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Everything posted by trymes

  1. trymes

    WANTED: Fuel Gauge Sender

    Thanks, Jerome. I had reached out via email and had an issue teaching that address. I did find one from Brian H, and now my head has cracked...
  2. I am looking for a fuel gauge sender for my ‘86 505. This is the later-style with a three prong connector at the top. I’d be happy with an earlier style, too, but prefer the later. This is Peugeot part #1527.43. Thank you, Tom
  3. trymes

    Let's talk N9T** head issues...

    I am definitely interested in this topic, as I am 99% certain that my car’s head has given up the ghost. Tom
  4. Ok, but...which one is the oil pressure sensor? I know the oil level sensor is in the pan on the left of the engine, below the oil filter, but I can’t say which is the oil pressure sensor.
  5. So, like most cars, the Peugeot is supposed to illuminate various warning lights in the cluster when you first turn the key on, but before you start the engine so you can confirm that the bulb is good and know that it will work if something goes wrong. In addition, the oil temp gauge is supposed to show the oil level when the key is on and the engine is not running. However, on my car, the only lights that are illuminating before starting the engine are the battery light, the yellow "knock" LED, and the "BRAKE" light. The oil level function isn't working, either. However, I have noticed that many of these lights do, in fact, work when the car is running. The low coolant light works, the fuel reserve light works, and the trans temp light works for certain, and I suspect that others are fine, too. What would cause these lights to work when the car is running, but not illuminate prior to startup as they should?
  6. Well, as anyone who has seen my other thread on my bad turbo wastegate actuator knows, I have recently joined the 505 community with the purchase of a 1986 Turbo sedan. Other than the (very unfortunate) actuator problem, it's quite a nice car, though showing some deferred maintenance issues and other old-car stuff. This was user M. Davis' car from new, and he had it up in the classifieds section in case you are wondering where you have seen these pictures before. I've got it going and roadworthy again with a new master cylinder (installed in the parking lot of the Hilton Garden Inn!), and I'm building a punch list. Any input on the relative scarcity of the parts I need would be appreciated: Instrument lights (STOP, etc) are not lighting when I turn the key on. Bad grounds or bad bulbs? Leakage at RR of differential on CV joint boot. The aforementioned wastegate actuator that does not. - I sourced and Installed a Mamba universal actuator, but something is still off. I have sent my actuator off to GB Remanufacturing in Long Beach, CA to have it rebuilt. Hope to have it back soon and install. The hood safety catch is in the trunk. If you install it, it makes it impossible to open the hood without something to pry it out of the way. Electric Mirrors are inoperative. Rear windows are slow to lift. (Getting better with time, but the switch for the left rear is intermittent). Need to lubricate the sunroof. The Charge light (battery icon) glows dimly when the lights are on and I press the brakes (bad grounds?). The Battery hold-down is AWOL. - Found a part from Rob Courter @ Javel in Dallas. Part #5615.21. Need to install, still. Fuel Gauge Sender/Sensor was bad, the traces on the resistor board lifted and got tangled up in the float. I managed to source one from Brian Holm, but I am guessing that it might need to come out again to have the contacts cleaned. Noticed a loose wire under the transmission, looks like it might have been attached to what looks like a sensor in front of the pan that someone has stuffed some Silicone in. It drives fine for now, so hopefully it's not urgent. - Identified this as Part #1131.11 "Switch, N9T transmission temperature" that will light an orange light above the fuel gauge if the transmission fluid overheats. Ordered one up from Rob Courter in Dallas, installed 7/11/2018. The oil dipstick has lost its head. - Sourced 405 8v replacement - Marks are higher than on 505 dipstick, but it will do. Front Sway Bar bushings are completely gone (literally not there). - Replaced 8/27/2017 Crushed and broken elbow connecting intake to turbo. - Installed modified Diesel Accordion hose, need to adjust valve cover breather and charcoal canister connections. Had to take it back out and apply some shoe goo after it split in one spot. Coolant needs a flush. - Completed 8/30/2107 Needs front brake pads and rotors, plus rear pads and four flex lines. - Parts sourced from Brian Holm and installed. Needs a new rubber hose to connect the intercooler and intake. - Fixed. Sourced one from a fellow selling a station wagon in Portland, ME. Steering rack boots are only about 40% still there and the bushings in the "power arm" (?) are shot. - Sourced parts from Bian Holm. Fixed June 2018. In general, the car is very attractive and in good condition. I'm hoping that there is a reasonably easy way to replace the wastegate actuator, though I'm guessing that there isn't . Please let me know your thoughts on the relative ease/difficulty of sourcing the parts needed for the above list. EDIT: See my other threads about the car not exceeding 3000 RPM for what is required to remove the actuator (spoiler alert: you need to remove the RH motor mount, but not the turbo or exhaust manifold).
  7. trymes

