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NinaYo401

505 facelift heater control valve & climate control

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So my 86 sti 505 has no heat at the moment, or intermittent at best.  It was working a few hours into my 12 hour maiden voyage home after purchasing the car. 

The other day I was enjoying the heat, but was feeling overwhelmed and decided to try my luck by adjusting the temperature control slider.  I moved it from the top to about 1/4 down around 85.  That was it for having heat.

I pulled a big long sensor out of the heater core area, and broke the corner of the air sensor on my dash off while trying to pry up to look in.  I guess it just feed ductwork and isn't the same style as the long one?  I can't figure out where the heater valve is.  I've played with the little silver box near the vent infront of the jetronic computer.

I've found a couple threads on the HVAC subject:

Peugeot 505 Series II Temperature Control

HVAC tutorial

Earlier 505 (84) heater valve with photos: where to find heater core valve replacement

 

Where is the Heater control Valve?  Can it be manually adjusted?  Should i knock on it while trying to manipulate an adjustment?

Is there a sensor in the engine compartment?  I can hear a click around the ECU.  I hear nothing along the lines of a valve being actuated.  

 

 

How much coolant should I have in my expansion bottle?

 

It's freekin' cold here today.  Climate control and sunroofs are on my avoid list, and of course this Peugeot has both.

 

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Update:  after playing with every I could reach which appeared to be connected to the climate control system, and adjusting incrementally, while listening to the clicking solenoid, I eventually found a fulcrum point on the temperature slider which was like a hair between clicks while adjusting, I went for a drive, took some sharp turns, drove up a hill, while fiddling with the adjuster, then presto HEAT.

heres another link to a manual on the 86 climate control system:

http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/505_my86_hv.pdf

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Did you fix that rad hose Goce and I both pointed out?  Would bet money thats playing a part.

Rabin

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Rabin is right, the thermostatic valve on the heater core can't sense the temperature of water if there's air stuck in it, and that hose is higher then the radiator and is acting like an Air reservar letting and getting air bubbles all the time, it's the radiators cap job to relieve any air from the system when the system cools down in the overflow bottle, that hose is keeping the air from entering the radiator.

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upper and lower rad hoses are coming from in from Australia.

I noticed a couple dots of “mayo” under the oil filler cap.  Fingers crossed the head/gasket is ok.

i noticed a loose wire, about 5’ long going to the negative battery terminal.  Connected it to a nearby relay and the electric fan later came on.

Added some coolant, heater is working.

really nervous of white under oil filler cap.  It was minimal, but now I’m spooked

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Proper stage 1 for this car would be to retorque the head and adjust valves.  Most people neglected doing it.  Some may argue the newer versions did not not need retorquing but it will never hurt it when done properly.   Adjusting valves can also make a huge improvement. 

PCV screens I mentioned should be cleaned and functional,  but short trips in cold weather will always cause condensation which results in mayo under the cap.

Rad hose - maybe zip tie the highest arc of that top hose over and down so there's no high spot for now - rad outlet should be highest part of hose.

BTW - never randomly connect wires without knowing what they are and how they work.   A multimeter and test light are essential tools for Peugeot ownership.  

Rabin

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If there is little mayo on the rad cap don't worry about it too much could be reminice from a previous repair where it never got clean out properly, also some mayo on the oil cap is normal if you doing short trips, taxi's here those problems often, short destinations expensive gasoline, so they get shut down after every drive, just keep an eye on it and don't worry about it.

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By down I hope you mean level?  Pic to confirm?

Assume hissing is gone now then?

Rabin

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23 hours ago, Bean said:

By down I hope you mean level?  Pic to confirm?

Assume hissing is gone now then?

Rabin

Yes, coming soon, and gone now.  Thank you.  

16181BFA-580F-4BA9-83E4-C3E61538CB27.jpeg

I’ve added a third to the power steering bracket, which I’m reconsidering.  Since it creates a kink.

but I now have a major smelly fuel leak, on my hard line, between the brake lines, or return fuel lines.  I’ll get a new thread going.  

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I’m not getting anything from my heater blower motor lately.

I was constantly blowing, now nothing.  My mechanic turned the switch all the way down.  It was blowing steady beforehand.  I hear the relay click.

which fuse is the blower?  Any insight?  I wiggled around the 20amp fuse

the blower was running at one speed regardless of slider position when first acquired.

My wiper motor moves very slow, and my horn is not working.  I figured the horn was a bad switch, since mine is broken in half, but the light switch aspect works.

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Easier to just check the fuses visually in the fuse box takes 2 minutes.

If it was running at one speed then the fan resistor is likely shot - that's what gives you speeds.  You should be able to check the fan directly at the fan motor connection - it's a two prong flat plug that's underhood near the heater assembly - might be under the firewall cover though.

Rabin

 

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I noticed a grey Two prong plug, with wires leading to the blower, but there appears to be more going on.  Almost looks like the o2 sensor was pulling power from the grey connector

I have the Haynes book, but the schematic is Greek to me.  The legend didn’t even seem to corespond 

Is one wire of the two prong a ground? I’m thinking white is ground. Or does the fan have a separate ground to body?

i need one of those voltage & polarity test probes for this project.

im getting nothing from the blower.  It’s dark now, but I fiddled with those connections and no change.  There was a damp relay nearby 30/20amp, smelled of urine.

could bad dash slider control resistors cause no fan?

is there a separate rheostat?

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You should have a 12V test light to check the plug for power, or a multimeter...  You need to be able to find out for yourself if there's power or not.

Fan resistors = rheostat.  When it fails it should default to high not interrupt current.  It's normally in he heater box as it's cooled by the airflow from the heater fan.

Rabin

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8 minutes ago, Bean said:

You should have a 12V test light to check the plug for power, or a multimeter...  You need to be able to find out for yourself if there's power or not.

Rabin

I was just thinking about investing in a probe like one I saw on YouTube.  It showed voltage and indicated polarity with different beeps.  

Ill diagnose the fan getting power, and maybe try to jump it, but behind the dash controls and the rheostat are pretty specific 

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Update.  Fan runs with direct 12volt.  No power at the 2 prong.  So fan itself seems good.

Read something about connecting wires in the dash to get full time full fan.  I’ll need to track that down.

ill need to research the switch and figure out how to test for power there and most importantly how to get to the switch 

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I couldn’t rest today, and had to fiddle with the blower issue.

i feel like the two prong connector going into the fan has voltage on both prongs.  I was able to jump it, on the red wire, but I grounded the brown while doing so.  I should have tried a jump without ground.

i also tried pulling power from my switched 12v lighter socket, but when connected to the blower, my radio turned on.

I’m potentially having no ground at my blower motor?  

Im confused

I bought a resistor to try.  That seems to have brown and yellow/green ground wire going  through it.  Maybe that’s related. Hate to throw parts around.E4B3467F-0690-47CC-82B1-268472105025.thumb.png.7d65deea24bdfccee8b648a22cae6aea.png

any information on the slider switch?

I'm looking over this climate control manual and who to:

http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/505_my86_hv.pdf

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Blower is now working.  I replaced a 5-contact relay which once replaced connected the blower to earth, which solved the no blower issue I was having.

the fan slider switch is now fully operational.  

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Excellent work... 

That resistor you bought likely goes elsewhere BTW - it looks familiar but it's been a while since I've worked on one to say for sure where it goes.

Rabin

 

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