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Bean

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About Bean

  • Rank
    Peugeot Enthusiast
  • Birthday 06/21/1971

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    http://www.qcma.org
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Regina, SK, Canada
  • Interests
    Contact me via e-mail at rabin@505turbo.com

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  1. Bean

    Fixing my 1987 505 STI

    Rear rotors seem like a lot of work but aren't too bad - the Hub assembly is held on with 4x 8mm Allen bolts that are accessible through the big hole in the wheel bolt flange, just rotate the flange around until you get all 4 out. Use a good allen socket, and make sure it's full seated in the head of the bolt before undoing it. Rear calipers: Are you sure they're seized? You won't really know their condition until you remove them, but just remember the piston needs to be rotated before it will slide back to change the pads. Never force the piston back. Glad the transmission oil tip worked out - My 505 STI 5sp was THE best shifting car I've ever driven after using the Redline NS gear oil in it. Rabin
  2. Bean

    Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

    Engine heat / oil temp is the cure for moisture in the oil. Good t-stat, functioning PCV (ie: no plugged up screens), clean oil, and if it's getting cold make sure to use a lower viscosity oil like 5w30 or even 0w40. If the car isn't on synthetics now, I'd recommend and engine flush prior with liqui-moly or similar, and then filter changes every 1500 miles at least twice as synth will free up a lot of gunk in engine. If your oil looks like a chocolate milkshake it's a coolant leak, but if you just see white stuff with good oil on dipstick it mostly needs a good long drive. Rabin
  3. Bean

    Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

    Mentioned it previously - that's the wrong oil cap. Functioning Pcv systems reduce/prevent condensation. Volvo cover gasket set for your Volvo I hope? And no. Bad upper rad hose was bad for coolant to circulate properly. New t-stat and new hoses should get it to temp quick which helps reduce condensation. XN6 engines will blow head gaskets if head bolts not checked as per manual. Newer 505s were "supposed" to not nerd retorquing, but still adviseable by most now. Rabin
  4. Bean

    Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

    Did you test the main pump with 12V yet? Banjo bolts are reuseable - as are copper crush washers if you can anneal them before reuse. You should never need sealant on a copper washer btw. Rabin
  5. Bean

    Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

    Did you test the main pump with 12V? CIS runs at 70 psi so you really should know it will work before installing it. Will it take the same threaded banjo bolt connections at least? Rabin
  6. Bean

    N9TE Engine Rebuild

    Never heard of any valves breaking, reason mentioned many times was that it didn't justify the cost. Fully agree about them running lean - especially here as we got even lower flowing fuel injectors (~280cc/min). Standalone management of boost control is another big advantage over stock. Rabin
  7. Bean

    N9TE Engine Rebuild

    The North America 1985 505 Turbo cars had sodium exhaust valves and a .48 A/R turbo with no water cooling. In 86 they got rid of the sodium filled valves and went with a smaller .36 A/R watercooled turbo. Pistons should be fine with MS3X, but they do not tolerate detonation at all which was usually because of wastegate failure and overboosting. Overboost switch delayed it if it was functional - but often they failed or simply not connected. Lots of N9T** motors died that way. With proper fueling and engine management I think these motors will make very good power. Rabin
  8. Bean

    Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

    Your car is CIS - You might want to recheck the Walbro pump specs as CIS runs at a MUCH higher pressure than regular cars. Make very sure it can handle CIS pressures. Back in the day - CIS pumps were the upgrade for modified cars as they handled much higher pressures and they flowed a lot of volume. Have you checked the main pump by applying power direct? Rabin
  9. Sorry - I just meant also using Spec as the supplier. I figured 2+ would be a good compromise between being able to handle the power and not abusing the drivetrain. I'd rather have the clutch be the fuse in the driveline than risk damaging the stock BA10/5 or the stock diff, but I'm only shooting for 300 RWHP, so 2+ should still be plenty of clutch for me and still have nice drive ability. Would definitely consider stage 3+ if you have favorable experience with it however. MS3 should add a lot of tuning capability - should be fun to see what kind of power your car can make. Definitely one of the nicest 505 projects I've ever seen come together. Rabin
  10. That sucks! Sadly all my used 5sp clutches are still in the cars. I was also thinking of a Spec 2+ as I wanted to keep the sprung clutch plate, but I do have a new Sachs clutch that will get used first. I'd hate to sacrifice a new part to get rebuilt by Spec, so will need to ensure the used ones I have are saved so they can be rebuilt. Do you have any idea what you're going to use for engine management? Rabin
  11. Where are you located Junkwurx? Rabin
  12. Bean

    Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

    If you google it you'll see references to it on the forum - Or try the forum search. Volvo uses a Tachymetric relay that works, or you may be able to save it by resoldering the joints on it. Running 12V direct to the pump will tell you for sure. The other stuff you mentioned wouldn't have caused you any issues at all. Rabin
  13. Bean

    Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

    There's an intake low pressure fuel pump in the tank, that then feeds the high pressure pump beside the accumulator as you mentioned. There's also a tachymetric relay under the dash mounted near the steering column that passes power to the pump on start up. If the pump isn't powering up I'd suspect the relay first, the quick check for that is to provide 12V direct to the fuel pump and see if it pressures up. Rabin
  14. Bean

    Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

    Head is aluminum, and yes it's a hemi. I rely on "mechanical feel" and not torque with plugs, just don't over tighten and you should be good. They just need to be snug, and I HIGHLY recommend using a little bit of high heat anti-seize on the threads. Rabin
  15. Bean

    N9TE Engine Rebuild

    ^^ Curious why you used rods and not pistons? Rods are supposed to be factory forged - but the pistons have a reputation of being fairly weak... I've never heard of a rod failure, but I could definitely see it if you wanted yo lighten them - factory rods are quite heavy! Rabin
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