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About Bean

  • Rank
    Peugeot Enthusiast
  • Birthday 06/21/1971

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  • Location
    Regina, SK, Canada
  • Interests
    Contact me via e-mail at rabin@505turbo.com

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  1. Bean

    WTB: 505 TD Manual flywheel

    Hi Dave, Do you have access to the flywheel - pictures might help someone identify it better if they can see it. There's a gentleman (Larry) that is advertising a Peugeot package and he *might* have a flywheel in the parts lot. My xd3t 5sp flywheel is functional in the car so no help there. BTW: Is something wrong with yours? Or are you doing a 5sp swap into an auto? I'd also recommend calling Mike Aube or Brian Holm up to discuss options - they might even have a flywheel. Rabin
  2. Bean

    1983 505 & 1982 604 +Engines, Parts, Manuals

    Hi Larry - thanks for the update. 1982 likely means a XD2S Turbo diesel (2.3L) with a Bosch VE injection pump. As for more pictures: If you can take pictures of all 4 lower door seams, both side of engine compartment, dog legs inside rear doors, and inside trunk without the matt or carpet - that should show how rust free the car is. I wish I was in the market as I have a beautifully running 1986 505 TD 5sp that would make that 604 right. I did forward it to a friend though who might be interested. Thanks, Rabin
  3. Bean

    1983 505 & 1982 604 +Engines, Parts, Manuals

    Thanks for the location Larry. I'm assuming the 505 is a parts car for the 604 as it looks like it'd be a lot of work to save. The 604 however looks in amazing shape. It would be ideal if you could take pictures to verify it's rust free. It should also be a 5sp, but the year would help figure out what motor should be in it. Head should have a casting number on it saying XD2 or XD3. Thanks, Rabin
  4. Bean

    505 12hr drive

    It's electronic ignition so no points. Is this a new purchase or do you know the car? Dextron 2 if you can find it is best, but you need to ensure all fluids are topped off at least. If it's a new to you car you should really try to get someone close to look at it for you, or pay a shop for a pre-purchase inspection. Getting AAA might also be good. It's pretty easy to set up a 12V plug if needed, and it should be pretty easy to tap into something under the dash. I travel with a battery pack when camping, but it charges off the car when driving so that it's able to works as a booster if needed as well. Rabin
  5. Bean

    505 12hr drive

    Check the fuses for a blown one - double check there's nothing inside the sockets as well before replacing them. How long do you have before you leave? And what year / model 505 is it? Rabin
  6. Bean

    505 12hr drive

    Mostly depends on current condition of the car. Checking the car over prior to the trip is your best bet - if it checks out 95% of your breakdown risk is gone. Highway miles are particularly easy on a car, so as long as it's been maintained well it should be fine. (You should be able to remember things like last tune up, oil change etc.) Good tires and at proper pressure also good. Rabin
  7. The 14's aren't as desirable as the 15's - but you might find someone that needs some 14's... TRX: I personally like them a lot, but they were old 10 years ago when I last ran them at a 3 day track school. They still stuck really well and drove great, but several years after that I pulled the tires off and recycled them as I wasn't going to ever buy new TRX tires. Subaru: The late 70's and early 80's Suburu's ran the 4x140 bolt pattern. Offset is off by ~1" which makes them a flush fitment on the Subaru, but more importantly allows them to run offroad tires on lifted ones like this: Became FB friends with the owner of this rig and helped him get this rims from another guy in Cali... Rabin
  8. Hi John, I'd market the 14's to the old Subaru crowd as you can likely get a couple hundred with lug nuts. TRX wheels I'd just recycle - I got $45 up here in Canada for 3 wheels. Not worth anything unless they have excellent tires - but they're seriously aged out even if they look good. Rabin
  9. Bean

    1991 505 Turbo MAF

    Hi Scott, Very doubtful you'll find a new VAF (Vane Air Flow vs Mass Air Flow), so used is likely your only route. May I ask why you need a new MAF? I've never personally had to replace one - curious what symptoms you're getting. More common issue is the intake hose from the VAF to the turbo cracks. Also NLA - but easier to make something. Rabin
  10. Just out of curiousity - Do you have the bellhousing that would mate to the N9T block or would you need to locate that as well? I wish you all the best, but it seems like finding a proper ROC motor that's ready for vintage racing will be quite the journey. I'd start with the advert listed above for the head and hopefully you can track that down - or at least stumble across someone that might have some spares. Keep us posted on your successes - and if there's any cross over parts that would be of use to you - please let me know. Rabin
  11. Definitely more suited as a race motor if you're into competitive vintage racing, but if one is restoring it to be historically correct AND wants to run it in events you could built a decent 8V motor to Maurelec Lada-POC specs (240HP?) We'd need to know the intended purpose, budget, and race expectations to advise properly. Rabin
  12. Welcome B29! I assume your car didn't come with any engine spares? The ONLY parts I've ever come across was the advert for the new head above, but it's marked sold now. You could potentially get it running with an 8V head from the turbo N9T** engines and a custom NA cam - but I've got no idea what kinds of rules or restrictions vintage race cars have to follow. In another thread I recently looked at twin plugging the stock head, but it would need holes bored into the head and machined spark tubes to be welded in to add the second plug. Better idea is to copy what Danielson did and relocate the existing spark plug. With a more modern/powerful ignition system firing spark more accurately - I suspect the advantage twin plugs had back then would either be eliminated or reduced to a very minor improvement at best. Please feel free to start an engine thread though as I'd love to help any way I can. Rabin
  13. Finally getting into the garage again and couldn't resist tearing into a parts motor that I got that was seized. Figured ot was good for the odd rare parts, but the head has only started to crack - Kicker is that it's starting at the water jacket! Both 2 & 3 are just starting to crack - neither has made it to the valve seats. Should be an easy fix. Also looked at dual plugging and it would just need way to much work to do properly. I think the Dani relocation using the existing spark plug hole is the way to go. Better plug location, better plugs, and better coils should be plenty of improvement and pretty much negate dual plugging. Will definitely save this head and will likely look at getting it fixed/rebuilt if someone needs a head. (I've already got 2 Dani heads and a known good head). Rabin
  14. Goce - A while back I did some research on the Lada POCH race cars. Engines weren't turbocharged, but they were built NA Maurolec engines that were rated at 240HP, and then later they used the ROC version of the engine with their DOHC 4 valve head on a 2.5L version of this motor making 280HP. Funny enough they then went to the PRV V6 after that. http://lada-poch.e-monsite.com I'd LOVE to find the ROC head for these engines, but the cams would be all wrong for boost. If you're ever able to meet and ask about how they twin plugged the head I'd definitely be open to modifying my heads as well. 240HP out of an I4 SOHC 8v on carbs is very impressive - especially in offroad endurance racing. Rabin
  15. Sadly those kinds of dyno services aren't available, and at $150+/hr in the bigger cities it's just not feasible to do it in Canada unless you have very deep pockets! Bill: Very good point - Part of the driver to go to a proper standalone ECU Is it can limit boost based on engine temp - Once the car is properly up to temp - then it can be set up to increase boost. They also usually have WBO2 oxygen sensors, and ideally an EGT sensor so that fueling the motor is so much morr accurate. Rabin