Bean

I should add that the locost likely won't be a car I can license (at first anyway), so the 505 wagon will also serve as the hauler. Will mostly focus on local autocross, but there will be tracks I want to travel too for sure. Rabin

Oh man - That just makes me sick that I missed that 504 Coupe for $5K! Ah well - wasn't the right time, and not a car you want to buy sight unseen. Well done on your car for $1500! Looks in fantastic shape with decent maintenance from the pics. Definitely had some care and attention. Nice thing about the 505 wagon rig is it's still quite light, and with 225 tires it should fairly light contact patch so I'm hoping it will be decent in the sand. Would LOVE to do a Baja California trip at some point, and if I had to do my own land anchor I'd carry a shovel and use the spare sideways dug into a hole - supposed to work decent for extractions. Most of the overlanding I want to do will be mountain trails and such. Don't really have any interest it getting really far off the beaten path, so will still to known trail runs where having clearance is the big advantage. In high school we used to do bush parties (Northern Saskatchewan), and it'd be funny to see all these trucks at the site and them my 504 beside them. Most people walked in, but I always drove right with the trucks with no issues. Car had great clearance, and it was light so it never dug in anywhere. Rabin

Haha - The reverse sequence of the pictures screwed me up! At first glance I thought the final destination was the last few pics and the collection was yours! lol Totally forgot about the auction that had the same cars... Any idea what the 504 Coupe and Cab went for? Dangel clone I'm building is just going to be 2wd with LSD diff. I'm doing a 3-4" lift for the tires to fit, so it'll just have clearance and good tires. Will do a sheet metal bumper w/winch just in case I go somewhere I shouldn't have! In my youth I was a bush mechanic and saw how capable a 2wd truck with clearance was. I won't rock crawl - but trails can pretty narly and it should be fine. V70R with the 6sp auto and the Haldex 3 is a joy. Moving the suspension accelerometers from the strut to the body helped immensely! Took 90% of the ride harshness away, and going to a less aggressive DWS06 245/45-17 all but eliminated the rear side-hop issue over sharp bumps. Love the car - but I'm hoping to daily Peugeots again, so I'll be putting mine up for sale soon once it's fully sorted. Rabin

That rear heat / ac sounded like a good idea so I googled some van solutions... Really compact units that are only 6" wide, 13" tall, and about as long... We don't get too much of the extreme temps in summer, so will have to see how the stock AC system handles heat after it's redone. It's rare when it goes over 30C here. Rabin

OK now this makes sense! I just needed to take a little trip down memory lane (past posts) and all was revealed! It's been a while and I'd honestly hadn't associated the username with that build from 2011/12! 3 kids now too - I've got 2 girls myself, and they both LOVE camping which is the big driver to get the wagons sorted. Dangel for overlanding, the SW8 for trips to the lake and such over summer. Man you've dived in deep with the Peugeot's, and I love the current collection! Even the V10 Toureg is cool... My wife's daily is a 2008 535xi Touring M-Sport, and I'm driving a 2006 Volvo V70R GT. Lovely cars, but my heart is still Peugeot! I keep toying with the idea of engine swapping my 89' 505 Turbo sedan, but I'm hell bent on just getting a mildly modded N9TE together with modern turbo and electronics to see what it can do. ~300HP will be plenty, and the locost can be my all out track weapon. As for your 505 wagon: Chris Con....something... That rear heater/AC set up looks so familiar as well... Brian Holm might be able to confirm. Rabin.

Pics of the splindle swap and the HRE's? This wasn't car that was going to get Corvette drivetrain years ago was it? Rabin

That sadly isn't my garage - that's my buddy Mike who's kindly hosting two of my 505 wagons (silver Turbo SW8 shown, and the 86 505 TD wagon build project I started so many years ago...) Projects: V8 Locost build - 302 5sp super 7 '89 505 Turbo 5sp sedan - my halo car that will get: 5x120 hubs and BMW based big brake set up, Dani head, and upgraded turbo. Had VEMS but need to get it back from Nick Cota for engine management. 505 TD 4sp auto wagon - 2WD Dangel clone build. Basically want to lift the wagon and fit some 225/75-15 tires on it and do some overlanding. 505 SW8 Turbo wagon (shown) - Will get: SDS efi standalone w/ AEM Tru Boost and AEM WB02 controllers, 465cc Bosch green giant injectors, T3/T4 hybrid turbo. '86 505 TD 5sp sedan - parts car at this point - Possibly for an 89 505 Turbo wagon that Hugh has that has a bad motor. (Diesel 5sp wagon would be cool too) Mostly need a reality check, but I can't give any up for the time being, but the locost went to the top of the list as I've wanted one for years and couldn't turn it down. Rabin

Couldn't agree more btw! Mine needs a head replacement, and will get a few more goodies as well once sorted and running well. Just need to find the time! Rabin

