Jump to content

andrethx

Admin
  • Content Count

    1,784
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by andrethx

  1. so i'm looking into how to add rear grease fittings to the 405 to extend the life of the rear axle bearings (a not-uncommon failure point for the 405), and i wanted to determine where the fittings should be installed. i was unable to find any pictures of the mod being done on the 405, but i *did* find a discussion of this mod on a french car forum as it relates to the citroen xsara (similar rear suspension to the 405). one of the posters added this pic to show where the fittings should be added: so on the 405, would the fittings be placed as follows: with care being taken to mount the fittings such that they were accessible from below, etc.? would love to hear feedback on this topic... andré
  2. Rabin -- just re-read this reply post of yours. When I read d00zer's original post, I assumed he was changing the rotors as well as the calipers not just for additional braking performance, but to get the different wheel bolt pattern of the Volvo (to access the aftermarket wheel selection in 5x108 pcd) -- that's why I had all that stuff in my original question about wheel bolt patterns. If you changed the rotors, you'd get the different wheel bolt pattern. I understand now that his brake mods are all about getting better calipers. My understanding is, to get recently-sized aftermarket wheels for the 505s (16", 17", 18"), since nobody makes wheels for 4x140 pcd, you've got to do something about the wheel bolt pattern -- adapters, modifying pug rotors or changing out the rotors. I read your earlier posts about your effort to get high-performance brakes with a different wheel bolt pattern, and I was left with the impression that changing out the rotors (for 944 or BMW units or whatever) was complicated, possibly to the point of it not being worth it. I was just wondering how using Volvo parts stacked up against that... thanks, andre
  3. i am really enjoying my new (to me) 405 mi16; one of the less desirable traits of the car, however, is its behavior on the freeway. i've noticed that, at 70 mph (112 kph), the engine is turning at 3,000 rpms. this is not a problem for the engine -- it has a 7,000 rpm redline -- but it can get a bit buzzy and tiresome after a while. i did some research to see if there was a way to swap a 6-speed transmission into this car to get a lower final gear for long trips. the short answer is, no. the long answer is, you can swap the 6-speed in but you won't get a lower final gear. my car has the be3/5 manual transmission (boîte vitesse manuelle); the "5" indicates that is is a 5-speed. it looks like this: the 6 series cars -- the 206, 306, etc. -- came with six-speed be3 transmissions in some configurations (be3/6). the case is very similar for the two versions of the transmission, and i thought, why not swap in a 6-speed transmission? it should be noted -- the early 90s front-wheel drive peugeots are a complete eco-system, just like the 504/604/505 models are. in the UK and europe, engine and/or transmission swaps between these cars (and citroëns of the same vintage) are common. when i researched this swap, i found out that it was possible but not helpful. specifically, Q. Can I fit a 6 speed box from a 306 GTi6 or are there any other options for "leveling" out the torque from the MI16, when doing about 100mph its reving at nearly 5K. A. Personally don't see a problem with this - the engine revs to 7500 so it's not under strain at 5k and the closer ratios are much better for A&B road work which is what the car is made for. Sounds like you have the 1.6 box though - you could swap to 1.9 which has longer gears. Don't forget the 6 speed isn't designed for a longer motorway gear, it just has another gear in the middle for even closer ratios!! You also need to be aware that you will lose some steering lock in the 205 as the GTi6 box has a longer final drive housing. in the UK -- where this reference comes from -- A & B roads are highways and local routes, respectively, as opposed to M roads, which are limited-access freeways/interstates in US parlance (which is what i'm referring to). so there it ends. i thought i'd post this in case anyone else had the same idea. so, 405 mi16 -- grand tourer, no; canyon carver, yes. andré
  4. from the UK site 205gtidrivers.com, this guy took an old 405 4x4 and converted it into a track car. because it's expensive to make the 4-wheel drive systems on these cars track-ready (apparently, they're somewhat fragile), the owner replaced the 4wd components with mitsubishi evo iv parts. the thread is not complete but it's long with lots of pictures, an interesting read. andré
  5. andrethx

    15" Rims Wanted

    welcome jmlabez, fuel senders for US 505s are difficult to find, since the fuel tank (and thus the sender) for US/Canada sedan models were unique. NOS senders are pretty much gone at this point, your best bet is to check with one of the parts guys in our vendor section for good-condition used. eventually, 505 owners are probably going to have to adapt something from another car or from a universal part. where are you in SoCal? I'm in west LA. you could check with Ukit in El Monte, he usually has wheels to sell. 642-442-3733. he may also have a fuel sender. andre
  6. andrethx

