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germsteel

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About germsteel

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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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  1. Thanks! All fixed, wire 7 does go to the middle spade terminal (like in your photo, nice); I found out I have a Remy 13059 which is now manufactured by: https://www.bbbind.com/remy/ Found this really nice explanation page: Trouble shooting ignition warning light The original alternator was 570566 Paris-Rhone. My RF filter has one female lead and it says FACON Made in France on it. Topped up coolant and took the old gal for a brisk spin. Cheers
  2. My charge light always stays on. So I think I have attached wire 7A (thin brown wire) to the earth nut on the body of the alternator. There's a single wire (RF filter) going into the plug for the battery light EXC I'll look again to see if I can find the + on the regulator. Does that sound right? A photo would be great! Thanks much, Charging (N9TE and XN6 XD3T ZDJL ZN3J) pg. C2.712 https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachments/peugeot-forum/31359d1342345696-505-504-alternator-switch-505-alternator.jpg
  3. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3194-505t-wagon-alternator-trouble/ I need this same info. '86 turbo gas N9TE 505 alternator I changed my oil filter and then found there was a thin brown wire dangling down. Car starts fine but the battery charge light stays on. Voltmeter at battery shows no charging from alternator. On the back of the alternator there is a thick brown wire with a lug that's secured to the top post with a nut; there is a black plastic plug in the middle with a black wire that connects to a RF filter? which goes to the post at the bottom (or opposite the post where the thick brown wire goes in). So I attached the small brown wire to the same bottom post that the RF filter bracket is attached to but the battery charge light in the dash still says on and no juice going to the battery. Some clues would be appreciated. (I know this is a 4 yr. old thread) Thanks guys!
  4. I need this same info. '86 turbo gas N9TE 505 alternator I changed my oil filter and then found there was a thin brown wire dangling down. Car starts fine but the battery charge light stays on. Voltmeter at battery shows no charging from alternator. On the back of the alternator there is a thick brown wire with a lug that's secured to the top post with a nut; there is a black plastic plug in the middle with a black wire that connects to a RF filter? which goes to the post at the bottom (or opposite the post where the thick brown wire goes in). So I attached the small brown wire to the same bottom post that the RF filter bracket is attached to but the battery charge light in the dash still says on and no juice going to the battery. Some clues would be appreciated. (I know this is a 4 yr. old thread) Thanks guys!
  5. Hello fellow survivors! On car talk ep #1532 there was a caller from NH? Marc with a 505 Peugeot turbo. Cheers!
  6. Hello all! I have been searching around for days for something like a Maintenance service schedule. Nothing in the files section here or over at the yahoo group. I only have the owners manual and I have never seen that maintenance record book people mention once in a while. So things like at what interval do I need to do a valve adjustment? Does anybody have a handy file with that information? Thanks much in advance. --G. Steel.
  7. Hi Bill, Thanks for the detailed instructions. I assume then the O2 sensor is working its an SG36 Standard Motors 3 wire only 9 months old. The values do change but no matter how much we try we can't get the value to go below 8.55. Before this whole thing started I remember the idle air screw was half way in and lead 22 read 7.6V Now, the idle air screw is almost all the way out. I tested the AFM according to the book and it seemed like it passed. Bad primer fuel pump replaced, main fuel pump and filter replaced, leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator replaced, bad Aux Air Device replaced, O2 sensor replaced, Tachymetric relay replaced, bad NTC engine coolant sensor replaced. I haven't tested the Throttle Position Sensor yet. Engine runs very well now but is still running too rich. Any other tips? Cheers, GS
  8. Hello, How do I test the Oxygen sensor? Is there a test lead towards the back somewhere to get a voltmeter reading, what should the reading be? Thanks in advance, --L ==================== 1986 505 N9TE Turbo Wagon
  9. Happy New Year! 1. Lose pounds 2. Pass CA Smog! The HC (PPM) numbers are 316 and 327 at 15 and 25 miles/hr. The CO numbers are also wacked 12 instead of under 2.0.
  10. Symptoms: Can't get a handle on idle rpm (500 rpm) air screw/maf adj no effectWhite smoke from tail pipeliquid water also drips out of tail pipe when runningruns fine otherwiseoil not coffee milk shake yettiny amounts of oil contaminant in resevoir bottleThe good: water pump < 3 years oldclutch fan works finenew main pump (airtex), in-tank primer pump and fuel filterMAF tested good through rangeidle air device looked ok (freezer test)new air filternew 02 sensorclean gas tank92K milespulls like a champnever overheated or over boostATF dark pink (needs change)I have read all the tribulations that go along with our head gasket and head issues. So what kind of tests are recommended before taking the head off? Will leak down test show if only the gasket needs to be replaced? Is Cometic better than the Meillor set? Any recommended head shop in the San Jose area that can do the testing and head repair (if needed)? Can a non-Peugeot shop do the head gasket service? 1986 505 Turbo gas Wagon N9TE Thanks for the info in advance.
  11. How do you get at the Fuel Pressure Regulator? I can see it but I can't get my hand in there -- is there some secret? Super small hands?
  12. Bill, Did anyone come forward with the right Fuel pressure fitting size, my 505 SW N9TE needs a fuel pressure test too. Cheers,
  13. August: Jump on this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=130150726096
  14. 1/2 off at Pick-n-Pull this labor day weekend (3 days) But no Pugs? --GS Forgot to mention in their California locations
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