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andrethx

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Everything posted by andrethx

  1. recently got some new parts -- i got the OE lock set from western hemispheres, it replaces the ignition, door & trunk locks with new ones. i'm thinking about just replacing the door locks and the ignition lock and keeping the trunk lock as a spare -- i like having two separate keys for the door/ignition and trunk/glove box. this new set solves a couple of issues for me: the new ignition lock is the european lockset, and eliminates the terrible door-open-key-in buzzer on the US models (as reported by cameron on peugeot-l when he installed this set on his 405) i get new door locks, the driver's side lock on my car is kinda worn out and the locks & lock seals have overspray on them i also got a remote lock kit, this one is RF so it brings my car to the late 90s/early 2000s. the plan is to wire it into the spot in the overhead console where the original plip transceiver went. my car came with a kleikert transceiver but no remote fobs; i also got a neiman transceiver/fob combo a while back to study the pinouts. one thing i want to do is enable the trunk lock/unlock on the remote. i'm not sure what i'll need to do that, i'm not even really sure how the trunk lock works. there is a locking module attached to my trunk but it doesn't seem to do anything. i don't have an owner's manual so i'm not sure how it's supposed to work. fortunately, i just found a nice condition owner's manual and ordered it so i should have that next week or so. andré
  2. moved this post to for sale/want ads since it's an item for sale. site metrics being what they are, it will be more visible to potential buyers as well. eklo, let us know if you are interested in being in the vendors section
  3. very nice, love the 80s/90s music at the end. with the engine on a stand like that, everything looks so easy! no busted knuckles or cursing. not everyone has your skills, savo. the original peugeot timing pin set is hard to find, but excellent reproductions are available from a number of vendors including spoox motorsports in the UK. i found one of those digital tension meters a while back on ebay france... andré
  4. THIS. these hard pieces are the desiccated remains of sheets of sound-deadening material that has dried out, hardened and broken off over the years. it serves no function except to make noise. get rid of it. if you want to replace it, use dynamat or something similar. andré
  5. interesting, hugh! do you know what kind of documents you need to transport the car across the border? just the title, or something additional? andré
  6. he must have sold a lot of cars and made a lot of money during the tar sands oil boom, i'm sure the special paint job doubled the already-astronomical cost of the car because porsche. OTOH, a couple of hours ago i heard a story on the radio -- BBC newshour -- about the movement for cooperation between nations on the opening of the arctic ocean due to climate change, and the reporter was in regina. she said the temperature today was -10 degrees C (about 14 degrees F). no thanks, man, no thanks....
  7. no codes/lights and starting but quitting sounds like a fuel problem to me, as well. i did a quick google to see if there was anything unusual about 91 civics and this thread was one of the first to pop up. it's an interesting read, and it's amusing on several levels.... andré
  8. savo -- sent you a message in facebook about this. i'm leaning towards getting these, when i do i'll write everything up.
  9. gulf livery --- nice! i would definitely take those on back roads. but not bad roads.
  10. that makes sense, the bottom of the box is level with the fuel tank and the spare tire so i can see where it smooths out the underside of the car. i will take a closer look at the box the next time i am under the car.
  11. back roads? koll is a sophisticated urbanite, i can't see him doing back roads....
  12. most bmws are pretty nicely designed and equipped, i imagine there are lots of them in Seattle (as there are here, in LA) so you probably see as many less-than-appealingly modded ones as i do. so i'm with you on this. i like bmws a lot, they seem even more appealing to me now that the d-bag crowd has mostly moved on to audis (at least here in socal). in a couple of years when i get my next project car, I'm considering an e36 convertible. very nice! i remember the furor when the n54 engine came out without a dipstick, there's some sort of graphic display for the oil level, correct? please post more pics when you have the opportunity. one of my high school friend's parents had a cressida, it was the mid-80s one (x70?), basically the first one that was a a four-door supra. it was a great car. andré
  13. finally had some time to work on the peugeot today, it was cool and clear here in LA. i decided to do the rear brakes -- changing out the rotors and pads. here's a before picture of the passengers' side: the two hardest parts were detaching/re-attaching the parking brake cable on the rear calipers (until i figured out how to do it with the tools i had) and compressing the cylinder...i have a disc brake set for this purpose (with lots of different fittings) but it seemed like the cylinders just didn't want to go in at first. here is a comparison between the old and the new brake pads (old rear, new front). they weren't really that bad but i wanted to check everything out so i did the brakes anyway... additionally, i couldn't get the rotor off of the hub without removing the caliper yoke -- that's the bracket that the caliper mounts to. it was screwed from the back with two T50 screws, fortunately i had a socket for that. the factory service manual and the haynes manual both said