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Found 57 results

  1. Selling my friend's Peugeot collection for his widow. 2 diesel cars, 604 with engine installed (was running when it was parked in the shop a couple of years ago...), and a 505 with the engine removed. Includes (2) diesel engines in the shop (minus the stands), many, many extra parts and a good selection of manuals. Asking $2700.00 for the whole collection. I am no Peugeot expert by any means, so please peruse the photos I have included and feel free to ask any questions and I will do my best to provide reasonable answers. I'm really hoping this collection can go to someone who will appreciate it! Reasonable offers considered. Thanks, Larry
  2. Hey all. I've uploaded a whole host of misc parts that I have for sale. I tried to do it in a manner that shows the part number and the condition of the part if possible. I realize that there are no prices up (yet) but you can always make me an offer, the worst I can do is come back with a counter offer. I will have a parts list and some prices up at some point in the future - soon hopefully. check them out: https://picasaweb.google.com/116400569354424146538/PuegeotParts cheers Tony
  3. Edit: THIS ITEM HAS BEEN SHIPPED AND IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE. ------------- I have a brand-new, in the original Peugeot parts bag, ignition switch and door keylock set for a 505.. Includes two keys, the later 1986+ style that have the square rubber heads with the logo on them. Long, long, ago, in a galaxy far, far away... I had 4 different 505s over about 7 years, and somehow this ignition set got stuck in a drawer and never used before I got rid of the last car. I'm too sentimental to throw away a perfectly good part kit that somebody could probably make use of, so it is FREE to the first person who sends me an address (domestic US only, please). I'll send it in a USPS small flat-rate box at no cost. Just put it to good use and get it out of my house!
  4. Last weekend, we picked up a 1983 505 (XN6, manual) in Austin, Texas that had been off the road for about two-and-a-half years. When we got it it wasn't clear if it was going to be a pile of parts or a project. After spending a few days getting it running again, its status is officially 'project' I'm starting this thread in part to seek advice with issues that the car has, but also to keep track of the state that it's in and how it progresses over time. So, with that said, here's where things stand at present: The car: 1983 505, XN6, manual. Odometer says 155,400 miles but the speedo has the usual issues which mean that it could be 1,155,400 for all I know. General condition suggests that number may be about right, however. The good: Clutch, gearbox, steering, cooling, and electrics all seem to be pretty solid. Body is straight. 33 years of shopping cart dings, some clearcoat peel and minor solar oxidation, but overall it looks OK from 20 feet away. Well, maybe 30. No leaks, drips, or other haemorrhages seem to be taking place. Tyres seem to have somewhere between 40% and 50% of their life left in them. They'll do for now. The known issues: Ignition switch doesn't always engage the starter. A $10 Harbor Freight starter button is attached for the times where it doesn't do what it should. Will order new switch when I get tired of using the starter button. Starter was having a protracted death. Replaced it, everything's fine. Ignition switch problems may have been related to the tachymetric relay; repaired relay, awaiting long-term results. Tachymetric relay repair didn't hold. Replaced it. Speedo needle operates on a 'pick any number between...' basis; odometer and trip meter untrustworthy as a result. Speedo cable is waiting to go in. Tachometer is believed to be a liar. Claims cold idle speed of 2500 RPM, down to 1250 or so RPM warm. Engine doesn't sound anywhere near that. Need to get inductive tachometer to verify. Inductive tachometer confirmed that the mechanical one isn't even close to accurate below 2000 RPM; adjusted idle accordingly. Need to replace mechanical tachometer. Vacuum leaks everywhere were contributing to this. Going to manually reset tach needle to zero rpm when speedo cable is replaced and see what happens. Factory clamps on vacuum line joins are useless after 33 years; many vacuum leaks suspected as a