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NinaYo401

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About NinaYo401

  • Rank
    Peugeot Enthusiast

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Rhode Island
  • Interests
    12volt Audio

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  1. I’m pretty sure the failure is the hard line. I’m not sure What size the line is, and if it’s a bubble flare, or what. But the hardline going into the rack. the pump supposedly is an M16 x 1.5 output, according to rock auto the hose supposedly 14 mm Female Flare 16x1.5 Male O-Ring I need to identify the high pressure hard line fitting on the rack, and it’s flare. if I could get a hydraulic high pressure hose custom made to length, with the appropriate fittings, Maybe a 90 degree end on the line, could connect direct to the rack, and I could zip tie along where the Speedo cable hangs
  2. Bought a quart of chevron Dex II & 3 compatible ATF at a yard sale, and had it in the trunk, luckily. while making a u-turn today, I heard my power steering groan wildly. I’d been noticing some driveway droplets of ATF, and made note of having a low level. Down 3/4 of a quart today. 3 reservoir refills in, I headed home after the final replenishing, where I cut the belt. Took it for a ride of the car wash without the belt. Steering gets pretty heavy and is difficult on tight turns. i think it’s the high pressure line, possibly, I believe Ive noticed before how the lowest curved line entering the steering rack may be leaking. That’s where my drips are located. if I take the fitting off the rack, and cut the hard line, maybe I could also take the high pressure flex line off the pump, and have a custom hydraulic line made with those ends.
  3. Well, I’m interested if you locate it. I’m in Rhode Island, USA. I think a bra is a neat period correct accessory for a 505
  4. The new cable was easily attached to the transmission using the closest nut to the speedometer drive cable, very simple. I completed the task using ramps. however, I now have a noisy and bouncy speedometer gauge no ATF leaked or was lost from the drive. I used Synthetic multipurpose grease, and cleaned the transmission end with Wd40. Maybe I should use some combination on the speedometer end
  5. I had success replacing the seal. I used grease in the groove before the seal, and soaked it overnight in brake fluid. also, before installing the seal, I cleaned the cylinder with wet sanding paper. The fittings leading into my brake hoses are all gnarly deformed, so I haven’t replaced hoses yet
  6. Do you have a good left driver rear caliper? My parking brake is seized. could probably fit it in a flat rate padded envelope
  7. I ran the new cable from the speedometer into the engine compartment. I tested it with my drill, and the gauge seems to work. I’d really like to change the transmission filter, but the dipstick into the pan is daunting. Can the dipstick be detached from the body and left attached to the pan while dropped? Or is the dipstick simply detached from the sump pan? I haven’t identified the set screw for the speedometer cable yet. It’s a bolt?
  8. I managed to get one to stop leaking! I think the rear parking brake piston being stuck, allowed me to push the piston too deeply. the Seized parking brake is in the driver size. If I could separate the cylinder part from the pad holding sliding part. how do you separate the two pieces of the caliper cylinder & parking brake pad tray? Must be difficult with the parking side extended
  9. How bad was the tank? I’ve run some liqui moly jectron through my system, particularly the warm up regulator injector as much as possible, but leaving it to cold start with the additive. Great results. Had me thinking about your clogged screen. could possibly measure something for you, but I’m down to a 1/4 tank, and have a leaking rear caliper. Guess I possibly pushed them too far. Looking for a passenger rear disc caliper
  10. I’m having rear brake issues. I can’t get my rear caliper to stop leaking. Wasted 3 seals. the ridge for the piston seems greater than the seal. And I’m not sure how I’d hone it cylinder, with that center area for the parking brake. i think I finally got the other caliper, which is from a 504, to stop leaking, with a new seal, but it’s parking brake side of the piston won’t fully collapse enough for both new pads to fit. I’d consider sanding the ridge, so my seal would work, but then I’d create a taper. Had bad luck with the centric brand rebuild kit. The one I got from Brian, made in Spain, seems higher quality
  11. Compressed the piston, put it all back together, and my caliper was leaking. now I’m waiting for a rebuild kit.
  12. The end of the cable looks very similar to the method which the brake hoses clip to the chassis. I’m afraid it’s a clip internally, which would require dropping the pan. Though I do have a new filter and gasket will I loose ATF from the speedo cable drive?
  13. Finally figured out how the cable passes through the firewall, found the cruise control speed sensor, where the two halves of the speedometer cable join. i also pulled out my gauge cluster, and noticed the cable is disconnected, but also seems to not have enough slack to connect, unless it stays in that position, and the cluster is pressed onto it ss a mooring. I guess I’ll attach cable, then fish it through the firewall. the silver end pictured above, connects to the transmission. It’s the connection I’m wondering about. Does anyone have information on the set screw to detach the transmission speedometer cable drive end? I’m hesitant to loosen anything on a transmission
  14. The price was very fair $1200
  15. I’m having an issue with the 504 driver rear disc caliper on my 86 505 Sti.It seems to be dragging, and only the inner pad. Gets hot enough to steam when wet and rim gets hot.I tried to compress the piston without success, and had a difficult time installing pads, so I filed an old pad down, since the outer was worn apart. But the inner seems to drag, outer does’t seem to do much. Parking brake is good.I made a 20 degree angle > but the piston doesn’t move in. It turns slightly with effort. I turned the driver rear counter clockwise. I think I tried clockwise too, but the pad’s tab wouldn’t align, so I returned it straight.I couldn’t figure out how the emergency brake cable would disconnect either, but the caliper bracket seemed to move much easier on the passenger side 505 caliper, with much more clearance, though both new c-tek pads wouldn’t fit. The 504 caliper seems to be attached with hex head bolts? Anyone know which size key? I would be interested in a complete 505 caliper, for the driver rear 11710002 is the brake hardware kit’s part number to the specific caliper I’m looking for. I bent the pad retaining fork on my good 505 caliper while prying it out. I don’t think that side is super happy either. But at least it’s not getting hot.
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