    Lost turn indicators

    here are the three pages from the "grounds" section of the manual: there isn't anything else that i can see in the manual that gives any explanation of the syntax (i.e., format) used for the names of the ground points. your suggestion that "H" stands for Habitacle (passenger compartment) could be correct because while HM3 is used mostly for the tail lights (feux arrières), it does ground one of the interior dome lights (lampe lecture); also, the other HM* grounds (e.g., HM5, HM7) are used to ground many interior electrical accessories. i don't know where the rear ground points (prise de masse) are on the 604, but i doubt they are in the interior, they are most likely in the trunk (boot/coffre) as you suggest, but maybe the "H" in the name refers to the function and not the location...just a guess... andré
  7. andrethx

    Lost turn indicators

    the 604 manual i have doesn't have individual diagrams for the 1982 but it does have the 1983s, which i assume are similar. here's the diagram for the turn signals, sorry for the shadows: unlike the 505 and 405 manuals that i've seen, the 604 manual doesn't have a separate table listing the location of the individual electrical components. the master schematic for these cars (too big to post, sorry) is only loosely "geographic," but it shows the flasher unit in the same general area as the dashboard instruments and switches; so my guess would be in the passenger compartment, behind or under the dash somewhere. the wire numbers are probably the same for your car, so worst-case-scenario, you could always trace the numbered wires shown here. it's probably a good idea to clean your rear ground trees while you're at it... andre
  8. andrethx

    91 405 Mi16 build thread

    i put the rear deck back in place recently: and i managed to get the rear deck brake light back together with an LED bulb inside; i had to switch the wires because the polarity was wrong for the LED bulb. i got a second rear deck brake light from ukit but it was also broken. between the two lights, i managed to get enough pieces together for one complete light but i had to glue it shut with the bulb inside. i re-installed the light but the results were disappointing -- only the left side of the fixture lit up, even though there are no obstructions inside the fixture that would cause this...i'm thinking that the philips bulb i used (you can see a picture of it, upthread) is oriented such that the light is not evenly cast inside the fixture...the solution to this is to use a different type of LED bulb, the type with LEDs festooned around the entire outside of the bulb -- something like this: however, my fixture is glued shut so i'll have to break it open or find another fixture (that'll teach me not to bench test, i guess). but at least for now i have a working rear deck brake light, and the fixture looks correct: over the last few weeks, i have been working on the rear speakers on and off. i returned the pioneer speakers and got a pair of infinity 6.5" speakers; they look like this: these speakers had the lowest "above-deck" height of any coaxial speakers i could find...component speakers have woofer/midrange would fit even better, but that would have required me to make new holes in the rear deck for the tweeters and i want to stick with the stock appearance. to make these fit, i had to modify the stock speaker mounting "basket" by making an inside "lip" by using my dremel tool. the first one came out pretty good, the second one was even better. i've got a little more work to do on the wiring, then i'll mount them in the car and move on to the next thing.
  9. welcome to my new build thread! i'm still excited to have my new (to me) car, a 1991 Peugeot 405 Mi16. It needs some attention in various areas, but overall it's in good shape. one of the best things about it is its cosmetics -- it looks pretty good as the paint is in decent shape (unlike my previous 505). the first step was to give the car a basic washing. i also vacuumed out the interior and wiped everything down but it's going to need a lot more than that going forward. i took a look at the engine, it's fairly greasy and dirty so i'll steam clean it this weekend (if i can get to it). there's also a hose with tape on it that needs attention: while i had the hood open, i tried to fix the driver's side headlight -- it kind of stuck out at the bottom. it turns out that the bottom clip on that light was undone, and the only way to re-fasten it is to remove the bumper. i'll try to get to that this weekend as well. you can see a bit of overspray on the front turn signal in this photo -- the car has obviously been repainted in the past but it doesn't look too bad. i'll be working on removing the overspray here and elsewhere as time goes on. the two top issues with the car are the brakes and the shifting. the brakes need new pads and a fluid flush and the shifter is really loose...it also grinds when i shift into second if the revs are about 1.5k or so. i did some online research into this latter issue and there seem to be three frequent culprits: 1) worn shift linkage 2) worn mounts 3) worn synchros (worst-case scenario) i lifted the car up and checked the shift linkage, it was filthy but the shift levers were firmly attached so i don't think that's the problem. i ordered two new levers anyway. even if the problem ultimately ends up being the transmission, i've read that a fluid flush and additives can ameliorate the problem and lessen the need for an immediate transmission rebuild so i'll be looking at that. i am also working on sourcing a complete set of mounts for the engine/drivetrain. even if that's not causing the shift problem, i'm sure the worn mounts are not helping things. more to come. andré
  10. andrethx