result. Continuing to track these down; will start replacing hose clamps as I go. Failed brake booster was main cause of leaks. Replaced vacuum hoses; saw distinct improvement. Suspect one or two lingering leaks (there's one known one at the ventilation distribution controls) but overall much improved. Sensation of fuel delivery occasionally pulsing. Car came with almost a half-tank of 2.5-year-old fuel in the tank; topped it off with no-ethanol 87-octane and Seafoam. Still running the lousy gas out. Have now run out all of the old gas; car currently has a tank of fresh no-ethanol 87-octane in it. Got slightly better after half-assed throttle body cleaning with Seafoam via fuel evaporative line; will clean throttle body with entire ass and hope for further improvements. New fuel filter en route since I have no idea if the old one is full of mud or not. Replaced old filter; it was full of mud. Solved fuel pulsing issues. Electric radiator fan works when jumpered directly to battery or A/C is selected but does not automatically switch on when driving. Suspect switch in radiator; replacement is ordered and should be here next week. Switch is installed. However, the thermostat has also been replaced along with the coolant. Waiting to see if I can get it warm enough for the fans to kick in. Fan now not coming on at all; will investigate when not Winter. Suspect resistor pack. Warped brake disc at the front. Just going to replace all four discs and the pads plus flush the fluid; everything looks antiquated. Brakes otherwise functional, just not as good as they should be. Much better post-booster replacement. Speaking of the A/C, the compressor is seized and the belt to it has been cut and thrown away. Guessing that pretty much the entire system is going to need replacement. Cabin fan has exactly zero speeds. Fuses look fine. Windows roll down (and up) so will worry about this when it's not 100degF outside. Fan works on speeds 2 and 3 with some jiggling of the switch. Need to pull switch and clean contacts. Sunroof doesn't work, but, given that it's a 505, not an unexpected development. Avoiding this job unless being held at gunpoint to complete it. Still waiting on basic tune-up parts to arrive next week so haven't yet pulled the plugs, distributor cap, etc. to check them - I'd rather not start pulling things apart until replacements are on hand. Overall, it's a decent driver. Despite the running issues, it pulls surprisingly well (yes, I know how counterintuitive that sounds) and will make a decent car for getting around in. Looking forward to seeing where all of this ends up.
  5. I'm looking for a 505/604 diesel coolant expansion tank and you find cheap ones in Argentina, the thing is that just by looking at the plastic you can tell that it's not as good as OEM. So the question is are they worth buying and installing or do you have to change them after one year or two? And now for those interested it's story time, I want one to see if it can be made to fit on a 309 GTI16. On this car Peugeot used the exact same part except that they moved the nipple under the tank away from the exhaust manifold. GTI16: OEM 505 made in Argentina: Non OEM 505, it could be better as it's closer to the firewall: Maybe with a little plumbing and an heat shield GTI16 owners will have an OEM-looking alternative to worn out and overpricied water tanks.
  6. Looking for an European headlight for a peugeot 505, passenger side. Please call me at 562 356-7776 . Thanks ask for ruben
  7. Looking for an European headlight for a peugeot 505, passenger side. Please call me at 562 356-7776 . Thanks ask for ruben
  8. I bought a '87 505 STI 2.8L V6 Zn3j with ba10/5 transmission earlier this year and have been slowly cleaning it up. The next items to be changed out are the oil pan gasket and the spark plugs. I have done these on other cars and feel comfortable changing them. However, I'd like to know if there are any "special" steps that are required for these two processes with this engine? Also, what are the torque specifications for the oil pan bolts and the spark plugs? I checked the 505 and Zn3j manuals and have not been able to find this info. If you can help I'd really appreciate it.
