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Bean

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About Bean

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    Peugeot Enthusiast
  • Birthday 06/21/1971

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    http://www.qcma.org
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    Male
  • Location
    Regina, SK, Canada
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    Contact me via e-mail at rabin@505turbo.com

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  1. Bean

    1991 505 Turbo MAF

    Hi Scott, Very doubtful you'll find a new VAF (Vane Air Flow vs Mass Air Flow), so used is likely your only route. May I ask why you need a new MAF? I've never personally had to replace one - curious what symptoms you're getting. More common issue is the intake hose from the VAF to the turbo cracks. Also NLA - but easier to make something. Rabin
  2. Just out of curiousity - Do you have the bellhousing that would mate to the N9T block or would you need to locate that as well? I wish you all the best, but it seems like finding a proper ROC motor that's ready for vintage racing will be quite the journey. I'd start with the advert listed above for the head and hopefully you can track that down - or at least stumble across someone that might have some spares. Keep us posted on your successes - and if there's any cross over parts that would be of use to you - please let me know. Rabin
  3. Definitely more suited as a race motor if you're into competitive vintage racing, but if one is restoring it to be historically correct AND wants to run it in events you could built a decent 8V motor to Maurelec Lada-POC specs (240HP?) We'd need to know the intended purpose, budget, and race expectations to advise properly. Rabin
  4. Welcome B29! I assume your car didn't come with any engine spares? The ONLY parts I've ever come across was the advert for the new head above, but it's marked sold now. You could potentially get it running with an 8V head from the turbo N9T** engines and a custom NA cam - but I've got no idea what kinds of rules or restrictions vintage race cars have to follow. In another thread I recently looked at twin plugging the stock head, but it would need holes bored into the head and machined spark tubes to be welded in to add the second plug. Better idea is to copy what Danielson did and relocate the existing spark plug. With a more modern/powerful ignition system firing spark more accurately - I suspect the advantage twin plugs had back then would either be eliminated or reduced to a very minor improvement at best. Please feel free to start an engine thread though as I'd love to help any way I can. Rabin
  5. Finally getting into the garage again and couldn't resist tearing into a parts motor that I got that was seized. Figured ot was good for the odd rare parts, but the head has only started to crack - Kicker is that it's starting at the water jacket! Both 2 & 3 are just starting to crack - neither has made it to the valve seats. Should be an easy fix. Also looked at dual plugging and it would just need way to much work to do properly. I think the Dani relocation using the existing spark plug hole is the way to go. Better plug location, better plugs, and better coils should be plenty of improvement and pretty much negate dual plugging. Will definitely save this head and will likely look at getting it fixed/rebuilt if someone needs a head. (I've already got 2 Dani heads and a known good head). Rabin
  6. Goce - A while back I did some research on the Lada POCH race cars. Engines weren't turbocharged, but they were built NA Maurolec engines that were rated at 240HP, and then later they used the ROC version of the engine with their DOHC 4 valve head on a 2.5L version of this motor making 280HP. Funny enough they then went to the PRV V6 after that. http://lada-poch.e-monsite.com I'd LOVE to find the ROC head for these engines, but the cams would be all wrong for boost. If you're ever able to meet and ask about how they twin plugged the head I'd definitely be open to modifying my heads as well. 240HP out of an I4 SOHC 8v on carbs is very impressive - especially in offroad endurance racing. Rabin
  7. Sadly those kinds of dyno services aren't available, and at $150+/hr in the bigger cities it's just not feasible to do it in Canada unless you have very deep pockets! Bill: Very good point - Part of the driver to go to a proper standalone ECU Is it can limit boost based on engine temp - Once the car is properly up to temp - then it can be set up to increase boost. They also usually have WBO2 oxygen sensors, and ideally an EGT sensor so that fueling the motor is so much morr accurate. Rabin
