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Twin Turbo PRV V6...

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Rightous car there, Glen. Don't see too many of those.

Not too many of us know much about the PRV engine. Only that the Peugeot variant is the best. :D However, you probably already know that and the why. I think the Peugeot V6 has a forged crank. With (I think again) 30 degree crank offsets for smoother firing pulses to make up for the fact it's a 90° V6. Something I'd figure would be pretty important for a high-HP PRV.

I've never heard of any hop-up parts for it, I'm sure you're way ahead of us there.

XM huh... You must hail from Europe. Most of us don't have such cool cars locally.

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Hi Glen!

Welcome to the forum!

You have a gorgeous car there, and it sounds like it'll have all the go to match the show once you're done! We never got the 3 valve heads here in NA - but by the sounds of your mods I thing 220 HP is shooting low... unless you mean at the wheels.

With respect to finding who knows the most about turbo PRV's - without a doubt I'd have to say John Lane in the States - he campaigns a turbo PRV Volvo rally car that is making INSANE power reliably... I've spoken to him about what it would take to turbo my even fire 2.8L engine (88' 505 GLX) and he said he could provide the custom connecting rods and pistons that he uses in his engine... He's also running a Techmotive stand alone so he'd be able to help with tuning as well if you used something similar. (Basically everything he needed to build up his engine)

If you can provide some contact info I'll see if I can put you two in touch to get you what you need... Man - stuffing a V6 turbo into the 505 Turbo would be a sweet upgrade... :D

Rabin

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Looks to me like the ports are capable of carrying alot; is there an aftermarket cam(s) avabile ?

Thats where modifying an American V8 is cost effective : cam & lifters are usually under $100.

N9TE - I'd bet money the crank is forged; even the 97 hp XN6 has a forged crank.

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Guest

of course the PRV's crank is forged!

powerfull PRV:

2.5L turbo (Renault 25 V6 Turbo_ Alpine V6 Turbo)------------->185 to 205hp

2.8L atmo "Boulogne" (Alpine)------------------------------------->195hp (but with old crank, so bad torque)

3.0L turbo (Alpine A610)-------------------------------------------->250hp

3.0L twinturbo (Renault Safrane Bi-Turbo)------------------------>267hp

3.0L (24V I think) turbo (MVS Venturi 300 Atlantique)----------->300hp

3.0L 24V twinturbo (MVS Venturi 400GT)-------------------------->400hp

about the 267hp version, it has been made by Hartge, forged pistons, performance valves, two turbos... and nothing more!! The PRV isn't a fragile engine.

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Couple of comments. In comp.ratio 11:1 and turbos will result very high power and eaven shorter life for engine (maybe only one try). With good engine management and and knocking detection 9:1 will do nicely.

Then comment on that last post 240hp on wheels is not 300hp on flywheel. If 60hp is lost in between engine and wheels those things (gearbox and rear gear) will melt. Power loss in manual gear in between 8-12% and in automat 12-16% (I did use in calculation 16%).

V-M

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Now all of this was years ago. A loooooot of work, custom building, and a great deal of money. Not many people know how to make real power out of PRV`s. It has been a long way and still is. Always trying to find better ways, better flow, better timing, etc. No one have really tried to work with timing the cams correctly. Making timing gear and work with timing is my next thing. UN1 gearbox is slow-shifting, Porsche 997 6 speed gearbox is on the floor ready to be build in.  Power-wise, now thats a secret. But low 10 sec times to the 1/4 mile is next thing. The car is street legal in EU with turbo, and have all the correct papers, that was NOT cheap. Everything is always for sale, for the right price. Offers less then 50k is not a seriously offer. 

I do help people with cylinder heads, making them do a perfect flow, but it is time consuming. 

IMG_0303.JPG

 

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Beautiful car Glen, is easy to see a properly built car, starts with AN 6 fuel system, aeromotive A1000-6 fuel regulator blow off valve properly mounted and that beautiful handmade intake manifold, nice work, what are you running for engine management?

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Greetings guys... 

Late to the party but have a client with a PRV powered Pug who wants to make it break drivetrain parts.

I figure it is about time I stopped in to say hello!

i'm the guy with the turbocharged PRV six.  It goes like heck. 

Any turbo V-6 projects cooking lately? 

John Lane

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Yes John I'm toying with a B280F I have. Twin turbo from a 1JZ-GTE. Just started inspecting the heads which have swirl intake ports. 46mm inlet valves and 39mm ex. I think it just needs to be done. I'll retain the pistons etc and make up a quick spooling auto sleeper.  I'd enjoy some input from you for sure!

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Stewart....

Swirl port heads are restrictive... Find the Even-firing three liter as fitted to Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco from '88-'91(?)... I forget years of model range.   Late engines got a water pump without the elbow hoses.  They all got 'E' heads so much improved intake flow, a bigger oil pump, hydraulic lash adjusters and tame cam profiles.  Give this one modest boost with plenty of attention paid to engine management and you may even be able to avoid breaking a ring land.   When that happens give it forged pistons, H-beam rods and it will be good to go.   Want to get really silly?   I've stroked the crankshaft for a nice runner.   