  9. car starts at 1100 rpms when cold, runs smooth but after around 5 minutes the idle goes down to 950 and the vibration starts. I open the idle screw one third of a turn and the vibration stops. At around 8 minutes when the engine warms up the vibration returns so then I close the idle screw almost a one third of a turn from the end and the vibration stops but when I reb the engine it smokes a little because it needs more air, so if I open the idle screw and reb the engine the smoke goes away but about 2 minutes later the vibration returns. Any suggestions are welcome, Thanks
  10. I have inherited a 1983 Silver Edition 505s Turbo Diesel with 83,000 actual miles - one owner. The paint is rough and the body is straight. The turbo blew in 1997 and the car has been in a barn for 18 years. Incredibly the tires were up and it rolled onto the trailer just fine. I want to know if I should scrap the car or attempt to rebuild. I do not know where to start. It would need some major work on the turbo and paint. Otherwise it appears sound. What value, if any, does the car have as is? I have a clear title to the car and it is located in Paducah, Kentucky.
  11. I am selling my 1989 505 Turbo 5-speed sedan. It has just under 112,000 miles on the odometer, with about 500 miles traveled after the speedo cable broke. I have received a couple of offers over the past few months, but I don't fancy myself an exotic car dealer, so I am planning to list it on Bring a Trailer at no reserve. I could easily have flipped it with no effort at all, but instead I decided to give it some of the attention it deserves. This was a one-owner car until January. The original owner passed away in 2013, and it sat in a garage for a couple of years. Judging by the crack-free dash and leather, it spent the majority of its life under shelter. A logbook includes entries not just for major service, but for each and every tank of gas. The car originally lived in Maryland, then moved with its owner to Tennessee about 15 years ago. From what I've learned, they had several Peugeots, but this was the only one they kept. Here is a list of improvements since I brought the car home in February: • Euro headlamps • Valve adjustment • New spark plugs • Good set of OEM plug wires installed • Powdercoated valve cover, intercooler bracket, heat shield, and front lift bracket • Crappy nuts and washers replaced with proper metric stainless • Stripped and repainted intercooler • Rebuilt left front caliper and replaced brake hose • Brake light switch repaired • Fifth alloy wheel procured for spare • Side trim refurbished • Turbo intake hose repaired • PCV valve replaced • Side marker replaced • Damaged wheel center cap replaced • Catalytic converter heat shield repaired • Driver side mirror motor replaced • New old stock lower speedometer cable installed • Air filter housing customized to accept Lexus SC430 filters • Radio antenna motor replaced • Four new stereo speakers installed • Leather cleaned and conditioned • Window switch replaced I'm probably forgetting something. The sunroof works. All the windows work. The A/C does not at the moment, but I'll be checking that out this week. There is one spot of bubbling paint on the front left fender the size of a quarter, but underneath the chassis is cleaner than any Peugeot I've ever owned. Wait, that isn't saying much. Just look at the last couple of pictures. No holes, no splitting seams, no blistered wheel arches. The logbook mentions some bodywork and paintwork due to a tree branch falling on the car. There are three small dings still visible on the hood, but the paint is glossy and you can only see them from a certain angle. There is some smoke at startup - warm or cold - for about 3-5 seconds. Once running, it is smoke-free, whether on or off the throttle at speed. Over 500+ miles, driving from Knoxville, Tennessee, to Arlington, Virginia, the oil level changed by maybe 1-2mm. According to the logbook, both the cylinder head and turbo have been replaced. The car is on its fourth speedometer cable. This thing was babied by a proud owner who gave it whatever was needed. I have uploaded an album with more photos: https://flickr.com/phot…/41474352@N00/sets/72157665038087702 I will be taking more photos and a walk around video soon. I haven't even washed it yet. I just want the word to get around before the auction goes live. This is a rare opportunity, and I hope this car ends up in deserving hands. I can be reached at 703-231-9888 if you'd like to talk in person. Karl
  12. Hydropneumatic