nothing about having to remove the yoke to remove the rotor, but i couldn't see any other way. because i was improvising, i had to figure the torque setting when i replaced the bolts...i used 26 ft/lbs (about 35 nm) which is the same setting that the new caliper screws take according to the FSM; i also used blue thread lock all around. here's an after shot of the driver's side, the passengers' side took about an hour but this side went much faster: here is a shot of the rear exhaust tube (in front of the rear muffler) -- as i mentioned in an earlier post, it looks to me like it's hanging low: also -- what is this plastic box bolted to the underside of the trunk (boot) floor? it is just behind the fuel tank and in front of the spare tire carrier. i cannot figure out the purpose of this thing.... lastly, i may have found a set of new door/body seals...i'll report more as that situation develops... andré
  14. very nice! also, nice lancia montecarlo in the background.... andré
  15. i got my wife a tonneau cover for her truck, and i finally found the time to work on it today. it's the factory unit that was available for her ford explorer sport trac: i got this one used from a guy on craigslist a while back. good condition used ones usually go for US$300-$500, this one was $100. however, once i got the four mounting brackets for the bed ($125), a new lock to replace the one that was missing ($50), re-keying for the two locks ($45) and replaced the worn-out latch cables ($120), my "bargain" was back in the expected price range. my wife is very happy, now she has a giant locking trunk on her truck when she needs it. yes, that is merde d'oiseaux on the side of the truck; it's been cold here plus i've been super busy with work so no time to wash it...not to mention we are still in a drought until the el niño actually shows up, and maybe even after that... andré
  16. whether you celebrate christmas, hanukkah, kwanza, festivus, or whatever, happy holidays from the admins here at 505turbo.com! we wish you a happy, healthy 2016.
  17. back when i had my 505, i wanted to upgrade the sway bars to the larger turbo units; the geometry on these is slightly different than the older non-turbo sway bars that my car had so they use different end links. that's another difference. so what you're talking about, essentially, is swapping out your turbo/v6-style front suspension for the "regular" style to avoid the unobtainium parts? in other words, a front suspension downgrade? i don't know if anyone has done this, but if they did it'd probably be somebody like ukit who repairs peugeots and has access to lots of parts cars. i can check with him the next time i see him (hopefully in the next week or two). this seems like it would be a lot of trouble/expense for a car you are thinking about selling. might there be a less involved option, like downgrading to the early turbo-style suspension (pre-abs)? i have to admit, i've been drinking eggnog so i'm not at my sharpest right now.... andré
  18. well, you know what they say about being a pioneer and being out front, ahead of everybody -- you get your arrows in the back, not in the chest. seriously, though, thanks for writing this stuff up. i don't think i'll ever swap the engine on my mi16, but i could see doing a 6-speed swap some time... andré
  19. i saw that jessie at dubarr is selling a n9t head on ebay for US$150 OBO, but it needs repairs so i assume it's cracked... andré
  20. i don't speak for rock auto, but i'm pretty sure their corporate headquarters is in madison, wisconsin...they use a number of different warehouses/shipping facilities, some in the US, some outside the US, some of which they own, some of which belong to contractors, etc. they are really more of a parts network than a single warehouse with a bunch of stuff in it. they regularly post discount codes here for our forum members and we're grateful for that, but they are a big, distributed enterprise so i don't think they monitor this area of the forum for support questions like this one... your best best to find out about a particular part like the head gasket set is to call or email them so they can track it down for you. andré
  21. when i was chasing down my intermittent starting problem (which turned out to be a loose connector on the ignition control module), i used an ignition tester...it plugs in between the cable coming off of the distributor and the individual spark plugs, lets you know when the spark plug is firing. very inexpensive, you can get them at any auto parts place. andré
  22. changed the distributor cap & rotor, also changed the spark plugs and wires. the old wires were 7mm, the new bougicords are the same i think but the insulation is thicker so the spark plug cover doesn't fit really well...may just take it off... the old spark plugs were pretty black, plus they had some rust on them: the car doesn't really run any better -- it ran pretty well before -- but it starts right up now; i don't have to crank it at all (whereas, before, i had to crank it a second or two to start it). i'm sure that's the new coil plus the new plugs. the haynes manual said to gap the spark plugs to 1.6mm (!?!) but that seemed crazy so i dug out my factory manual and it said 1.2mm so i went with that. upcoming tasks include changing the brake rotors and pads & bleeding the brakes and flushing the radiator. with regard to the second task, i also have new thermostat but i don't yet have the gaskets for it so that job will wait until i get the parts. longer term, in addition to more cleaning and cosmetics, i need to start replacing suspension bushings and fastening trim pieces down more securely as the car really doesn't feel too tightly screwed together during spirited driving.... andré
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