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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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  1. Not for mine, just a normal circuit board. Its not the harness contacting body either when placing it on. I even retaped electrical wires for extra protection. The mounting studs on my vehicle are metal and touches metal body. Grounds it right out, shuts off 1 of the bulbs in each tail light (left - turns off signal, right- turns off a running taillight bulb). (505- 1985 late year model, XN6, 1986 release)
  2. I know you're ruling out the MAF. I would just incase check air system pan bottom. Clean out the pan first, and then add fresh engine oil to the level.
  3. When car is not running: 1. Turn your lights on, 2. Unsecure the taillight, 3. Put it back in slowly, touching the screws to vehicles drilled holes every once and while on re-entry, 4. Repeat slowly and watch for sparking when touching outside edges or a light to go out and on. Do the screws on the back of the taillight make a spark when putting it through the holes to secure it? Does it cause a light to then shut off/on? Blow a fuse? Then it's a grounding problem right at the light itself and quick fix. Could try rubber around the holes or electrical/duct tape. May lead to bulbs not functioning properly and possible fuse problems. Happened to me, took a hour to figure out and fix by just applying rubber to the holes and sticking lamp back in to secure it, no problems since.
  4. I didn't do the tune up and most work on this vehicle. I bought it from a engineer who worked on his own cars and did majority of the workmanship. Pioneer is an auto shop in Edmonton, Alberta or Jeep/Dodge dealership in Wetaskiwin? I have a control number on brand new vehicles for dealer cost at any dealership. Can't find Pioneer in Google Maps. I was thinking Sandy Lane Auto on south-east side, its pretty close and they have one guy who does Peugeot. The right automotive shop for Four Star Motors (south-side), you were talking about should be able to do it. They work on Audi from what google says on map. I replaced the battery in the vehicle, that helped drastically for starting issues with the spark. Other 2013 battery was not covered by warranty because it didn't transfer over by ownership. Now I got it starting way better to even get it running 2-6 seconds. I swapped the ignition coil but not the condenser. Condenser works. I found a huge problem. You guys we're talking about air flow a lot. I took off the air system to my surprise I found a lot of water that was in it. I took out all the fluid mixture (was water mostly) in the bottom pan with a entire roll of bounty paper towels; I had to remove the oil level screen in it, cleaned it all up really nice. Then I put the screen level back on, and added fresh engine oil back to the pan. Spray cleaned the air sensor and mesh air filter. Sealed it back up, and its now running for about 2-6 seconds off starting (from 5th injector mostly I am guessing? I am a noob). Then it's getting either too much oxygen or fuel (possibly wet gas? different octane?). I go to throttle body and try setting the idle speed. Just can't find a placement to get it idling continuously, online its suggested to do 2 turns out but that causes engine to shake. Under 1 (about 30-110 degrees) turn for mine it is running the best with no shake but even at 0 it has full fuel vacuum but dies out. After looking at another thread on here, I took off the O2 sensor near throttle body which still didn't help (Tried swapping ECM's back and forth as well). I read on a Bosch manual these engines like to have a lot of fuel to run. I suggest this website for a checklist to others, it came in handy. PEUGEOT 505 XN6- Car Care: http://peugeot.mainspot.net/tips/505-XN6.shtml ****It turns out the car needs a static timing to line it up and then timing light when running fully on from youtube videos. Had no clue what set timing meant, thought was just a heading for everything below it on the car care website to do because it had no information. Gonna get on it right away when it stops raining. Also clean the point in the distribution rotor, may need to check gap. Kinda wish that XN6 care was more noob friendly, had no idea placement of distributor was to adjust the timing. Nor that fuel octane would cause the car to need a new timing, thought it would be electrically set by a knock sensor to advance or retard it. Thought the diaphragm screw was the timing... Didn't know what "timing cover" even was. :S Vehicles sure have changed since the 80's. Getting to be a good learning experience. The military mechanic I hired didn't do any of this stuff even with the haynes manual for 505 I let him borrow, and he didn't know anything about it either. Wish the military mechanic I paid all the best in a war zone when theres no modern vehicle from his ignorance of not wanting to learn a old cars system to get evac to a green zone. He just gave up on my car then told me to go sell/donate it and something majorly wrong was with it... =( Was a waste to pay for his help, he didn't even swap any parts for me and my dad. I am gonna continue with that car care tips; I gotta redo most of the procedures after setting timing but I don't have all the tools or experience. I am learning vehicle definitions as I go along and reading manuals. This is the first time I've actually done anything with a car engine, and mostly doing it by myself now. I'll keep searching the internet for solutions as well. I noticed a hose not connected on the AC, don't know where it would go to either because can't see any place from top angle, that it would connect too and my dad has my haynes manual for diagrams right now. Also unsure about another hose that wasn't connected to anything that might be the fuel pressure system (has 2 lines in from fuel distributor and its right beside the air system; quite possibly a air in/out-valve, is it not suppose to be connected to anything? Kinda thought it may be connected into the vacuum system but the car care says shock towers should have 1 place open for air at bottoms).
