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NinaYo401

Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

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Thanks Bean.  I googled it.  Search is tough on this site.

It’s just a plug and play part?

I ordered the Uro parts brand relay, or actually it may be Volvo 3 523 639 , used from eBay.  We’ll give it a whirl for $8.

one of those compression fitting from the line replacement had a drip.  The one between the accumulator and possibly return line, a wye shape of metal line.

we’re expecting a snow storm this weekend.  I’m glad it’s not dead in my gravel driveway, but the clink the auto transmission made from neutral to whatever gear while being loaded on the flatbed will make me think twice if there’s a next time.  Part should hopefully be here before he needs to move it to see the leak, and hopefully this gets it moving.  Couldn’t find one local.

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I’m thinking I should just get a new pump installed while it’s there.  

p60424

airtex e8150

gsl392 kit?  

Any pump recommendations?  

 

There’s some fuel getting from the tank to at least the accumulator, enough to drip from the leak, which has me considering a bad lower pump.  There wasn’t any pressure on the line between the rear of accumulator and possibly the return/supply 

 

Is the tank pump available?  Any part numbers?

could I use a Volvo pump with an attached regulator reservoir In lieu of the in tank pump?  Can the in tank pump be left in place even if it isn’t working?  Or would the dead pump impede the second pump?

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I checked the 20amp fuse behind the radio, which was fine.  I’d like to move that fuse to the ashtray. 

Purchaser a 255 lph welbro pump on craigs list.

A used Volvo tachymetric fuel relay arrived. But I’m still waiting on a tank primer pump, nos carter brand, made in Germany.  sUpposed to fit a VW, no fuel level sender.  Missing it’s pigtail, so I ordered a generic eBay Female Deans T-Connector, which should hopefully do the tricK.

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Your car is CIS - You might want to recheck the Walbro pump specs as CIS runs at a MUCH higher pressure than regular cars.  Make very sure it can handle CIS pressures.  Back in the day - CIS pumps were the upgrade for modified cars as they handled much higher pressures and they flowed a lot of volume.

Have you checked the main pump by applying power direct?

Rabin

 

 

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I’m hoping the 255lph will cut the mustard.  The kid I got it from was going to use it on a fuel injected corvette

What does the throttle position sensor do on this car?  Could that be contributing to my issue?  Could it cause a non-starting condition?

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Did you test the main pump with 12V?

CIS runs at 70 psi so you really should know it will work before installing it.  Will it take the same threaded banjo bolt connections at least?

Rabin

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1 minute ago, Bean said:

Did you test the main pump with 12V?

CIS runs at 70 psi so you really should know it will work before installing it.  Will it take the same threaded banjo bolt connections at least?

Rabin

eBay recommendation was 190, the 255 lph was also a common suggestion.  

walbro’s website says “2.64 horsepower per lph”

they say it’s rated at 40psi on one website.  70psi seems extreme.  

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Any idea what size the banjo bolts are?  They sell 10mm, 11, 12, 13mm.  I’m fairly certain.

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When I did my fuel pump I just got the Bosch one off Rock Auto, fits like an OEM pump (because it is!) also get an assortment of metric copper crush washers off Amazon. sometimes you gotta put a little RTV on the crush washers to get em to seal.

As for the in-tank fuel pump I went to Autozone, looked up the in-tank pump for a 1982 Volvo 242DL and bought the Delphi one, and an AC Delco TS17 strainer. The fit wasn't exact but it was real close.

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That Bosch pump isn’t too expensive either, from rock auto.  I got the walbro for $50 off craig’s List.  The tank primer pump came from eBay and is a pieterburg with strainer for $15.  Hoping the appropriate fittings don’t cost me the difference.

bought a used volvo fuel relay for $8.  Might get a new uro parts brand as a spare for the trunk.

 

 

 

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Did you test the main pump with 12V yet?  

Banjo bolts are reuseable - as are copper crush washers if you can anneal them before reuse.

You should never need sealant on a copper washer btw.

Rabin

 

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It’s across the street at my mechanic, with a box of parts.

I’ve been giving a lot of thought to the moisture in the valve cover.

I have my new radiator hoses sitting here.  I also have a Volvo cover gasket set.

I’m not sure if the pvc could cause that much condensation.  Though the oil cap is missing a hose, which is just capped.

could steam from that bunk upper hose have burst a coolant jacket?  Do the aluminum xn6 blocks or heads crack?

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Mentioned it previously - that's the wrong oil cap.

Functioning Pcv systems reduce/prevent condensation.

Volvo cover gasket set for your Volvo I hope?

And no.  Bad upper rad hose was bad for coolant to circulate properly.  New t-stat and new hoses should get it to temp quick which helps reduce condensation. 

XN6 engines will blow head gaskets if head bolts not checked as per manual.  Newer 505s were "supposed" to not nerd retorquing, but still adviseable by most now.

Rabin

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I meant xn6 valve gasket set.  I don’t think my t5 has a hconventional valve cover.  But I’m starting to worry about it’s inaccessible turbo return line o’ring above the angle gear.

its not overheating, but the white in the valve cover has me freaked.  Though it rarely gets driven for any period of time.

My initial drive home, I did get the engine pretty hot.  The cooling fan relay had a loose ground.

I may fill it up with royal purple in March, and clean the pcv screens.  

I wonder if throttle body cleaner would work.

 

I’ve never done a head gasket.  My torque wrench is super cheapskate.  And the timing chain is daunting.

No exhaust pressure from the overflow, but I didn’t rev the engine while checking.  I think I read to avoid reving in park or neutral with this automatic.  

Snow predicted for this afternoon

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Engine heat / oil temp is the cure for moisture in the oil.  Good t-stat, functioning PCV (ie: no plugged up screens), clean oil, and if it's getting cold make sure to use a lower viscosity oil like 5w30 or even 0w40.

If the car isn't on synthetics now, I'd recommend and engine flush prior with liqui-moly or similar, and then filter changes every 1500 miles at least twice as synth will free up a lot of gunk in engine.

If your oil looks like a chocolate milkshake it's a coolant leak, but if you just see white stuff with good oil on dipstick it mostly needs a good long drive.

Rabin

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Nina, if you don't do any highway driving especially when is cold, condensation in the valve cover is expected, older cars have much more primitive PCV system that can cause mayonnaise in the oil cap, this is normal. Give the car a good few hours driving to see if the mayonnaise gets worse or better before you tackle a head gasket replacement

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