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About NinaYo401

  • Rank
    Peugeot Enthusiast

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  • Location
    Rhode Island
  • Interests
    12volt Audio

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  1. I used their website to figure out my in tank fuel pump. Then after purchasing a random one that matched the description, I was excited when it arrived being the exact one they sold, which was out of stock. I also compared their key blanks to eBay. must be tough for these sorts of speciality companies these days.
  2. If my current speedo end looks like the new one pictured, I could possibly use bailing wire between the transmission end of the new cable to it and pull through the firewall with the old one. Im wondering if I should remove the knee bolster to give myself some working room. While in there, maybe I could disconnect the central locking relay. And maybe ditch the cruise control lever.
  3. Here are some photos of the replacement cable I have. It appears different than the speed sensor end on my current cable, system I’m assuming it’s possibly a single piece. Though it isn’t extremely long, it is over 5 feet. it doesn’t appear threaded on the plastic end. that Shuttlecock may be difficult to pass through the firewall grommet, Maybe it’s removable?
  4. My volvo is in the shop. Power steering leak. I’d recommend fluid film or some something like por15 or zinc inhibitor on those hard lines. I’ve been taking care of the steering coupler, but that hidden area is sensitive on the p2 chassis. I’d crack the master cylinder loose from the booster to check the seals, but I should probably hod off till my volvo is back. i need a caliper reset tool before I mess with the brakes. And I should try to locate a spare plastic brake reservoir, if I need to replace my master cylinder
  5. I’m thinking the booster to intake vacuum line has brake fluid on the clamps. I’ll check in the morning, if it isn’t raining. Does that mean the booster or master or both? And if replacing the master. I’m totally afraid of separating my 33 year old plastic reservoir from the MC
  6. Had my front end aligned today, $44 Groupon. Seems pretty good. They mentioned the back being slightly out, but said it was unadjustable. Seems pretty good. funny quote, “frame rot isn’t that bad” however, the vanishing brake fluid has me worried. It doesn’t seem like my driver rear brake is doing very much. is there a replaceable one way valve or something I should check? There doesn’t seem to be any fluid on the firewall or that I’ve noticed under the dash. My volvo however, is dripping at the steering rack hardlines, which already has a braze repair. So, I’m relying on the 505 a bit. I wonder if my worn LCAs are stressing the volvo’s rack, or if the person who fixed my exhaust leak leaned on the brazed line. It’s a zf push in connection, with a crack on the apex of the line’s sharp bend
  7. Changed an outter tie rod, counter threads and measured, but my steering wheel is now a bit off center. I realized the whole inner rod was spinning when tightening the lock nut, but it doesn’t seem to far from where it was. inner rod was a little floppy, but not jiggling or anything. maybe I should invest in an alignment sooner than I was hoping to. Passenger steering boot is torn from it’s spring clip, maybe I can pinch it a little further forward and pull it tighter with a zip tie.
  8. I was somewhat under the car today. took a look at the speedo cable and my replacement. The speed sensor at the firewall. I should try to connect my new cable there, before messing with taking the dash apart. if I bypass the speed sensor, will anything be affected? Or just the cruise control?
  9. Thanks again Rabin. I’ve been treating the tie rod with penetration oil. Hopefully it’s a smooth job. Looking at my rust spots. Might take the rust off, use a combination of inhibitor and zinc primer, then tall to my local custom welding shop. im going to tackle the speedo cable and transmission filter this summer. I would like to know the trans sump torque specs. might just get a sheet of magnet for the sunroof, during heavy rain. But welding is taking a back seat to mechanical tinkering
  10. So I have a window motor to install, from a driver door, which I hope fits my passenger front, and installs without pulling the regulator. My driver wheel bolts were loose and knocking for about a mile a month ago, before I stopped and wrenched them. Seems I’ve discovered my outter tie rod on that side has some vertical play. whats the torque spec of the tie rod to the knuckle? I was thinking of trying 41ft/lb, if I can’t find it in my Haynes Apparently the 80lb/ft was a bit lean for the wheel nuts.
  11. My passenger window motor was running super slow, then was stopping near the top without some help, so i disconnected it's switch, but now I'm getting no action from it. I have a spare driver side motor, which I'm hoping is the same for the passenger side. I just hope its as simple ass 3 bolts and a swap to the new motor. Anyone experienced?
  12. 1983 Ford Fairmont? Black with red interior. Owned by a coworker of mine. 50k miles. Any value?
  13. Can I replace a front window motor, without removing the regulator? Series 2 505
  14. Pretty sweet outing. All of my local junk yards have been cleaned up. I’m jealous.
  15. New pump is on. Seems quiet enough. Broke the fuel line between the pump and accumulator, so I had a new nylon line fitted to the two gnarled banjo fittings. Skipped the fuel filter, since what poured out of the pump was clear as a crystal. Of course the new crush washers didn’t fit, and I have no gas to anneal, so I reused the old washers. Had a drip from the accumulator, so I reefed on the that 19mm which seemed to have done the trick. front tires are wearing uneven, yet they’re unmatched, and one says inside on the outside. I rotated the left to right once already, and that seems to be what they’re asking for again. New matched pair on the rear. been loosing a litttle off the level of my brake master reservior. But no signs of a leak. Maybe the pads are wearing quickly. I’ll get photos when I poke around the car this weekend. Might change the oil.
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