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Thanks for that SRDT. I have a pair of 2.7 heads already set up so I may use them. The swirl heads have some merit that I can see so I may just rework them. Did the Eagle B280F end up making over 200 HP?  

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I don't know about this one but you can get 195hp out of a B28E with two weber 46 IDA 3C, headers and -1mm on the heads.

These 2.7 heads are oddfire? They are not the best, and you need to use an oddfire manifold or the 2.5 turbo one. The 3.0 heads got the biggest valves and better intake port design.

Speaking about the B280F heads swirl and squish are supposed to lessen knock but in this particular case is that better than an unrestricted B280E head?

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Funny that you posted that link on TurboBricks  SRDT - Matt also posted a thread on a local Calgary Volvo Forum site that I found a few years ago.  http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1043

It was this post that led me to this small Volvo forum, and I've since become friends with some of the guys on there including Matt.  I actually bought my 06' V70R with Matt and Dale's help - awesome car guys.  (Check out Craig's 122 build thread if you get a chance!:  http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2227)

I can't help with too much on the V6 side - I made a choice (possibly regretting now) to focus my build on the N9TE turbo 4cyl - in retrospect I should have collected V6 cars and boosted them...  Ah well.

Rabin

 

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Hi Rabin!

See how i go. I'll make manifolds if it requires. Bit more thinking and calculating. I have an evenfire 2850 as a starter and an 2.7 oddfire with some very good proven parts. I just checked in my garage and found a rebuilt holset HX 35 , twin scroll exhaust housing too. Hmmm.

 

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Just checked what I have for this craziness. Will be using pro ported 44 mm inlet oddfire heads. R30 exhaust manifolds or  custom. I have the twin plenum Inlet man or a 605 inlet to choose from. 6 x EP6 injectors. 2x ca12 a Toyota turbos and a HX35 Holset. Plus evenfire cross bolt engine 2850cc and an oddfire 2.7. Doesn't seem I need to spend too much more to build this one up out of two. Just need engine management, cams and springs and gaskets. 

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Stewart do you plan to run balance shafts in your build? I've driven lots of v6, v8 powered cars, and always thought they should be shaky and slow revving, until i drove a 605 v6 3.0 i was impressed how smoth that engine is and how freely it revs, in fact i like it so much i bought that car.

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The 605 inlet manifold won't bolt on oddfire heads, for the balance shaft on evenfire PRV Peugeot was the only one to use it on a longitudinal engine so without it the engine won't be super smooth... but still good enough by Volvo and Renault standards.

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Thanks for your interest . I'm checking and gathering the assemblies over the next few days. I'm still not convinced my HX35 is as good as I could have, as a turbo for smokin' street/track work. Maybe HX 35 is oversize.

GOCE I'm going to run a very finely balanced evenfire PRV. I also have a pretty hot oddfire engine which is silky smooth, apart from the 90 /150 firing at idle. Work for money tomorrow morning then i;ll post some piccies! Should be cool.

 

Bean? Do you have a turbo suggestion, please? 

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No piccies yet as I have been involved in major works on two 403 Peugeot sedans. I have got a preliminary layout though.

Starting with two reworked CT12A Hitachi turbo's off a 1JZ Soarer, 

Will be running B280F crossbolt short engine.

I have oddfire heads ported and flowed from a previous build.

Twin plenum long runner Bosch K inlet manifold.

I will make exhaust manifolds to suit. 

Power steering and A/C also.

Toying with laminova heat exchangers in the twin plenums

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On 1/8/2018 at 1:12 PM, JohnLane said:

Stewart how are you doing with your project? 

John, I've been busy learning a few software programs and rebuilding clients projects. Pipemax, Controlled Induction and the Megasquirt system and using Tuner Studio. I have set up from scratch a Megasquirt 2 V 3.57 to run a Mini BMC A engine on batch fire injection, wasted spark and intercooled turbo. Hardest part was learning technical terms used in USA. Confused the hell out my Bosch/French tech trained brain. During the set up I had to diagnose and repair a damaged ECU board with blown driver transistors for ignition and an intermittentnt tooth trigger fault from a VR crank sensor. I joined Digi-key as a customer and tracked down one of the best Hall effect crank sensors they have for our engine stuff. 

This bought me to sequential injection for my projects using only hall effect sensors, no damn VR any more for me. I intend to use an idea which struck me to time injectors to 0.050" inlet valve timing for low speed and idle. One reason is to make completely sure the starting fuel can be very finely set while attempting start up on an unmapped ECU.

 

My even fire crank needs damage repaired but the rest of the engine should work OK. I have cams already which will yield a good result. They lift 8.74mm on the 44 mm valve. I am building a head flow bench at the moment so I can use what I have and the software to have a lot of fun with.

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