  8. Agreed on the beryllium copper seats - When I had done the research on the probability of the valve seats being too tight, those were the recommended seats to use. 5 angle valve job on intake, stock 3 angle on the exhaust. As for the cap - If one is going through all this work to modify the N9T** a standalone ECU really is a must, so hopefully a distributor wouldn't be in the scope of this project. Rabin
  9. Thanks SRDT! I've seen his twin plug heads as well, but we'd need to collaborate on the specifics so that heads here could be fixed and machined for the second plug. Firing two plugs would be easy with standalone as you could simply use a v8 coil pack or 4x wasted spark coil packs. I've got a couple wrecked heads I could use for R&D, but finding someone to do the machining would be tough. Rabin
  10. Danielson head: These are subject to the same head cracking as the OE heads. My understanding is that they got the same head castings, but that they were machined slightly differently. I see no signs of welding and re-machining - so if that was done it was done really well. Combustion chamber is shaped different, and the spark plug was changed to a different angle entry, as well as a smaller 10mm race plug design (same as a sport bike). Rabin
  11. Some answers to the questions on FB: Closed deck: Sounds like someone has Subaru experience in their past. Not only is it a closed deck design, but it's an iron block so the block is very stout. Head crack history: Likely more due to the era this engine was built as even Toyota had head cracking issues. MANY other car makers including BMW's have the exact same issue with cracked heads - but no one really makes a fuss as they're fixable for reasonable money just like N9T** heads. Head crack causes: Some say it's due to a common practice during that era of press fitting valve seats with too much interference. Over time it caused the crack from the seat to the water jacket. Others claim poor cooling systems. My theory: I've studied this for damn near 20 years and I think it's poor cooling circulation system design. As soon as the closed system is compromised the head vulnerable to air pockets which causes temperature differentials in the head. The reservoir HAS to be completely above the head, and the head, engine, and rad NEED to be able to self bleed themselves of air. I've got a ton of ideas on how to fix this - I just have lacked the time to document and test on my own engines. Head fixes: This is a relatively easy fix, with known good shops providing great repairs. If there was enough interest I'm sure we could organize a group buy on head repairs, I'd even be happy to approach them for costing if we had 5 or so ready to put down cash. Overall I think the N9TE has crazy potential and is seriously overlooked. Biggest issue is the limited capabilities of the ECU, and I'm sure if these had a well tuned standalone (+ injectors) you could throw quite a bit more at this engine even with the stock bottom end. Throw in forged pistons and lighter forged rods and I see no reason why these wouldn't be 300 RWHP cars. Rabin
  12. From Facebook: Let's talk n9t/e/ea head failures, did they get better or worse since 1984? Has anyone actually narrowed down the actual cause of cracking? Also has anyone ever replicated the head? Hopefully using a better alloy? If so has that head cracked in the same location? I also recall someone mentioning that the danielson head might have had the same cracking issue? Is the cracking due to insufficient cooling? Or the wrong combination of metals? Or a bit of both? Material thickness? Poorly designed chambers? Anyone here own or know of a cyl head shop that could do some testing? How often do the heads crack again after a welding job? Could we make a group effort to help these engines live longer and with a ton more boost? (Yes I know the driveline wont last, splines and all) Maybe do some of our own R&D? If it so happens that the head would crack due to the materials used, maybe it's just simple as having it replicated with a different alloy? I plan on rebuilding my motor in the yellow car, or possibly swapping in another n9te I have out of an auto wagon which had just been redone before pulled. I need to drive this yellow 505 again it runs however has developed a rod knock, it's been too long, and I need more boost, let's do this.
  13. What are the wheel size specs? And what tires do you have in mind for the car? Rabin
  14. Bean

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    Can you post a picture? I can't remember seeing a PCB when I had mine apart, but I figured it had to be a simple printed circuit board if there was one in there - or does it have the rheosat on the PCB? Did the rheostat come apart? That's the coiled wire mess that varies the resistance with the location of the float. I remember messing with the float rheostat to get it to read properly... Rabin
  15. Bean

    Speaker Replacement: ‘86 505

    Or solder in wires to replace the pcb - can't imagine being too hard to figure out. Rabin
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