    My First 505: 1986 Turbo

    Another item for the archives, if anyone is looking for it. The switch at the front of the transmission that threads into the banjo connector headed in from (or out to) the transmission cooler is an oil temperature switch, part #1131.11 - "Switch, N9T transmission temperature". It lights an orange light above the fuel gauge if the temperature of the ATF is too high (over 140, I think). I also found this thanks to Rob Courter @ Javel in Dallas. Pictures of the gauge, the old, broken, part and of the new replacement.
  8. trymes

    My First 505: 1986 Turbo

    Just adding some additional details. I found a Battery Hold Down Clamp via Facebook from Rob Courter at Javel, Inc. in Dallas. Part #5615.21. Here's a photo:
  9. trymes

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    Yes, it was the rheostat that came apart. It’s a maze of traces on a PCB that lifted off of the board and got tangled, then broke. There’s no fixing it from what I see. Tom
  10. trymes

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    So, my fuel gauge wouldn’t go over 1/3 tank, so I pulled the sender (side note: I need a fuel gauge sender - do you have one?). To do this, I had to remove the rear seat, the CHMSL, and the rear speakers, along with the parcel shelf. While I had the speakers out, I popped the covers off and noticed that they were in pretty rough shape. $37.00 and a little solder later, and I have two new speakers sounding pretty good. This leaves me thinking I should inspect and likely replace the front speakers as well, but I can’t figure out how to get the kick panels off. Is there an easy way? Tom
  11. trymes

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    I’m guessing that you haven’t seen the PCB...?
  12. trymes

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    Thanks, Rabin. The fuel sender wasn’t rusty at all, but the traces had lifted from the printed circuit board, and the float got tangled up in them, so it’s shot. I could probably swap in a good PCB, if I had one. Tom
  13. I am looking for a sunroof seal, as mine whistles at speed. I also noticed that there is no rubber seal between the power antenna on my car and the fender, so I figured I ask to see if that’s something anyone has available. Many thanks, Tom
  14. trymes

    '86 505S Sedan ZF FS Newburyport, MA

    Nina, you probably realized this already, but that post was from over three years ago.
  15. trymes

    2 505 turbo parts cars and a 505 v6 parts/fix

    Jerome, I am looking for a fuel gauge sender, but you e-mail bounced back as invalid. Is this something that you have? Tom
  16. trymes

    88 peugeot 505 Turbo 5 spd

    I’m looking for a fuel gauge sender for my ‘86 turbo. Is that something you could pull from the parts car? Never Mind, I found one!
  17. trymes

    Fog Light options

    My car has a pair of Bosch Pilot lights, and they look the part, if you ask me. The former owner sourced a similar light off of a Nissan as a spare, and it has part number "LE 1473 A" and "LE 1478 A" on it, if that helps. Truth be told, I think that the only difference between the lights on the car and the Nissan light is that the Nissan light has "Nissan" on the cover instead of "Bosch Pilot". Tom
  18. trymes

    1983 Turbo Diesel

    Generally, you can hear the turbo spool when driving. It sounds like a whoosh/whistle. The wastegate would be located on the turbo itself, and to confirm it is moving you would remove the actuator arm and twist it to make sure it isn't stuck. Then you would want to manually apply air to the actuator to make sure that the diaphragm isn't torn. Having said that, if you have to ask, this might be a bit much. How mechanically inclined are you?
  19. The blue car looks like a fright pig, and the white car at Brian's looks rough, too. Brian has a V6 manual transmission car that would be the one to go for if you buy one from him. Are you looking for a fun car to drive in the summer and store in the winters, or a car that you can flog through the salt year-round? Also, what kind of budget are you working with? Lastly, where are you located? PS: Brian always says "The head is probably cracked, the pistons are probably shot" if you mention a gas-turbo to him.
  20. trymes

    Item: Peugeot 505 Turbo

    Name: Peugeot 505 Turbo Category: North America Date Added: 2017-09-07 Submitter: trymes   Peugeot 505 Turbo  
  21. trymes

    N9TE Custom Piston Group Buy?

    Another question would be if there is a break in price if more than x sets are ordered. i.e.: If you find four other people on this site to commit to purchasing a kit, it might result in lower costs. PS: Are those Canadian Dollars? Let's make sure that we're all using the same yardstick!
  22. trymes

    N9TE Custom Piston Group Buy?

    If memory serves, I remember something about the rings being a non-standard size? Have you specified a piston size that (with boring) would eliminate that problem and allow the use of cheaper off-the-shelf rings?
  23. Never mind! I found the source of the problem: the inlet accordion hose split.
  24. So, I noticed recently that I am sometimes getting some black/grey smoke at startup (not blue). Then, last night and this morning, when I started the car, it ran like a bag of turds until it warmed up. It would start, then die unless I revved the engine up to 2000 RPM or so. If I put the car in gear it will stall when it is really cold (just started). It gets progressively better until the car is warm, when it seems to be more or less normal-ish. It isn't cold here, maybe 60 F (16 C). The prior owner mentioned having swapped the cold-start injector with a "good" used one. Is there a good place to start testing this?
  25. trymes

    My First 505: 1986 Turbo

    Makes sense. Shouldn't the expansion tank pressure cap relieve the pressure before a hose splits or the radiator tank cracks (assuming the hose is in good condition)?