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ofArc

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About ofArc

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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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    Northern Virginia

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  1. Western Hemispheres has been off and on for me too. When the site has been down before, it typically came back within a few days. Hopefully it's just web hosting issues, I was planning on buying a few pieces for my engine rehabilitation.
  2. Small world! Looking back, I would describe the description in the ad as 'charitable', but it is a project car after all. The maroon V6 I found was at a yard in Maryland ran by the LKQ group. They have five different yards in Maryland, all around Baltimore. All of their inventory is available online, and you can set up alerts for when a certain model arrives. However, all five yards have a high turnover. That V6 was gone the week after I went in November, and I haven't seen another since. Recently, I heard about a place called Leon's Auto Parts about 1.5 hours south of DC. They've apparently got a small reputation in the vintage Mopar community as a place that has almost any car that you can think of dating back to the 30's. I figured that, if there was any place outside of Peugeot Holm that had a 505, it would be Leon's. As it turns out, Leon's actually has three 505s. One is a wagon, and two are sedans. They also had, among other cars, a 504, a Renault 10, 5+ Renault Fuegos, at least 2 LeCars, and every Renault-AMC product that managed to crawl its way out of Kenosha. The junkyard itself spans over 100 acres, and I can't imagine the number of cars out there. Here are the sedans. The silver one kissed a telephone pole sometime in its life. I swear there's a wagon back there somewhere! The 505 minus 1. I found some trim pieces that I was missing, along with some switch blanks for when I switch to a single-piece speedometer cable and deactivate the cruise control. I was blown away by the quantity and the selection of cars. There's not too many places where a Daihatsu Charade and a Lancia Beta sedan are within a few steps of each other. On the way down, we also saw this 505 parked on the side of the road. Without a doubt, the nicest one we saw all day!
  3. Was that your car in the Coastal Range Rally? I saw some pictures online, and I was surprised to see some French representation! Here's the article I saw the pictures in. I wish we had something like that on the east coast, but I don't think we have the sun (or the scenery).
  4. Here's a picture of an ATE caliper: ATEs have the cross-shaped hardware that you can see inside of the caliper above. I can't find any pictures of a Bendix caliper, but I know they have the word 'Bendix' cast into the metal of the caliper itself. My '87 STI has Bendix calipers, but I don't know when the changeover was.
  5. Wow, I'm excited to see more! The best 505 that never was... Did you experience any issues changing the engine from transverse to longitudinal?
  6. The sun is coming out and parts are coming in! I'm waiting on a few more things to arrive, and then I'll be able to start work on the brakes. I'm holding off on finding new rear calipers for now, I want to see if simply adjusting the handbrake fixes the problem first. I was underneath the hood today, and noticed four empty bolt holes on the side of the engine head (pictured). The exhaust manifold is bolted directly below. Does anybody know what, if anything, is supposed to be attached here? Thanks
  7. Today, PSA Group announced that Peugeot will lead their return to the U.S. market. According to a Peugeot spokesperson, “Even though Peugeot left in 1991 ... the awareness of the brand and the opinion of the brand are still strong ... so, we have a strong starting point with which to start the discussion with consumers.” Article here, on Automotive News: https://www.autonews.com/automakers-suppliers/peugeot-brand-will-lead-psas-return-us Another interesting detail from the same spokesperson: “There’s over 1,500 Peugeots still registered and running in the U.S. ... Ironically, the highest concentration is in Alabama.” An exclusive club, for sure! I doubt that modern Peugeot (Twogeot? Newgeot?) will provide any help with finding parts, though.
  8. Thanks for the oil tip, that's what I went with and it shifts like a dream now. When I drained the old oil, only about 1/3 of what there should have been came out. Certainly explained the clunky shifting. While I was underneath the car, I noticed several different colors of leaks. Most concerning was the amount of oil that was present. The car wasn't low on oil when I checked the dipstick, but it was concerning nonetheless. Luckily, a friend of mine knew of an old Peugeot dealer mechanic that works at a Volvo/Saab shop near me. I took the car in for an inspection, and to quote the mechanic, "it's not great, but you could have bought worse." There's a whole bunch of smaller issues that I can worry about later, but the main concerns boil down to three areas: the braking system, the water pump, and the engine seals. At least the front crank seal needs replacement, as the timing belt is covered in oil. In the rear, either the rear main seal or the head gasket is bad. There's no coolant in the oil that I can tell, but there's no way to be sure. The water pump is bad, but that's old news by now. Also, the driver's tie rod is bent from what looks like a failed towing attempt. Both the clutch master and slave cylinders are leaky, but I'll get there later. There's not much sense in having a car that you can't stop, so my current concern is the brake system. The biggest problems are the master