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  2. Thanks. Lets hope August still has the information. Stuff like that is a "must know" if one wants to properly match turbo and injectors etc. Btw I know about the mentioned differences between the 150-180bhp cars. But I wondered specifically if the head was different in some way? Flow, cams, valve size, valve material etc. All possible to know. 😊
  3. Today
  4. Its nice to see you posting again Hugh. I've been in your place couple of times, having many parts cars is a blessing and a headache. Too many options. I've done many cleanouts where i've taken 5-10 loads to the scrapyard of bad and good spare parts just because i have so many of them maybe you should start from that. That way you'll have more space and know what you have.
  5. Bean, I think an update was long overdue. But more importantly, I need to get more active with my projects and start making meaningful progress on them. I will post more pictures soon!
  6. Thanks for the update Hugh! Next time your in Cayley you should pics of the cars you’re referencing for others to see. I finally made it out to Cayley and it really is a happy place for Peugeot enthusiasts! Rabin
  7. Over two years since I last updated this. The car is sitting in Cayley now, much as it was when I last posted. I now have a parts car for it - another '87 STX with body damage and rust but a low-mileage excellent-running ZN3J and a PERFECT dashboard. I have been considering a few options moving forward. The 406 platform is going to become my focus, but I want to build a couple of interesting RWD Pugs still, and the STX still has a place in my plan. I have dramatically pared down my project list, and there is only one 505 on the list now - the '87 STX. So now the question becomes: How best to build it? I think that the most interesting idea is to build this '87 as something of an homage to the Danielson 505 V6 cars - which means installing a Phase I dashboard. That means I can make use of the nice blue Phase I interior I have, except that I want to retain the '87 blue leather seats. I will have to mock this up to see how it looks, but I think the later leather seats sort of resemble the Recaros used in the Danielson cars. Naturally I'll use the three-spoke Grant steering wheel I have and the short-throw shifter is still on the menu. The 505 sunroof cables are problematic, and the sunroof in this car doesn't work in any case. In keeping with the light/simple Danielson theme I think I'll just fit a tinted tip-up unit in place of the OEM sunroof assembly. This should shave a few pounds from the roof and lower the car's center of gravity as well. The body kit stays. May source a Euro front bumper or fit one from an '89 to tidy up the front end. Euro rear bumper as well would integrate better with the body kit as it was designed for those parts. Teves Mk II ABS system and zero-offset front end will be retained, the only modifications being lowering springs and braided stainless brake lines. As for the engine...I could go one of several ways with it. My 604 project is slated to get a turbo 3.0 PRV based on an Eagle Premier engine, but I may go high-revving NA for the STX using a 3.0 Premier block and liners and a 2.5 Renault crank to bring the piston speed at 7000 rpm to the same value as the ZN3J at 6000 rpm. I still need to think about this, and John Lane gave me a lot of food for thought in the previous comments here. I am in the process of aggressively culling my herd to make room for my projects. If I don't start now I will never get them done.
  8. Yesterday
  9. August did get at head flow tested YEARS ago and they were very good, but I can't recall specifics. I tried searching the forum, but it might have been on the old Peugeot-L yahoo group. I'll e-mail him and see if he remembers! Cam specs should be on the forum if you search, pretty sure Danielson cam specs were posted, but the stock cam specs may not have been. Big difference between the 150 and 180HP engines was turbo and turbo boost levels. 180HP cars had electronic boost management with an overboost feature if conditions were met. The other difference was 7:1 compression on the older non intercooled cars, and 7.5:1 for intercooled cars here in North America - Guessing that wasn't the same compression used in Europe however. Rabin
  10. Crikey - Damn near 4 years later and I finally get a hold of Nick and he ended up buying the VEMS stuff, so I can start over fresh and I'll look for a 65mm TB now. Also picked up an EFR6758 T25 IWG turbo, so we'll see what I can put together this winter with the Danielson N9TE motor in my garage. Been leaning towards AEM Infinity 5 series, but well see what happens. Not sure if you even get alerts on this thread anymore Keebs - but I'd be curious what if anything has happened to this project. Rabin
  11. Hello guys! I am searching for the intake head flow numbers of the turbo injection engine. Is this information available somewhere? Are there differences between the years and the 150-180hp engines? And btw. Are camshaft data available? Lift in/out? Duration? Overlap? Lobe separation (LSA)?