  5. Hey, my name is Jonathan. Ya I still can't find the problem and my mechanics given up on this vehicle. My dad is boggled as well and he's a airplane engineer. lollol. Fuel is good. It's an electrical problem. Replaced ignition coil and its not up to specifications still to get it running to diagnose the problems. Other one was cracked on bottom and really bad condition. Replaced ECM that didn't help either/Other ECM works still (swapped them multiple times). Was told to try and sell it by my hired military mechanic. Just gonna make a down payment on a Jeep at dealer cost from my discount.
  6. I cleaned all the relays and tested most to be working, and all fuses are working. Mine would restart when hot and the battery light was on. When its cold starting even in +20C weather it won't run more than 2-6 seconds.
  7. I bought a 1986 Peugeot 505 S (Late 1985 chassis) and I can't get it to idle. Cleaned all grounds and connections, changed most light bulbs, checked crank sensor and few other sensors, checked relays, checked fuses, checked auxiliary air valve, tightened all hoses and checked for leaks, cleaned air system, checked distribution rotor by taking it entirely apart, looked at two spark plugs, checked vacuum systems, checked fuel system (replaced fuel pump and filter even). Replaced ECM with a 0280 800 056 recommended by RockAuto.com, OE: 0280 800 066 core (swapped both in and out multiple times testing). Engine is good with no white stuff inside the engine. XN6 2.0L Inline 4 Cylinder, RWD, Bosch K-Jet Fuel Injected and 4 speed automatic, Peugeot 505S, Canadian/American version (LHD). Recent Service Here is all the last services performed by me and previous owner. I do not really want to put much more money into this vehicle and rather kinda sell or part now. I don't have mechanical experience. Within 0KM (My work since died) Bosch Fuel Pump with vibration rubber (upgrade) and Fuel Filter (NAPA GOLD) Cleaned Air System and topped up oil level in it.Brand new ignition coil. (DIDN'T CHANGE CONDENSER).Topped up power steering levels.Brand New BatteryECM (OE: 0280800066 core - ECM: 0280800056) - Both are working and swapped both in and out to test it multiple times.Thermo-lining Heat Shield and Sound Absorber Light bulbs and head lamps all changed Detailed and cleaned interior (Power polished, waxed, clay barred, and more). Rubberized Spray entire Undercarriage and Engine Bay areas, and Exhaust Muffler Tip Within Last 1000KM (Previous owner) Alternator Upgraded from 80A from 70A Water Pump Thermostat Belts Oil Pressure Sensor Cooling Fan Switch Head Gasket Valve Cover Gasket Spark Plug Tube Seals Spark Plugs & Wire Oil and Filter Fresh Coolant Valve Timing Engine Timing Idle Set Within the Last 5000KM (Previous owners work) Rebuilt Rear Calipers, New Pads Coolant Thermal-Time Switch and Auxiliary Air Valve New Trunk Lock and Barrel Central Locking Electronics Service Within the Last 10,000KM (Previous owners work) New Distributor Rotor (CAP)Oxygen Sensor Brand New Winter Tires SOLUTION: 91 octane was in it instead of 87 octane. The timing was wrong.
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