    Front right

  13. Hydropneumatic

    Interior Dashboard

  14. Hydropneumatic

    Right rear

  15. Hydropneumatic

    Engine bay

  16. [CAR IS IN AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND] Price NegotiablePeugeot 505 GTI 1989Finished in light metallic blue with deep blue interior5 Speed MANUAL.2.2 Fuel injection model66000 miles currently. SMR Alloys.Currently legal on NZ roads.Try find a Peugeot 505 GTI in this good condition anywhere!These cars are solid and you can see why they are used extensively in parts of Africa because of their durability. The body panels are built more like a Mercedes of that period.The car has adjustable front seats, with lots of legroom both front and back.Electric windows all round, electric sunroof and electric door mirrors.Has original ALPINE tape deck.Huge boot.The GTI features, like rear spoiler and lower front valence, with front fog lamps and the standard SMR alloys.Completely original 505 that has been kept in near showroom condition it's whole life. - Manual- Original paint in perfect condition- 66,000 miles (approx 110,000kms)- Runs perfect, no mechanical issues- Everything is original (even has original receipt of purchase in 1988 for $54000 NZD)- Beyond extensive handwritten service record- No rust anywhere on the carSo the car will need to be imported if you are overseas, which is why I am setting the price lower than the average 505 for sale on this site, even though this car is in far superior condition. I have loads more pictures, and am willing to negotiate on price, just flick me an email!
  17. Looking to buy an operational sedan. I live in California and Nevada but am willing to visit most anywhere to check out a car. Preferably diesel/manual transmission and interior in pretty good condition. Even if the car does not fall between 79-86 or is not diesel/manual I may still be interested. Please contact at 702-427-2393 or cdough42@gmail.com.
  18. I picked up this 1988 GLX for parts to resurrect a 1989 STX. I primarily need some fuel and electronic bits along with the interior carpet, headliner, and sunroof parts. I plan to scrap the body, so if there are any parts you are looking for, post here and I'll let you know if it's usable. Reasonable prices, willing to ship. I hate to scrap a running V6, but with 258k it's probably not worth the effort to pull. But I could be convinced otherwise. Karl Nelson Arlington, VA 703-231-9888
  19. Hydropneumatic

    image

    From the album: 1988 505 GLX V6

  20. Hi Everyone > Lifelong Citroën fanatic, recently started getting into Peugeots. After resurrecting a 1975 604 last summer and letting it go on eBay in November, I went looking for my next project. Somehow I've ended up with two: a 1983 505 XN6 bucket of worms, and a 1986 505 Turbo with an unknown list of needs that would hopefully make a presentable driver. Considering it only cost me $400 and had a good set of tires, I figured I could at least break even just selling the wheels and tires to a vintage Subaru fan and scrapping the rest. Trouble is, the interior and body are really clean, and I'd feel horrible taking it the crusher. I'd like to keep it on the road, but I'm hoping for some input before getting too deep into the project. I finally had time to do some exploratory work yesterday, and found several issues. The car has been parked for two years or so since it stopped running. The fuel pump fuse was blown, but replacing it didn't get the car to start. It turned over and seemed like it wanted to catch, but never did. Radiator proved to be empty. I pulled the intercooler and found oil inside, and more in the up pipe along with what looked like coolant. Digging deeper, I found one of the spark plug wires detached and completely corroded. All of the hoses surrounding the turbo are pretty much toast. The turbo impeller is covered with corrosion, but there doesn't seem to be any axial play. The valve cover had clearly been leaking oil badly; two of the nuts holding it on weren't even tight. Once I pulled off the cover, I found sludge and coolant mixed with the oil in the cylinder head, but the timing chain and cam lobes look clean, so I think they've avoided long-term damage. I'm willing to put $500-600 into getting this car going again, but I really don't want to go beyond that. It's an automatic with 115k, and a nicer looking one from California with leather and a thousand-dollar head unit just went for $1799 on eBay a few days ago. Would a new set of seals be enough to fix the turbo, or does the corrosion on the impeller imply that it's beyond saving? Can I find replacements for the dry/cracked hoses? Do the parts and machine shop work add up to more than the car would be worth in running condition? Thanks for any input, Karl http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/345-peugeot505turbo1/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/344-peugeot505turbo2/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/343-peugeot505turbo3/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/342-peugeot505turbo4/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/341-peugeot505turbo5/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/340-peugeot505turbo6/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/339-peugeot505turbo7/ http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/image/338-peugeot505turbo8/
  21. Let's start with the ugly: the Cylinder head is failing. It is almost certainly cracked, and it is leaking. It would be nice to keep it in the family, so I'm posting this here first. I've owned this 1986 Peugeot 505 N9Te wagon for over 14 years. It's my second 505 (the 1983 STI was driven away at 220,000 miles) and it has served as a luxury car and a hauler of astonishing loads. The problem is that I'm going through another episode of life changes, and just don't want to do the mechanical work on another car. And the last Peugeot mechanic in the Bay Area is an hour away by car - and 2-3 hours by transit for pick up. This is an entirely rust-free vehicle (no surface corrosion, bubbles or "spots"); it was first sold and always kept in the semi-arid regions of California. No damage, dents or holes. It retains a beautiful, blue interior with supple leather, all athe carpeting, and dashboard are intact. All insturments and lights work. What else? I'm asking $2000 Who am I? Craig Parada Alviso (San Jose), CA (408) 263-2761 [fixed] (408) 772-5480 [mobile & text] craig [dot] parada [at] sbcglogal [dot] net The car has 145,000 Miles on it. Silver-Gray exterior, dark blue interior The ZF4HP22 automatic transmission (rebuilt two years ago) works perfectly. New tires (and I mean new) on original 15" alloys New battery Alternator has new diodes (waited too long on the battery) All suspension and brake components are good Passed smog 2014 registration complete It is equipped with all the mid-1980s luxuries: · Cruise control · Climate control · Air conditioning (works, but you know this isn't American A/C) · Heated seats (both work) · Rear window washer · "Euro" (Argentine) glass headlamps amber (legal) · Fog lights - amber to match the headlamps · Peugeot roof rack (to go between the standard rails) · Peugeot mud flaps · Lightly tinted rear and side windows · Custom trailer hitch (that doesn't interfere with the spare) · Electric fans replaced the clutch fan · AM/FM radio with CD, 6-speakers (antenna no longer retracts) · Electric windows (one slow, switches fussy) · Power door locks (inexplicibly stop working occasionally, but usually work fine) · Plip remote door lock transmitter and matching receiver (never installed, and still in the box). · Trip-odometer doesn't reset Photos at http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/user/1203-craig-in-alviso/
  22. Wales

