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The word "drains" got me little confused but i figured you're talking about the drain plugs, the engine drain plugs have M16x1,5 thread so an M16 copper washers should do the job, i can't remember right maybe the fill plug on the diff was taper thread meaning it uses teflon tape, as for the key they all should be 8mm square, i've made my own from and old socket extension, with and angle grinder cut a square and grounded it to fit, there is some pictures that can give you an idea how to change the diff oil in my RWD conversion thread i'll put an link here: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3254-91-405mi16x4-rear-wheel-drive-conversion-north-south-engine/&page=1

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Where do I fill my oil?  Is that funky non-cap looking thing with the two broken off hoses?

Do i need a different Oil cap?  Notice my Power steering reservoir is empty.  Greasy mark on my front passenger tire.  Is that the rack leaking, or are there potentially leaky rubber lines?  I was hearing some groan on sharp turns.  Guess that's why I've been contemplating PS fluid.  

 

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That funky cap was correct.  I've never had a press on oil cap before.

 

I splashed 100ml of atf in the reservior.  I don't have dex 2. Couldn't find any leaks, just a greasy mark on the tire, so who knows.  I'll check it tomorrow, see if if its still there.  

I know of one can, $14 quart of dex 2.

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Where is the radio fuse on this thing?  

None of those maxi fuses seemed burnt, but the mid section of the circuit board traces seemed toast.

even if I run a dedicated positive  12volt for the radio, I’ll need a trigger.  Is there a circuit which is constant once the key is inserted? 

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This engine bay looks pretty bad, indoor charger, on top of the fan shroud, diy red wires and relay, universal radiator hose that is kinked, Peugeot runs a external hydraulic cylinder next to the steering rack and they are very reliable, never had one leak, they can get greasy and dirty but simple cleaning gets them looking good, for the radio there are two fuses F4 10A and F12 5A if i remember right, one is 12+ from the battery and other is switched power from the acc circuit, depending on the trim level, peugeot has lots of wires going to the radio connectors, like lights power, electric antenas, factory amplifier, antenna amplifier and many others, also there is usually an fues on the back of the radio it self that is worth checking.

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Agree with Goce - that upper rad hose needs to get replaced ASAP.  It's a trapped air pocket waiting to happen.

Oil filter cap looks like the PCV canister cap.  Valve cover should have a separate hose on it for PCV that goes to air cleaner.

12V test light or a multimeter is what you need to find the stereo power wires. 

Rabin

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Radiator hoses for Sti?  I’m assuming those are tough to find.  

Radiator upper CH1892

Lower CH1893

upper and lower, and a thermostat.  

What thermostat?  There’s a Chinese made one with a plastic housing.  And some loose ones.

whats the gasket situation in there?

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I have no experience with those particular engine but most likely it has the older bigger style thermostat, i'll recommend if is working don't mess with it, you'll remove better part then you'll install, the thermostat on my 605 engine had over 2 million kilometers before it failed, here is a thread on how it looked after all that time.

Link: 

 

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Any chance my brake booster hiss is related to the PCV system?

considering my missing hose, should I be worried?  I need to trace those hoses, but it’s so cold out.

couldn't find an 8mm square.  Actually ended up ordering a 5/16 square drain plug socket.

 

 

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The 5/16 won't work.  In a pinch, I have ground down a 3/8 extension from a socket set, and even a pair of trusty channel locks / vise grips.  It will work, provided that the previous mechanic didn't over tighten it.

I believe Snap On makes an 8mm square, either a socket or a wrench, but that might be special order.  There is a dedicated Peugeot wrench (8 and 10mm) that I use that is used on both the oil drain and the differential plugs. On more than one occasion I have encountered overtightened drain plugs from new purchases.

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5/16 = 7.938mm, won’t work in lieu of 8mm?

What spec coolant does this 86 505 Sti drink?  Pretty sure it’s full of GM Dex-cool at the moment.

Must the brake fluid reservoir be drained before unbolting and disconnecting from the booster?

Can I use dot 4?  I'll extract and fill a few times with a large syringe.  The gar brakes very well. 

 

I'd like to install pads and rotors and lubricate the brakes soon.  possibly just explore and clean / dab of lubricant first. 

 

I haven't jacked the car up yet.  I noticed there are sturdy looking frame rails.  should I try to place my jack under there?  There appears to be a central jack point in the front?   Mine looks to have a little touch of rust, which i should probably address with a wire brush followed with  white encapsulation or converter spray.  It's too cold for that at the moment.  I'd rather not jack the front center, which would block access to the oil pan anyway.

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You might be okay using the 5/16 square. I have never done that only because I have never had to.

Do you have a manual?  On jacking, you really have to be careful.  There are specific jacking points.  Anywhere else risks bending.  The round crossmember in the front and the ones toward the front on the rear wheels.  At this point, I would jack one wheel at a time and use jackstands along with a wheel chock.  I say that because lifting both wheels at the front crossmember risks jack slippage.  There should be a slot where the factory jack goes, but it in the way of centering a floor jack.

On the brakes,  I would address getting the bleeders loose first, as the system will need to be bled.  Caution is in order, as they can be easily broken if you are not careful.  I heat them up and soak with something like PB blaster being careful where I point the flame.  Be sure they are cool, and use an 8mm hex socket and a 1/4 ratchet. Don't force them and be patient.  Be careful around rubber brake parts, as any petroleum based lube will not mix at all with the rubber. In fact, it destroys it.

A clean new turkey baster is sufficient to get most out of the master.

I use Dot 3 and plenty of it, as I like to flush the system completely when doing it.  There's a bunch of tips / tricks with working on the calipers and bleeding the system.

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For changing the brake booster you don't need to drain the reservoir or open the system at all, unbolt the master cylinder and tie it up with a bungee cord and remove the booster and install the new one. When jacking up a vehicle to work under, i support it with as many jack stands as i can and always do it on a level ground.

 

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On 12/8/2018 at 2:36 AM, Goce said:

don't forget to undo the clevis pin to the pedal.

How do you undo the clevis?  There isn’t a clear depiction in my manual.  Is it intuitive?

and the fluid won’t spill out of the master cylinder when the booster is detached?  

Manual says to use a new gasket.  I don’t have a new gasket, and I’ll be installing a used part.  

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The clevis pin has a split pin or a C clip holding it on one side by removing it you can pull out the pin it self. Every manuel refers always use new gasket, but those gaskets never wear down, i've reused them, if is too bad make your own from paper or gasket material, as for spilling use common sense, tee it up by the reservoir cap i've never had issue with spilling it, if you spill some, use water it cleans brake fluid very well.

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