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About bill

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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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  1. I have a fine used pair that I pulled and stored. Not rusty.
  2. bill

    505 12hr drive

    You might be okay using the 5/16 square. I have never done that only because I have never had to. Do you have a manual? On jacking, you really have to be careful. There are specific jacking points. Anywhere else risks bending. The round crossmember in the front and the ones toward the front on the rear wheels. At this point, I would jack one wheel at a time and use jackstands along with a wheel chock. I say that because lifting both wheels at the front crossmember risks jack slippage. There should be a slot where the factory jack goes, but it in the way of centering a floor jack. On the brakes, I would address getting the bleeders loose first, as the system will need to be bled. Caution is in order, as they can be easily broken if you are not careful. I heat them up and soak with something like PB blaster being careful where I point the flame. Be sure they are cool, and use an 8mm hex socket and a 1/4 ratchet. Don't force them and be patient. Be careful around rubber brake parts, as any petroleum based lube will not mix at all with the rubber. In fact, it destroys it. A clean new turkey baster is sufficient to get most out of the master. I use Dot 3 and plenty of it, as I like to flush the system completely when doing it. There's a bunch of tips / tricks with working on the calipers and bleeding the system.
  3. bill

    505 12hr drive

    The 5/16 won't work. In a pinch, I have ground down a 3/8 extension from a socket set, and even a pair of trusty channel locks / vise grips. It will work, provided that the previous mechanic didn't over tighten it. I believe Snap On makes an 8mm square, either a socket or a wrench, but that might be special order. There is a dedicated Peugeot wrench (8 and 10mm) that I use that is used on both the oil drain and the differential plugs. On more than one occasion I have encountered overtightened drain plugs from new purchases.
  4. bill

    Fixing my 1987 505 STI

    On the tires, it takes time, so I check back every week or so. There is a little bit of wiggle room on sizes, and you nave to be careful about mixing sizes. Same size on axles, especially in the rear, as the spider gears are not happy if you don't. All four the same is optimal. You can check the dates on the tires. The last four digits of the serial number tell you that. I keep that under seven years or so. I once found a set of MXV4's that came mounted on Toyota wheels. I sold the wheels separately essentially making the tires free. The original owner had bought some fancy wheels. The fluid leak sure sounds like the master cylinder. I lean toward those that are made in Italy, as it is not a place to try and save a few bucks. Caution when replacing is in order to try and not bend the lines, as the fine thread fittings bolting back up can be a witch with B if you don't. We have a great bleeding technique that I learned a while back from the boys here. They call the Keikert a PLIP. The OEM ones have a limited range. Ebay has newer ones that connect into the existing wires, and have a better range. I think that they are about 20 bucks or so, but you have to know where to look.
  5. bill

    Fixing my 1987 505 STI

    Nowadays I scan Craigslist for 15 inch used Michelin’s. More than once I have been delighted. Sometimes they are attached to alloy wheels from something that can be sold to offset. The local vocational high school near me has an auto tech program that offers mounting and balancing for a whopping $3 a pop. i just take in loose wheels, no muss or fuss.
  6. I have been getting a surprising number of compliments from folks when they see my 505, which is a delight.. There has been a lot of young people who are curious. I just had one the other day, and he said that he has only seen them in video games. Well, I got curious, and googlemooglied it. Yup, there's a site for that sort of thing: Pages and pages. Lots of rally cars, a handful of 505s. http://www.igcd.net/vehicles.php?make=Peugeot Now I have to get an xbox or whatever it takes..
  7. I have an 86 turbo. I bought it for $500 nine years ago, and that included a 60 mile delivery to my door. I originally bought it for parts. it was rough around the edges, and the engine was toast.. Six years ago, I swapped out the engine, and put her back on the road. She had been setting for 18 years in a garage. Anyway, I am still driving it (my beloved beater). Recently, the power steering rack had a slow leak of fluid that turned into a torrent. Well now. I did a snippy-snippy on the P/S belt. I gotta say, things are going swimmingly, as while I don't have power steering anymore, I gained a genuine feel of the wheel, especially at highway speed. A few years ago, I applied some grease to the rack and pinion gears (under the steering rack boot), so the resistance is reasonably firm; and, um, nothing that I can't handle. As a side benefit, my arms get a workout whenever I drive it. It is a whole lot more fun than an exercise machine! -Bill
  8. I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. I remember someone saying that the n9 has an iron block with an aluminum head. The concern was the different rates of expansion between the two metals. i remember reading the owner’s manual cover to cover from my first (83 505 STI), and it said to never race a cold engine. The turbos have an oil temperature gauge, and it does take considerable time / miles for it to get up to temp. i see way too many folks jump in the car and do burn outs and such. Dumb. Bill
  9. bill

    Looking for 505 floor mats with logo

    I was going to make a crack by asking what color? A few years ago I bought a new old stock set still in the plastic. The foam backing doesn't age well, so it had to be scraped off. They are fine that way. My guess it that any still in the wild will have the same issue. I suppose that I could make a template of my set (mine are keepers) perhaps from a bed sheet or something. Then someone would have to find someone with a heavy duty industrial sewing machine make them up. That way you can pick the color and decide how far you want to go as far as material quality. I remember buying a new OEM set from the dealer about 1990 when the dealers were discounting all accessories at 50% off. The blue set I opted for faded out astonishingly quickly. Dark gray would have been a better choice. Jacket patches are out there as a possible option for the logo.
  10. Well, they are DIN mount, if that helps.
  11. Did they use the same Alpine units as the 505? I have extra ones in a box. They all still worked over the years, but don't get better with age. The price of shipping would be sufficient, as I don't see ever needing / using them. My current approach is using Alpines that have the ipod port and a cd. Bill
  12. I have an extra N9TE radiator. It was good when pulled. Not sure on how much, as I am reticent to sell stuff that I might need down the road. I am still running with N9TE's, but sometimes I ask myself, how many do I need? I have no idea on the price given the rarity factor. I have always been a big proponent of regular flushes of new coolant (every two years).
  13. It is located next to the fuel pump. Located outside under the rear (driver's side) seat. You might want to do the fuel filter as well if it hasn't been changed in a while. You may want to have a few extra little rubber hangers on hand in case you need them (probably will). Brass washers are something else to get.
  14. It sure sounds like a fuel accumulator. Common thing.
  15. bill

    FREE Ignition switch and door lock set for 505

    "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese"' Bill