  12. Good Afternoon!

    Please let me know if you still have the NOS Peugeot 505 automatic shifter.  My automatic shifter is in need of replacement.  If you located any other NOS Peugeot 505 parts please let me know.  Sean

  13. Last week
  14. I’m pretty sure the failure is the hard line. I’m not sure What size the line is, and if it’s a bubble flare, or what. But the hardline going into the rack. the pump supposedly is an M16 x 1.5 output, according to rock auto the hose supposedly 14 mm Female Flare 16x1.5 Male O-Ring I need to identify the high pressure hard line fitting on the rack, and it’s flare. if I could get a hydraulic high pressure hose custom made to length, with the appropriate fittings, Maybe a 90 degree end on the line, could connect direct to the rack, and I could zip tie along where the Speedo cable hangs
  15. If you cut the line - cut the hose not the hard line. Any good shop should be able to reuse the hardline parts with new hydraulic hose. Just make sure to check the hard line fittings for cracks or damage. Rabin
  16. It is interesting to me how this 404 is built, the insolation, construction, rubber floor mats, it reminds me of Fiat's and Lada's from that time. That said you really are doing quality job restoring and reassembly it and that body color, that deep blue in the photos really looks good.
  17. In my experience almost all euro manufacturers use same fittings, some only metric some mix and match but there is a good chance any hydraulic hose making shop will have new fittings and fresh rubber line for them 100 bar line is like a garden hose they deal all day long with hose exiding 1000 bars, in the past i've had good luck in junkyards with hoses from other makes like Vw volvo the end at the pump is almost always the same just similar length and other end to mach.
  18. Bought a quart of chevron Dex II & 3 compatible ATF at a yard sale, and had it in the trunk, luckily. while making a u-turn today, I heard my power steering groan wildly. I’d been noticing some driveway droplets of ATF, and made note of having a low level. Down 3/4 of a quart today. 3 reservoir refills in, I headed home after the final replenishing, where I cut the belt. Took it for a ride of the car wash without the belt. Steering gets pretty heavy and is difficult on tight turns. i think it’s the high pressure line, possibly, I believe Ive noticed before how the lowest curved line entering the steering rack may be leaking. That’s where my drips are located. if I take the fitting off the rack, and cut the hard line, maybe I could also take the high pressure flex line off the pump, and have a custom hydraulic line made with those ends.
  19. Thanks! All fixed, wire 7 does go to the middle spade terminal (like in your photo, nice); I found out I have a Remy 13059 which is now manufactured by: https://www.bbbind.com/remy/ Found this really nice explanation page: Trouble shooting ignition warning light The original alternator was 570566 Paris-Rhone. My RF filter has one female lead and it says FACON Made in France on it. Topped up coolant and took the old gal for a brisk spin. Cheers
  20. Does your RF filter have two leads? Mine has two leads and appears to be in-line with the signal wire. If not the female spade on the wire can go directly to the spade connector on the alternator like the one lead shown. Let me know if that works. Rabin
  21. Thanks Rabin for your effort.................Courious to see pics of Ryaz's car. If he is willing to send some to my email account I would be gratefuI.
  22. I figured you were from Que by your “interesting” username. I’ll let Riyaz in Toronto know and sent him a link, but he’s not interested in selling either. They’re ridiculously rare, so finding one will prove difficult. Might have to settle for a nice 86-88 series 2 505 Turbo 5sp as they’re a little more abundant. Will definitely keep an eye out though - always do anyway! Rabin
  23. Hi Rabin......thxs for answering my post. I'm from Montreal and looking for a turn key car and not a project car. As for the price............... the overall condition of the car will determine the price. Minor imperfections which can be addressed is ok.
  24. Power wires are usually brown, the green and yellow wires are usually ground wires.. The signal wire is +12V so putting it to ground isn’t likely a good thing - but I’ll confirm in the morning! Rabin
  25. My charge light always stays on. So I think I have attached wire 7A (thin brown wire) to the earth nut on the body of the alternator. There's a single wire (RF filter) going into the plug for the battery light EXC I'll look again to see if I can find the + on the regulator. Does that sound right? A photo would be great! Thanks much, Charging (N9TE and XN6 XD3T ZDJL ZN3J) pg. C2.712 https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachments/peugeot-forum/31359d1342345696-505-504-alternator-switch-505-alternator.jpg
  26. Little concerned by: So I attached the small brown wire to the same bottom post that the RF filter bracket is attached to but the battery charge light in the dash still says on... I just hope the RF filter bracket you mentioned isn’t ground? Connector for the signal wire should be a female flat blade connector, and the alternator should be a male flat blade connector. Rabin
  27. Brown wires are usually power wires, so there should be a spade connector on the back of the alternator that it connects to the alternator that provides the signal voltage. Posting pictures is always best - I can post pics of the back of a turbo alternator as well as possibly the connection side of one installed tomorrow. Rabin
  28. Hi there - I have one (Regina, SK) and another guy has one in Toronto ON. Where are you, and what kind of acceptable condition are you willing to accept? Mostly just curious as I’ve invested thousands into mine in parts ready to go into it, but haven’t started the actual work yet... No interest really in selling - but always willing to entertain interest... Rumour has always been that there were only 14 of them imported, and 89’ was the last year the sedan was sold in North America. Rabin
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