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Proper stage 1 for this car would be to retorque the head and adjust valves. Most people neglected doing it. Some may argue the newer versions did not not need retorquing but it will never hurt it when done properly. Adjusting valves can also make a huge improvement. PCV screens I mentioned should be cleaned and functional, but short trips in cold weather will always cause condensation which results in mayo under the cap. Rad hose - maybe zip tie the highest arc of that top hose over and down so there's no high spot for now - rad outlet should be highest part of hose. BTW - never randomly connect wires without knowing what they are and how they work. A multimeter and test light are essential tools for Peugeot ownership. Rabin

In that case I'd likely modify the mounting lug for perfect alignment, or if you can - modify the engine mount to suit the GM alternator. One time mod and then you can replace as needed anytime. The added output makes everything work so much better - especially at idle. Rabin

I thought I had a post detailing the GM alternator retrofit. Basically need to get a 1985 GM/Chevy 350 alternator. There's a two wire connector that plugs into the side, and the B+ post that connects to the battery. One of the two goes to the B+, the other wire is the signal wire from the original Bosch/PR. Rabin

Stumbled across this and thought I'd see if you had made any progress? Rabin

Whoops - I saw 83 505s and though xn6 gas motor. That said - I'm pretty sure it would be a similar thing to fit a Chevy alternator. Rabin

Do you have the stock one and is it PR? If so just call around as they're usually very rebuildable and usually a lot cheaper that way. Personally - I much prefer to retrofit a GM alternator. 80A stock and they power the accessories so much nicer than any of the stock alternators. It bolts on with slight belt deflection which never gave an issue, but it'd be easy to modify the mounting lug for perfect alignment. Rabin

Did you fix that rad hose Goce and I both pointed out? Would bet money thats playing a part. Rabin

I do have paypal, but just be aware shipping will be pricey as well. Can you PM me your address and I'll try to get a price for shipping first. Rabin

Not sure why you said below... It's a section off the main page, or this link: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/forum/22-vendors/ Rabin

Fully agree Bill! Although the variable rate steering in my 89 is the best of both worlds (loses assist at speed), I've snipped belts on other 504/505s and even the low speed isn't bad at all. Rabin

Hi Rich, Are you after a performance ground cam, or good stock cam? I can likely help with the good stock cam, and there's a place in Canada that can regrind - but the Dani and custom grind I have are earmarked for my engines. Rabin

Hi Victor! They're going to be hard to find - I've got an idea to make 40mm screw in extensions so that you can use the standard size inner tie rod assemblies, but haven't had the chance to try it out. Basically need to use the old tie rod threads welded to 40mm of the old threaded inner sleeve. Rabin

Agree with Goce - that upper rad hose needs to get replaced ASAP. It's a trapped air pocket waiting to happen. Oil filter cap looks like the PCV canister cap. Valve cover should have a separate hose on it for PCV that goes to air cleaner. 12V test light or a multimeter is what you need to find the stereo power wires. Rabin

Your car has an excellent oil bath filter system that only requires cleaning and fresh oil. Flows exceptionally well, and filters better so there's no advantage to replacing. Dex 2 PS rated fluid should be fine as well. Copper washers can be reused with success if you anneal them with heat if they're solid, if they're crush washers I replace them. Aluminum or copper washers work equally well and I've had success finding the right size at local auto parts shops. 5qts should be enough. Make sure yo check and clean pcv screens as well. Rabin

It does look pretty vulnerable - Any plans for a skid plate? Most rally armour has gone to polyurethane sheet, but alloy probably looks nicer for the street... And always so consistently CLEAN! Nice work as usual... Rabin

Booster nuts are accessible from inside like Goce advised, but you need to put the driver seat way back and get right into the footwell to do it. Boosters can be rebuilt, but not a DIY type deal. Also sounds like the vacuum seal against the actuator rod is the issue - if it was the diaphram you wouldn't have assisted braking. Also wanted to mention that people don't usually do well flipping Peugeot's - if it's not for you sell it with minimal time and money invested in it. If you like it - spend the money to fix and enjoy it for yourself with the understanding that you most likely won't have any ROI unless you drive and enjoy it. Rabin

Happy with putchase? Rabin

Great tire choice! So hard to find decent 15" tires now, and those are just fine. (I like mine with some sporting intentions rather than a touring or commuter tire). Brakes: Bit of work, but I'd recommend getting the rotors turned before putting new pads on. At the very least I'd use a pad sander with some 80 grit metal sand paper to knock the rust down. Rabin

It'll be either the female 8mm square hole plug, or it might be 12mm female allen for the oil pan - either way it'd be best to ask otherwise they'll use visegrips or some other silliness. On the plus side the oil filter crosses over to a common GM filter (3583?) so the filter shouldn't be an issue - just get a good one like Wix, Napa Gold or whatever higher line they sell. Another tip is to make sure the pcv screens in the pcv canister (beside starter on driver side of the motor) are in good shape. Rabin

The T3 on the car has a proprietary turbo flange - so does the 3076 fit the stock exhaust housing? If so most are .36 A/R with only the 89' turbo getting the slightly larger .48 A/R housing. If the 3076 has the stock T3 flange then you'll either need to mod the stock manifold by welding the T3 flange on, or go with a custom manifold. Some have gone with a custom T3/T4 hybrid using the stock housing as well which makes things a little easier as well. Standalone done here have been Megasquirt, I decided to go with VEMS a few years back, but I also picked up an SDS system a while back for my 505 sw8. Injectors I'd recommend Injector Dynamics as you need to run pretty big injectors and ID's have great reputation for quality. Bosch are always nice too - I've got some green giants (465cc) for the wagon. Rabin

As long as it was driven 1-2 times per month you'll be fine. Good luck and keep us posted on progress! Rabin

Is the driven - or has it sat parked for extended period? When was the tank last filled? Rabin

Looks great Savo! Althought this a rare repair to see you do where the parts haven't been powdered, painted, or polished before reinstall! Love this wagon - Such a cool build. Rabin

What tires did you get? I find tire construction, speed rating, and driving style play into pressures. If the tire is performance oriented with stiffer sidewalls I run close to factory settings, but if they're cheaper tires with soft sidewall I run 40+ as I'm all about handling my driving style. I'd also recommend checking the caliper as the disk is not showing a polished / clean brake surface - or were they quite rusty and that is the surface? Rabin

Great progress Mike! Looks fantastic. Rabin