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andrethx

two new peugeots

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savo -- :)

a bit more progress -- installing the crankset. an important thing to remember (i didn't) -- the fixing bolts for the crankset don't come with the crankset or with the bottom bracket, you have to get them separately. the ones i got used an 8mm hex:

PhotoJun1223252PM_zpse5d3eec4.jpg

fortunately, the crank bolt torque setting was the same as the bottom bracket torque setting, so i didn't have to adjust my torque wrench.

this next shot shows the crankset and the crank arm installed, the only trick is to make sure they are facing in the opposite direction or you're going nowhere. :P that cable guide came with the frame; it's the only piece of the original bike that i'm reusing. the serial number is stamped into the bottom of the bb shell next to the cable guide:

PhotoJun1223533PM_zps40fa0ffc.jpg

progress to date:

PhotoJun1223820PM_zps69f1a716.jpg

andré

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another non-car update. :)

had a bit of time today so i mounted the cassette on the rear wheel. because these hubs are intended for 8/9 speed cassettes and i am using a 7-speed cassette, i had to put a spacer on first. this is done all of the time, the spacer one uses in this situation is 4.5 mm:

PhotoJun1613421PM_zpse95860f3.jpg

next comes the cassette. it's hard to see in these photos, but one of the splines on the freehub body is bigger than the others, so the freehub body and the cassette are "keyed" to each other:

PhotoJun1613532PM_zpsa4b0195e.jpg

next comes the spacer (the thing that looks like a black cog) which is keyed like the cassette, then the lockring. as usual, there is a special tool to tighten down the lockring.

PhotoJun1613911PM_zpsce57ef3f.jpg

below is a view of the spacer. the alternative to using a spacer would be to change the freehub body to a 7-speed freehub body. this is fairly easy to do, but if one does this then the rear wheel in question will no longer be properly dished -- the shorter freehub body will make the wheel lopsided, and the wheel will have to be re-dished because the hubs are now 130mm instead of 135. i decided to use a spacer not only because it is cheaper and easier -- a US$2.50 spacer vs. $20-$40 to have the wheels re-dished (plus the cost of the new freehub body) -- but also because the current standard for mountain bike wheels (26 inch diameter) is a 135mm wide hub, so i would have been left with a non-standard rear wheel size if i had changed out the freehub body and had the wheel re-dished. this way, if the rear wheel ever gets destroyed, i can swap it out easily.

PhotoJun1614008PM_zps920eeab4.jpg

andré

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