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About bill

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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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  1. Parting out 86 turbo sedan blue interior. Auto, and I do have a BA-10 from another car that I pulled and stored about 10 years. Let me know if you need anything. Located in Ohio. Bill
  2. Well, I quit driving it about a year ago after I went to change the differential fluid and very little came out. I recently looked at again with the intention of fixing. (extra car). I figure about half of the oil remains in the pumpkin. I have brass bits in the oil. Some bearing noise.
  3. Looking for a rear axle for a 505 wagon. I am in Ohio. Bill
  4. I have them if you still need them.
  5. There is a thread on the topic over at Yahoo Groups Peugeot-L: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/peugeot-L/conversations/messages/92474
  6. This is a neat reference source on Peugeots: http://www.angelfire.com/tn/pugdatabase/ Lots of useful information.
  7. As far as the speedometer, a garden-variety Garmin GPS will tell you the speed. Online, older ones go for a song.
  8. A long time ago I jacked up the car at the pumpkin, and it disturbed the old compensator valve, which started leaking.
  9. I have a fine used pair that I pulled and stored. Not rusty.
  10. You might be okay using the 5/16 square. I have never done that only because I have never had to. Do you have a manual? On jacking, you really have to be careful. There are specific jacking points. Anywhere else risks bending. The round crossmember in the front and the ones toward the front on the rear wheels. At this point, I would jack one wheel at a time and use jackstands along with a wheel chock. I say that because lifting both wheels at the front crossmember risks jack slippage. There should be a slot where the factory jack goes, but it in the way of centering a floor jack. On the brakes, I would address getting the bleeders loose first, as the system will need to be bled. Caution is in order, as they can be easily broken if you are not careful. I heat them up and soak with something like PB blaster being careful where I point the flame. Be sure they are cool, and use an 8mm hex socket and a 1/4 ratchet. Don't force them and be patient. Be careful around rubber brake parts, as any petroleum based lube will not mix at all with the rubber. In fact, it destroys it. A clean new turkey baster is sufficient to get most out of the master. I use Dot 3 and plenty of it, as I like to flush the system completely when doing it. There's a bunch of tips / tricks with working on the calipers and bleeding the system.
  11. The 5/16 won't work. In a pinch, I have ground down a 3/8 extension from a socket set, and even a pair of trusty channel locks / vise grips. It will work, provided that the previous mechanic didn't over tighten it. I believe Snap On makes an 8mm square, either a socket or a wrench, but that might be special order. There is a dedicated Peugeot wrench (8 and 10mm) that I use that is used on both the oil drain and the differential plugs. On more than one occasion I have encountered overtightened drain plugs from new purchases.
  12. On the tires, it takes time, so I check back every week or so. There is a little bit of wiggle room on sizes, and you nave to be careful about mixing sizes. Same size on axles, especially in the rear, as the spider gears are not happy if you don't. All four the same is optimal. You can check the dates on the tires. The last four digits of the serial number tell you that. I keep that under seven years or so. I once found a set of MXV4's that came mounted on Toyota wheels. I sold the wheels separately essentially making the tires free. The original owner had bought some fancy wheels. The fluid leak sure sounds like the master cylinder. I lean toward those that are made in Italy, as it is not a place to try and save a few bucks. Caution when replacing is in order to try and not bend the lines, as the fine thread fittings bolting back up can be a witch with B if you don't. We have a great bleeding technique that I learned a while back from the boys here. They call the Keikert a PLIP. The OEM ones have a limited range. Ebay has newer ones that connect into the existing wires, and have a better range. I think that they are about 20 bucks or so, but you have to know where to look.
  13. Nowadays I scan Craigslist for 15 inch used Michelin’s. More than once I have been delighted. Sometimes they are attached to alloy wheels from something that can be sold to offset. The local vocational high school near me has an auto tech program that offers mounting and balancing for a whopping $3 a pop. i just take in loose wheels, no muss or fuss.
  14. I have been getting a surprising number of compliments from folks when they see my 505, which is a delight.. There has been a lot of young people who are curious. I just had one the other day, and he said that he has only seen them in video games. Well, I got curious, and googlemooglied it. Yup, there's a site for that sort of thing: Pages and pages. Lots of rally cars, a handful of 505s. http://www.igcd.net/vehicles.php?make=Peugeot Now I have to get an xbox or whatever it takes..
  15. I have an 86 turbo. I bought it for $500 nine years ago, and that included a 60 mile delivery to my door. I originally bought it for parts. it was rough around the edges, and the engine was toast.. Six years ago, I swapped out the engine, and put her back on the road. She had been setting for 18 years in a garage. Anyway, I am still driving it (my beloved beater). Recently, the power steering rack had a slow leak of fluid that turned into a torrent. Well now. I did a snippy-snippy on the P/S belt. I gotta say, things are going swimmingly, as while I don't have power steering anymore, I gained a genuine feel of the wheel, especially at highway speed. A few years ago, I applied some grease to the rack and pinion gears (under the steering rack boot), so the resistance is reasonably firm; and, um, nothing that I can't handle. As a side benefit, my arms get a workout whenever I drive it. It is a whole lot more fun than an exercise machine! -Bill
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