cylinder and the rear calipers. I've got a new cylinder on the way, and it should be easy enough to replace the old one. The bigger pain are the rear calipers. Both of them are seized, necessitating new pads, rotors, and a dual caliper replacement/rebuild. I can find rear caliper seal sets, but I'm unable to source either new rear pistons or complete caliper assemblies. Depending how bad the piston is corroded, this could be an issue. I'll keep looking, and hopefully something will pop up. I'll shoot an email to some of the parts suppliers listed on the forum, too. Replacing the rotors also looks to be a pain, considering I'll have to take out the complete hub assembly to get them off. It's certainly doable though, so once parts arrive and the weather warms up I'll begin. At the very least, the transmission doesn't leak oil any more, so that's cool. In the mean time, it's back under the car cover for some hibernation. Certainly a long post with not much in terms of progress, but that's how all projects start. If anybody knows any tips or tricks, I'd be more than happy to hear them.
  9. While I was replacing the rod yesterday, I noticed some oil residue around the transmission drain plug. I'm concerned about the oil level being low inside the housing, so I'm going to change it out with some new 10w/40. Does anybody know of a drain plug gasket that fits? Autozone says that Needa 653336 would fit, but it just seems like a universal set of gaskets.
  10. I was driving the other day when the feel of gearshift went from loose to nonexistent. At the next stop light, I realized the transmission was stuck in third, despite the position of gear lever. I limped the car a few miles home in third, and went underneath to source the problem. As I guessed, the shift rod came loose from its mount. The bushings on both ends of the rod are completely gone. I can find two or three other examples of 505s getting stuck in third online. Looks like when the transmission is in third gear, the rod reaches its highest diagonal angle, making it likely to fall out. I ordered a new old stock rod online, and it'll be here in a few days. Of all the things that could cripple my car, I can't complain about a tiny, easily-accessible rod.
  11. I did spend some time on Craigslist, but none of the listings were the right size. Bill, I'll have to see if there's any vocational programs like that near me. Something like that may be helpful in the future if I ever decide to get winter tires. Sanding the rust off the rotors is a good idea. Since the rotors themselves have a decent bit of life left, I'll hit them with a coat of paint when I have them off. That should keep rust off the rotor hat, and make the whole thing a little more presentable. Talking about brakes, I've tracked down the source of my brake fluid leak. The seal between the fluid reservoir and the master cylinder isn't water (fluid?) tight, causing a slow trickle. I'm not sure if it's an issue with the rubber washer/o-ring, or if it's a master cylinder problem. I could hit the ring with a coat of RTV and see what happens, but we'll save the homebrew fixes for things that won't kill me if they fail! Looks like the Kiekert fobs take 2x CR1/3N batteries. With the batteries in, I can see the fob working, but the car doesn't pick up the signal. A little disappointing, but not too big of an issue. I'll fix it when I have nothing better to correct. So it may be a while... I also got a set of new shifter bushings off of eBay. They're 3D printed from some combination of wonderplastic, so they shouldn't fall out like (I think) the old ones did. I've still got to get underneath the car to check out the actual situation with the shift rods, but the bushings were cheap enough that I figured I may as well hope for the best. If anyone else is looking for better bushings, they were sold by seller pyramidpeugeot. I don't know if there's any left, but I'd imagine more will eventually be made. I can't speak to their quality as they're not in the car yet, but they've got a leg up on the old ones as they exist while the current ones, well, don't. I've ordered the new water pump, too. Since the current one seems to be working for the time being, I may delay that project until things warm up a bit outside. I'll be learning soon if my heater works or not...
  12. I think most old french cars (505s included) came with a recessed 8mm square hole for the oil plug. They're pretty cheap on eBay (free shipping!), but I doubt Jiffy Lube would have one on hand.
  13. Depending on how bad the tires are, I'd recommend checking the air pressure every now and then. One of my old dry-rotted ones would lose 10 psi every 3 days or so. But, as long as rubber isn't already coming off in chunks, they should be OK to drive on. Good luck on the trip!
  14. I took apart the fob, and it's definitely a Kiekert! You can see the markings on the circuit board in the second picture. Here are some pictures of the inside, if anyone is curious:
  15. I put on a set of BFG Advantage T/A Sports, a pretty middle-of-the-road tire. They're rated to go 130 mph/209 kph, which I don't intend on testing. For a car that made 120 hp from the factory 31 years ago, they should be more than enough. Thank you for the pressure advice everyone, I'll keep them at 35 psi for now. Good call on checking out the caliper! I took a sharpie and scribbled on the rotor before I went for a short drive. It was gone when I came back, so the caliper is clasping the rotor. The car had sat for a while before I bought it, and I haven't been driving it too much, so I think it's just residual rust. Here's a picture of the fob. It might be the later Kiekert kind, but I don't see any markings either inside or outside the casing.
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