Holy moly - That collection rivals Jim Schicks'! VERY envious of the 504 Coupè and Cabriolet. The red wagon looks familiar - if it's the one I'm thinking of it had a built N9TE in it. Rabin

Pretty hard to get brake fluid on that line from a mechanical failure perspective - more likely it was spilled onto it. If the tank seals are leaking then soaking it in warm water will soften both the plastic and the rubber seals holding the tank. Rabin

Do you have a one piece replacement? And yes - should only affect cruise. Rabin

80 ft*lbs is plenty for a M12 lug nut. Id suggest chasing all the lugs with a M12x1.25 tap, and cleaning all the studs with the same die if you can. Would then advise to use a little anti-seize on threads. It you don't have a tap & die set then use a wire brush and brake clean to get them clean. As for torque specs - a good place to start if you don know proper torque is to look up the rating by fastener size. I personally rely on feel as Ive broken more bolts with a torque than using what my Dad referred to as "mechanic feel" or mechanic tight" - you basically get a feel for it being tight. Rabin

Check inside the car - Brake fluid leak is usually the clutch master leaking inside the car where the clutch rod goes in. Rabin

Nope. Is it an image or an album? Rabin

Hi Ronny, Apologies - My Mother in-law has been in palliative care the last few weeks and she passes away this weekend. Once the family stuff settles down, I'll be back in town and get pics loaded up. Rabin

Idle or at 2000 rpm? Stock alternators don't usually have enough poop to do 14.3V at idle - try measuring at 1500-2000rpm. I usually try to replace with a 80A GM alternator. Regardless - don't think it's related to the pump function. Rabin

Rusty tank will make very quick work of even a new filter. Is tank known good and rust free? Fuel pump needs to be able to provide 70 psi without issue... Tank should have functional vent / breather system. If suction is being created you should check tank vent tubing. Rabin

Remember way back when I said that CIS systems run at much higher pressures than normal fuel injection and the Walbro might not be able to cope? That's my guess. You might also want to confirm fuel pressure, and I'd replace that fuel filter for sure before replacing pump just to make sure. Hole in the fuel cap is just dumb. Rabin

I can measure and confirm the Peugeot flange yes. KKK design looks similar to the volvo design... Adaptors are also difficult as there is little space above the motor mount. Would need to be aware of the tight confines at least. I did use Canada Post surface parcel as it was the cheapest by far. Rabin

K24/K26 off what car / application? Lots of makes use proprietary designs, but I'm not familiar with "standard" K24/26 flanges. ie: My 2006 Volvo V70R uses a K24 but it's the standard Volvo flange... (Fantastic turbo btw!) I've started cutting the flange off my old Volvo manifold as well just to see about it getting welded onto the Peugeot flange as well. I've currently got a wee stock pile of them as I thought it would be neat to figure out a nice solution so that modern turbos would be a bolt on - But so few people ever show interest in building these motors that it's likely not a very good business model! I won't be able to do much of anything till next week, but I'll take some pictures of what I've found so far as well as comparisons to the T3, T25, and Volvo flanges. If you can't find a spare I can send one, but shipping alone will be $105 -$120CDN. (Just shipped a N9TE camshaft to the UK and it was $105) Rabin

Sadly no - bolt pattern is smaller than T3, bigger than T25, and has a round outlet hole. I'll post some pictures as I have a T25 flange to compare with. Options I've considered is to have the manifold milled out and have a T3 flange welded in, or have a v-band flange welded onto it and use a v-band inlet turbo housing. Nice thing about the v-band turbo housings is the area of the opening is close to a T4 opening which means far less restriction. Rabin

Great turbo for this motor, but you'll have to modify the manifold or build new as it has a proprietary flange that's smaller than T3 and different then the T25. This will be such an outstanding build once done! Rabin

Looks great! That can handle a ton of torque and still has the sprung center... I noticed your turbo housing - I've wondered if it's the standard Ford 5 bolt flange so that it could be upgraded to this: https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-023&Category_Code= Not sure what your power goals are, but the stock flange is horribly restrictive. The newer n9te/a cars came with Cosworth style housings that flowed much better, but had smaller A/R. Rabin

Squishy brake pedal: have you set rear brake shoes and made sure everything inside drums was good? Did rear brake cylinders bleed OK? Rabin

The 2.2L ZDJL SOHC cars only came out in 87+ cars, prior to that they were all 2.0L XN6 cam in block cars like this one. Didn't even know the warm up regulator had screens! Were they plugged? Or were the screens themselves the restriction? I'd also check to make sure you have a functioning vacuum advance as they're a common failure point and make the car gutless. That NM sun sure fries cars extra crispy too - but guessing no rust issues? Looks great with those big 14's on it too! Rabin