock bottom end. Throw in forged pistons and lighter forged rods and I see no reason why these wouldn't be 300 RWHP cars. Rabin
  14. trymes

    Let's talk N9T** head issues...

    I am definitely interested in this topic, as I am 99% certain that my car’s head has given up the ghost. Tom
  15. From Facebook: Let's talk n9t/e/ea head failures, did they get better or worse since 1984? Has anyone actually narrowed down the actual cause of cracking? Also has anyone ever replicated the head? Hopefully using a better alloy? If so has that head cracked in the same location? I also recall someone mentioning that the danielson head might have had the same cracking issue? Is the cracking due to insufficient cooling? Or the wrong combination of metals? Or a bit of both? Material thickness? Poorly designed chambers? Anyone here own or know of a cyl head shop that could do some testing? How often do the heads crack again after a welding job? Could we make a group effort to help these engines live longer and with a ton more boost? (Yes I know the driveline wont last, splines and all) Maybe do some of our own R&D? If it so happens that the head would crack due to the materials used, maybe it's just simple as having it replicated with a different alloy? I plan on rebuilding my motor in the yellow car, or possibly swapping in another n9te I have out of an auto wagon which had just been redone before pulled. I need to drive this yellow 505 again it runs however has developed a rod knock, it's been too long, and I need more boost, let's do this.
  16. Earlier
  17. Ok, but...which one is the oil pressure sensor? I know the oil level sensor is in the pan on the left of the engine, below the oil filter, but I can’t say which is the oil pressure sensor.
  18. Check the low oil pressure switch on the engine block, this one doesn't need any trick to illuminate before start. The missing warning lights may be wired with the low oil pressure switch to illuminate before start.
  19. So, like most cars, the Peugeot is supposed to illuminate various warning lights in the cluster when you first turn the key on, but before you start the engine so you can confirm that the bulb is good and know that it will work if something goes wrong. In addition, the oil temp gauge is supposed to show the oil level when the key is on and the engine is not running. However, on my car, the only lights that are illuminating before starting the engine are the battery light, the yellow "knock" LED, and the "BRAKE" light. The oil level function isn't working, either. However, I have noticed that many of these lights do, in fact, work when the car is running. The low coolant light works, the fuel reserve light works, and the trans temp light works for certain, and I suspect that others are fine, too. What would cause these lights to work when the car is running, but not illuminate prior to startup as they should?
  20. trymes

    My First 505: 1986 Turbo

    Another item for the archives, if anyone is looking for it. The switch at the front of the transmission that threads into the banjo connector headed in from (or out to) the transmission cooler is an oil temperature switch, part #1131.11 - "Switch, N9T transmission temperature". It lights an orange light above the fuel gauge if the temperature of the ATF is too high (over 140, I think). I also found this thanks to Rob Courter @ Javel in Dallas. Pictures of the gauge, the old, broken, part and of the new replacement.
  21. trymes

    My First 505: 1986 Turbo

    Just adding some additional details. I found a Battery Hold Down Clamp via Facebook from Rob Courter at Javel, Inc. in Dallas. Part #5615.21. Here's a photo:
  22. Wheel specs are in the other post with pictures of them 😊 ("These are 7,5x16 ET 7 and 8X16 ET 10´s") About tires, I dont know yet. I´ll wait until I have them on a car to look.
  23. What are the wheel size specs? And what tires do you have in mind for the car? Rabin
  24. After almost 1 year, finally I have the wheels in my possession!! I ordered these directly from Gotti, 22th of July 2017. But today I finally have them I'm my garage! What lovely set of wheels! 🤩
  25. trymes

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    Yes, it was the rheostat that came apart. It’s a maze of traces on a PCB that lifted off of the board and got tangled, then broke. There’s no fixing it from what I see. Tom
  26. Bean

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    Can you post a picture? I can't remember seeing a PCB when I had mine apart, but I figured it had to be a simple printed circuit board if there was one in there - or does it have the rheosat on the PCB? Did the rheostat come apart? That's the coiled wire mess that varies the resistance with the location of the float. I remember messing with the float rheostat to get it to read properly... Rabin
  27. trymes

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    I’m guessing that you haven’t seen the PCB...?
  28. Bean

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    Or solder in wires to replace the pcb - can't imagine being too hard to figure out. Rabin
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