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NinaYo401

505 12hr drive

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Only one side of my turn signal is working.  Took a peak at that sorry looking circuit board, definitely seen better days.

also a Vacuum noise in the passenger dash corner, goes away with pedal press?

any advise?

 

 

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For the indicators, try changing the light bulbs first, also check for ground and corrosion at the bulb sockets, the rear tail light are renown for their bad grounds, the car itself looks alright, couple of dings and dents but solid with decent paint.

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The photos don’t do justice.

 

how do you get into the indicator housing?  Particularly the front ones?  Couple oddball loose wires terminated with butt connection. 

Id really like to get the radio going.

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Just now, Bean said:

Happy with putchase?

Rabin

It’s more of a relief having acquired this particular obsession.  Kind of a relief.  

But I guess this is where the rubber meets the road, in terms of what should I do with it?

i might attempt resale, but I think I like it.  It’s just, how crafty do I want to get with this car.

Oil change, turn signal repair, radio.

Possibly drain & fill ATF, and change diff fluid.  Looks like it needs belts.  Might make a lower radiator hose.

I got it to help me keep my volvo going, so I can get to work with this alternative, instead of limping with occasional minor issues 

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Having two cars give you relief you'll always have something to drive but also is one more member to maintain and spend money on, all my adult life i've had at least two registered cars, one as daly other as a spare, manly to drive when doing maintenance or if i wreck my daly driver, all Peugeot i've owned have been exesonaly reliable and fun to drive, i hate the dull rubbery ride all cars have now days, my practice with any car i buy is to go thru it fix all the essentials full service good detail cleaning and drive it and do scheduled maintenance. I'm also driving a lot, 3-500 km a day and is not uncommon to double that during the summer.

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Any insight into the vacuum leak noise I’m hearing?  It’s in the dash, US spec driver side, left of dash.

 

i don’t want to burn out a brake booster or anything vacuum pump or anything of that sort.  

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If is coming from the brake booster that can be a ripped diaphragm and when you press the brake pedal the diaphragm seals agas the housing, this is simple to diagnose, by removing and plugging the vacuum hose for the vacuum booster at the engine side and start the engine if there is no noise is the booster, there is no electronics there to burn out but failed brake booster is a safety concern.

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Just buy an new brake booster or a used one they are not a serviceable item.

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They are easy to change couple of bolts on many cars you can just move the master cylinder a side and don't need to bleed the entire system.

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It’s just getting to those 4 nuts on the inside of the firewall.  Dow do I get back in that area?  I might run an 8awg for an Amplifier and a dedicated lead for the headunit while in there.

i wonder if I should source a circuit board or make folk art project of a replacement.

broken horn push also, so add a new stalk to the wish list.

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Sence you in car stereo, don't forget to drill 5 holes in the firewall and don't use rubber grommets, leave it for the next guy to deal with it, haha. 

 

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8 minutes ago, Goce said:

Sence you in car stereo, don't forget to drill 5 holes in the firewall and don't use rubber grommets, leave it for the next guy to deal with it, haha. 

 

I just quickly tape my ground wire to a painted surface so I can focus on mounting my amplifiers heatsink down.

i wonder if there is an existing channel to route an 8awg.

is there a technique for getting at the nuts securing the booster to the firewall?

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Good job.

The wipers could well need the axles lubricated.  On my 404C they were ridiculously dry and super SLOW.  I got new ones.

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There should be a big rubber grommet with no wires thru it on the passenger side just above the blower motor, i suggest you use it as is away from the engine harness and you won't get any strange interference when you use the stereo. The brake booster has 4 13mm nuts on the back you must access them from inside the car above the pedals, two extensions and a swivel make the job a lot easier also smaller hands get less scraps, don't forget to undo the clevis pin to the pedal.

 

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Booster nuts are accessible from inside like Goce advised, but you need to put the driver seat way back and get right into the footwell to do it.  :) Boosters can be rebuilt, but not a DIY type deal.  Also sounds like the vacuum seal against the actuator rod is the issue - if it was the diaphram you wouldn't have assisted braking.

Also wanted to mention that people don't usually do well flipping Peugeot's - if it's not for you sell it with minimal time and money invested in it.

If you like it - spend the money to fix and enjoy it for yourself with the understanding that you most likely won't have any ROI unless you drive and enjoy it.

Rabin

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The car is enjoyable so far.  Aside from the turn signal issue.

I need to fix the signal first.  Maybe a new stalk or circuit board, if bulbs don’t fix it.

if i can replace the booster myself, and I’m still enjoying it, I’ll bring it to stage 1.

once I change the oil I’ll check out the PCV.  How do you open that canister?  Clean it with gas?  Or a spray cleaner?

Thanks to everyone on this forum, so I’m not alone with this project.  I  genuinely appreciate everyone’s input and interest.

This car interested me far more than a redblock Volvo, and aside from the sunroof, is exactly what I want in a car, once it’s tuned up and squared away.

might look into white reust converter paint for the few flaws along the inside bottom of the doors and so forth.

with turn signals I can get to the car wash to get this salt off, and park it till I get a booster.  

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If only one side works on the side indicators is probably wire or the indicator stalk because it uses the same relay for both sides only the stalk changes the side to which is connected, did you try the hazerts ( all indicators at once), do all the indicators work than, if not start with the connectors and wiring

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Fixed the signals.  So cold today, was afraid to work on those fragile wires.  Should have used a heat gun, but it went back together.

blue wire was snapped off indicator.  But it was rearranged to go straight to a black wire in the bulb socket, so butt connection fixed the front.  

Corrosion on the socket in the tail light.

picked up some oil to do a change.

managed to reach a single booster bolt.  Wish I could oil the knee bolster or something to get in there easier.  My hands aren’t small.  

What weight does the rear diff take?  80w90?  75w110? 

I wonder if I should go to synth power steering instead of atf or whatever dark fluid is in there.  Or full synth atf.   Can you use chf 11s? 

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Best way to reach those booster bolts i've found is to lay on the seat upside down, head in the foot were back on the seat bottom and legs over the headrest and you can see all the way up to the dash vents, head pillow can come in handy if you have cheap tools. Rear diff takes 80w90 oil, about 1,3 liters, fill it till starts to run out of the fill hole, power steering uses dexron 2 and from experience you should not put anything else but dexron 2 if you don't want leaks.

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Considering Febi 08972, a Mercedes certified Dex 2 spec power steering fluid as opposed to ATF.  

Ordered a used booster.  bidding on an air filter, which seems like a real PITA to get at.

I'll find some diff fluid, and lube the center carrier of the drive shaft.  

I'm trying to figure out the crush washer situation for the drains on this car.  What are the washers?  Are they the same on all drains?

Does the trans, engine, and diff all utilize the same size drain plug gasket?  Copper or aluminum?

Whats the oil volume for an engine drain and fill?  I bought 5qts, enough?

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Your car has an excellent oil bath filter system that only requires cleaning and fresh oil.  Flows exceptionally well, and filters better so there's no advantage to replacing.

Dex 2 PS rated fluid should be fine as well.  Copper washers can be reused with success if you anneal them with heat if they're solid, if they're crush washers I replace them.  Aluminum or copper washers work equally well and I've had success finding the right size at local auto parts shops.

5qts should be enough.  Make sure yo check and clean pcv screens as well.

Rabin

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30 minutes ago, Bean said:

Make sure yo check and clean pcv screens as well.

Rabin

That canister is in there.  How does it open?

I don’t have any experience with oil filled air filters.  Like on construction equipment.

is there a guide for the air filter?

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