    Rearview

    From the album: 505 GTI 3.0 V6

    © Wales 2014

  23. I bought a 1986 Peugeot 505 S (Late 1985 chassis) and I can't get it to idle. Cleaned all grounds and connections, changed most light bulbs, checked crank sensor and few other sensors, checked relays, checked fuses, checked auxiliary air valve, tightened all hoses and checked for leaks, cleaned air system, checked distribution rotor by taking it entirely apart, looked at two spark plugs, checked vacuum systems, checked fuel system (replaced fuel pump and filter even). Replaced ECM with a 0280 800 056 recommended by RockAuto.com, OE: 0280 800 066 core (swapped both in and out multiple times testing). Engine is good with no white stuff inside the engine. XN6 2.0L Inline 4 Cylinder, RWD, Bosch K-Jet Fuel Injected and 4 speed automatic, Peugeot 505S, Canadian/American version (LHD). Recent Service Here is all the last services performed by me and previous owner. I do not really want to put much more money into this vehicle and rather kinda sell or part now. I don't have mechanical experience. Within 0KM (My work since died) Bosch Fuel Pump with vibration rubber (upgrade) and Fuel Filter (NAPA GOLD) Cleaned Air System and topped up oil level in it.Brand new ignition coil. (DIDN'T CHANGE CONDENSER).Topped up power steering levels.Brand New BatteryECM (OE: 0280800066 core - ECM: 0280800056) - Both are working and swapped both in and out to test it multiple times.Thermo-lining Heat Shield and Sound Absorber Light bulbs and head lamps all changed Detailed and cleaned interior (Power polished, waxed, clay barred, and more). Rubberized Spray entire Undercarriage and Engine Bay areas, and Exhaust Muffler Tip Within Last 1000KM (Previous owner) Alternator Upgraded from 80A from 70A Water Pump Thermostat Belts Oil Pressure Sensor Cooling Fan Switch Head Gasket Valve Cover Gasket Spark Plug Tube Seals Spark Plugs & Wire Oil and Filter Fresh Coolant Valve Timing Engine Timing Idle Set Within the Last 5000KM (Previous owners work) Rebuilt Rear Calipers, New Pads Coolant Thermal-Time Switch and Auxiliary Air Valve New Trunk Lock and Barrel Central Locking Electronics Service Within the Last 10,000KM (Previous owners work) New Distributor Rotor (CAP)Oxygen Sensor Brand New Winter Tires SOLUTION: 91 octane was in it instead of 87 octane. The timing was wrong.
  24. Wales