    What did you do today?

    aside from being busier at work these days (and the usual family obligations), i gotta say that the main reason i haven't been able to spend as much time working on my 405 as i would like is my passat. i got this car with the idea that i'd give it to my son when he got his driver's license (he's got a learner's permit now) and it's a good car, but there is always some little thing wrong with it. this car has a check engine light on 50% of the time, and it's always something minor. a couple of months ago, i had a check engine light when it was time to get the car smogged (emissions tested) and it took me a few weeks to get it straightened out and through inspection. i also got a new stereo head unit for this car with bluetooth and navigation as well as inputs for a backup camera. as part of the prep for that upcoming installation, i changed out the original antenna for an OE gps/radio antenna a couple of days ago.
  11. andrethx

    1966 404 Coupé Injection Restoration

    looks beautiful, mike!
  12. andrethx

    1982 604 TD

    it really is a beautiful injection pump.
  13. andrethx

    91 405 Mi16 build thread

    new battery. this is the unit that the battery company specifies for my car but the hold-down bracket doesn't quite fit. i will probably add a bit of L-shaped rubber to each side to make the hold-down fit snugly
  14. andrethx

    91 405 Mi16 build thread

    got my battery tray back from the powder coaters (#savospec ), came out pretty nice. they did a good job of masking off the threaded parts the battery doesn't seem to be holding charge very well these days so i'll be replacing it soon. i've also got some new wiring on order, more on that later. with the rear deck panel out, i lubricated the trunk hinges with white lithium grease (thanks for the tip, goce ) i got some speakers, but they don't fit into the factory grill/speaker mount setup, so i'm sending them back for something else. i think i mentioned that my rear deck brake light was broken -- i got another one, but it is also broken. my "original" light was basically glued together with the original incandescent light bulb inside, so i decided to use the parts i had to do the same again, but with an LED bulb inside. i am still looking for a new or better-condition rear deck brake light, but until then i will have something that looks presentable and that functions. the bulb socket is hardwired to that part of the wiring harness, so gluing the light fixture shut means that the entire assembly is hard-wired to the car. so the first step is to add a connector so that i can change the fixture out easily when i find a replacement. andre
  15. i think arun went with 225s, IIRC he had to roll his fender wells. you may want to review his threads (links above)
  16. that's great news! if you don't mind my asking, what was the cost for these? also, when they come in, please post pictures! also, to answer your earlier questions -- i'm not aware of any off-the-shelf coilovers for the 505s, but some people (including arun, i think), have build their own so that's probably what you'd have to do to get coilovers for your car. speaking of arun, he was very careful to choose "truck wheels" for his car that didn't look like truck wheels; but i understand your not wanting to make any permanent changes to your car, that's a legitimate concern IMHO. the gottis are the only wheels with the correct bolt pattern that i've seen that are available in larger sizes than stock, otherwise you would have to use adapters to get larger diameter wheels. also -- if you are looking for a strut brace for your 505, forum members have discovered that a strut brace from a mitsubishi evo 7 is the perfect size (although you may have to drill some holes to attach it).
  17. http://www.gbsalpine.com/wheel/gotti/eng/075.html
  18. check out this project from arun, one of our forum members here: he modified the hubs of his 505 (v6) to use truck wheels, more commonly available here in the US and his subsequent wheel upgrade he also modified his suspension, this is a track car that he also drives on the street
  19. andrethx

    Noob Questions

    reading your post has "refined" my memory of how all of these things work - i think your analysis is spot on. the solenoid system is essentially a second lock that's pre-installed on all of the cars to save on labor cost...the remote system is plug and play and IIRC it was even a dealer-installed accessory. so you have two possibilities, a car without the remote system and a car with the remote system; given the constraints the product planners imposed, the engineers came up with a system that is complicated but allows for both possibilities. there is a similar logic to the door locks on the car; my 1991 405 and my earlier 1986 505 both have power door locks but no remote. french manufacturers were way out front in offering remote locking/unlocking systems, from the early 80s on peugeots and renaults used an infrared-based system called the PLIP -- if you google that term, you'll find a lot of information out there on the internet as well as here on this forum. on the 80s and 90s peugeots, the transceiver unit generally goes in the overhead console, if you remove the panel of the plafonnier (dome light), you'll see a spot where the transceiver can be plugged in. the dealer kits were all bought up years ago but you can sometimes find good used ones (or even $$$ NOS ones) on the european ebays. it's also possible to wire up a modern RF-based remote locking kit at this install point, but you will still be left with the operational constraints of the system (i.e., no remote trunk-popping) unless you re-engineer things yourself. car looks great, by the way.
  20. andrethx

    Noob Questions

    welcome mystreba! please post pics of your car when you get a chance. IIRC, the 505 trunk lock works the same as on the 405...to open the trunk, you push in the button. you use the key to lock & unlock the trunk (putting the key into the keyhole on the button) -- if it's unlocked, pushing the button will open it. if it is locked, pushing the button does nothing. the solenoid/actuator is there in the event that you have the optional remote (which was available in europe, not sure if it was available in the US/Canada). this remote would lock and unlock the doors; when you locked the doors, it would lock the trunk but when you unlocked the doors it would not unlock the trunk. there is no trunk release button inside the car. so if the trunk is locked, the only way it will open is if someone gets out of the car, rain or shine, and unlocks it with a key and presses the button. "wow," you are thinking, "this is a huge pain in the ass, why would anyone design a car this way." but actually, it is quite charming and french. protip: if you are taking a weekend getaway with your crush/significant other, make sure the trunk is unlocked before you pull into the porte cochere of that fancy hotel, or you'll be back there with the bellman getting your luggage out of the trunk since he will have no idea how to get into your locked trunk and you will definitely lose style points. this is part of the fun of owning an older french car, things will be going fine for a while and you'll be thinking, "hey, it's really not that different from other cars i've owned" and then you will encounter something like the trunk or the horn or any one of a dozen other things which will make no sense at first (and maybe even later). but we are here for you, ask anything and we will do our best to answer. also, if you haven't already, you should join peugeot-l (yahoo group) and our Facebook group. andre
  21. andrethx

    91 405 Mi16 build thread

    that's good advice, goce, thanks. i will definitely do that. the bordeaux color was pretty common in the US/Canada on the 405s. my rear-deck brake light is all cracked and in bad shape; i got another one but it's only slightly better. we have had the requirement for the high-mounted third brake light in the US since 1986 so for the 405, this light is a US/Canada only part and is thus very difficult to find now. at times i have considered replacing the rear spoiler with one that has an integrated brake light so i could get rid of the rear deck light. this would leave a hole in the rear deck panel so i looked at getting a rear deck panel from europe and they are all black or grey as you note. of course, i could get a grey one and paint it bordeaux but i've decided to stick with the original configuration (at least with respect to the interior brake light). i have a pair of A/D/S 300i panel speakers, they were very popular and well-regarded at the time the car was new ("period correct," as they say), i had considered putting them in the rear deck of this car but i think i'll save them for a future project. instead, i am going to replace the worn-out factor speakers with good aftermarket speakers and use the original grills so it will look original but sound very nice. the original grills are kinda tired so i'm going to refinish them in the next few days with satin black spray paint.
  22. andrethx

    91 405 Mi16 build thread

    a couple of days ago i found some time to remove the rear deck trim piece from the car. the most difficult thing about this sort of task in an old car is removing the part you want to replace/work on without damaging anything. the rear deck speakers were trashed, so i removed them from the mounts and measured them to make sure my replacements would fit yesterday i gave the rear deck trim a good cleaning with all purpose cleaner and a microfiber cloth i had some time late this afternoon so i painted the rear deck trim (plage arrière). it came out pretty nice, the dupli-color trim paint is a pretty good match for the original bordeaux color i gave it three coats with about 10 minutes of drying time in between (as directed). going to let it cure for a couple of days before i re-install.
  23. andrethx

    91 405 Mi16 build thread

    7587.N9
  24. andrethx

    91 405 Mi16 build thread

    thanks goce. my theory is that the plastic clips that hold the switch assembly on the backside of that trim piece broke and the screws were put in to hold the switch assembly in place; it doesn't look like the hole was ever covered. another piece that i'll probably have to replace. it's pretty clear that the big silver philips screw is not original; there was an original black screw that fit recessed into the front screw hole that i had just removed before this picture to get the size so i could replace both screws with the correct size. had some time today, put in the handbrake handle cover. like most jobs on my car, it was 90% cleaning. next on my list is to get the dashboard back together. i need to get some LED bulbs for the instrument panel before i put everything back together. i have a new windshield wiper control stalk that i need to install and i still need to get a new turn signal stalk. hopefully can get to those items soon.
  25. andrethx

    91 405 Mi16 build thread

    question for mike, or savo, or any of the other 405-knowledgable people out there: are these holes original, or were they put there by a previous owner of this car? there were two long, thin black screws here...
×