    '86 505 GTI 3.0 V6

    Hello everyone, Okay, so the thing is, in short form, I have installed a ZPJ V6 engine from 605 to 505 gti. And as I really dont know how common this particular engine swap is worldwide, and because I think many of you would like to see my version of it, I registered to this forum. The car had 2.0l ZEJ-engine as I got it. But lets begin with the project itself. So two years ago I bought a really nice looking 505 GTI from "not so convincing" owner. So the car was leaking gasoline and didnt start even after half minutes of start grinding, the electricity was done bad REALLY BAD, test drive was total disaster, but yet so hilarious as we saw that the previous owner didnt know anything about cars. But I was in love for the 505, especially for this one, hence the paintwork and additional lights and the price wasn't so bad, so I bought it. The price was tight, and it wasn't negotiable because "It would bring bad luck", said the previous owner. I can't even imagine what would happen if we had even slightest bad luck with us! So after we came down to our home city, the car almost bursted into flames.. There was smoke coming inside the interior carpet, luckily we managed to locate the faulty switch, that was the engine fan's on/off switch that the previous owner had re-located inside the cabin.. So now you see why I teared the whole car upside down to get rid of the sh*tty wiring and stuff. The whole car's electricity system was f**ked up, and I got two plastic bags of wires that I threw away. The wires were build following this rule: about 7 cm wire (3"), then a connector, and same again.. And the most of the connector's weren't even protected in any way! At this point, as most of the wires needed complete rebuild, I hit my eyes on my extra ZPJ engine, which I had bought for spareparts to my 605 SV 3.0. So that's where everything started. First of all, I built a stand for the ZPJ engine, and by doing so I figured it was running and in good condition. I knew it would not be easy to fit the 3.0l frontwheeldrive engine to the 505, as the oilpan, clutch cover and enginemounting's will not fit straight. I didnt know that the pedals, distributor and the whole brake system required heavy modding as well. As the V6 engine was in good condition, it was time to get the proper gearbox and clutch cover. I found the gearbox from V-M. I used BA10/5 box in this vehicle. My friend made the clutch cover from combining the 505 Turbo Injection clutch cover and the 605 SV3.0 clutch cover. After plenty of measuring and fitting, we had a clutch cover, that connected the BA10/5 to the zpj engine. We fit the Turbo Injection's hydraulic clutch cylinder to our clutch cover. So now that the clutch cover was ready, we needed proper bottom end to engine, otherwise the oilpan doesn't fit. I used the same that can be found in ZN3J, it fits directly to ZPJ. It was time to first fit test and bang, the powerbrake and climate blower was in the way, so I removed them. After that, the engine fits in its place quite nice. At this point, I knew I have to mod the powerbrake system and distributor in order to get the pedal box fit. So I used 205 gti's powerbrake, a 605 brake master cylinder, and lowered the pedalbox 5 cm (2"), turned the distributor 120 degrees with the help from my friend and mod the valvecover very little.. After those "little" tweaks, as I call them, the engine fitted in place just fine. So now I needed the engine mountings.. This was the end of summer 2012, and as I dont have an garage,and it is really nasty to do anything outside during winter time as your fingers freeze and drop out, there was an inevitable break.. All good stories come with sequals, so will this one too Just kidding, but I have been writing this for an 1.5 hours now and clock is eleven at night + early morning, so I will continue writing this tomorrow.. If anybody has or has done, or you know somebody that has or has done similar project, I am more than happy to hear about that. I will add millions (maybe not millions, but at least 10 ) of images later also.. By the way, I have couple of videos in youtube about this car. This may be the best one: Best regards, Wales
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