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NinaYo401

Fuel hard line leak. 505 STI

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3 minutes ago, Bean said:

Pictures?  I'm curious what line would need brazing...

Rabin

It’s a T shaped hardline.  Here is an older photo 

D5E7A5CB-DCEC-4EF8-A89B-83E4C1C5553C.jpeg

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As far as the speedometer, a garden-variety Garmin GPS will tell you the speed.  Online, older ones go for a song.

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I’ve been cruising around in my 505.  Using an old TomTom for a speedometer.

riding pretty nice.  Mechanic said people were all asking if it’s for sale.

Getting a little stumble when cresting large highway hills.  Easing off the pedal slightly seems to resolve it.

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I’d estimate I put just shy of 200 miles on the 505 today.

What a car

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Congrats!  They definitely are a special car.  My wife thinks I'm nuts because I want to sell our 2006 Volvo V70R so that I can daily a 505 again...  :)

Rabin

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My 05 xc70 is in the shop.  Sounded like a cv clicking, but I think one of the rubber hangers is off the down pipe, allowing some rattling . I hope that’s all it is.  190k on it.

Those s/70 60/70 R motors are prone to cylinder wall cracks

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Cylinder wall cracks are only an issue if pushing 450+ HP out of them as they're an open deck design.  Stock power levels they're still Volvo reliable.

Mine has 124K miles and is bone stock.  I had a modded 2000 V70R with Hilton stage 2, custom 3" downpipe, snabb intake pipe, and custom 19T turbo - but sold it and kept a 2008 BMW 535xi Touring.

Rabin

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So my walbro 255lph fuel pump is screaming bloody murder.  I think I’m noticing some fuel lean sputtering.

I might shop for another walbro, maybe the second time is the charm.  And change the opparts off brand filter to a Mahle.

It was getting loud after 45min, but now a few minutes at idle and it’s screaming like a banshee 

 

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I asked my mechanic about the issue.  He said to try a loose gas cap.  I did, but then began to smll gas, but I'll try to nigh wrench it tight.

I'm looking at purchasing a Bosch 69430, but I'd hate to kill another pump.  I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the Bosch nipple on the walbro pump, so it should swap fairly simply.

Maybe the fuel filter should be changed also?

I'm not convinced drilling a hole in the gas cap would be a wise solution.  

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Remember way back when I said that CIS systems run at much higher pressures than normal fuel injection and the Walbro might not be able to cope?  That's my guess.

You might also want to confirm fuel pressure, and I'd replace that fuel filter for sure before replacing pump just to make sure. Hole in the fuel cap is just dumb.

Rabin

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I wasn’t convinced about the fuel cap.  However, when the pump was new, I was noticing a hiss when removing the fuel cap.  

Im torn between purchasing a $30 turbine based off-brand fuel pump and not changing the filter, or the $100 Bosch, and possibly a filter, or just buying from a lifetime warranty supplier.  

The walbro is supposed to be very contaminant resistant, so I’m thinking my new fuel filter is still good.

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Rusty tank will make very quick work of even a new filter.  Is tank known good and rust free?

Fuel pump needs to be able to provide 70 psi without issue...  

Tank should have functional vent / breather system.   If suction is being created you should check tank vent tubing.

Rabin

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I’m not currently getting suction, but I was with the brand new walbro.  Maybe that issue has resolved itself?  Mechanic said the tank looked very good inside.

i pulled out the voltage meter.  10.3volts between the two terminals on the pump.  11.8 between the positive pump terminal and body.

batter holding 13.3volts, charging system produces 13.6 volts running engine.

** pump gets quiet with all lights running, including Fog lights.  Gets loud when fog lights go off.

alternator gets noisy periodically.  Shouldn’t I be seeing 14.4 from my alternator?  Could alt be the culprit?

I have a spare alternator.  Should I still consider a Memorial Day Bosch fuel pump?  They’re supposed to have a lower running amperage 

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Idle or at 2000 rpm?  Stock alternators don't usually have enough poop to do 14.3V at idle - try measuring at 1500-2000rpm.

I usually try to replace with a 80A GM alternator.  

Regardless - don't think it's related to the pump function. 

Rabin

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Yeah I've replaced my fuel filter twice in the last month or so, First time the old accumulator took a crap and dumped a bunch of rust. The second time it was rust again! I probably need to drop the (plastic) tank again and have a look see. Last I had it off the fuel sender and float assemblies weren't rusty but the filler neck sure is.

 

TL;DR

When the fuel pump runs excessively loud, check the fuel filter first.

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New pump is on.  Seems quiet enough.  

Broke the fuel line between the pump and accumulator, so I had a new nylon line fitted to the two gnarled  banjo fittings. 

Skipped the fuel filter, since what poured out of the pump was clear as a crystal.  

Of course the new crush washers didn’t fit, and I have no gas to anneal, so I reused the old washers.  

Had a drip from the accumulator, so I reefed on the that 19mm which seemed to have done the trick.

 

front tires are wearing uneven, yet they’re unmatched, and one says inside on the outside.  I rotated the left to right once already, and that seems to be what they’re asking for again.  New matched pair on the rear.

been loosing a litttle off the level of my brake master reservior.  But no signs of a leak.  Maybe the pads are wearing quickly. 

I’ll get photos when I poke around the car this weekend.  Might change the oil.  

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Check inside the car - Brake fluid leak is usually the clutch master leaking inside the car where the clutch rod goes in.

Rabin

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So I have a window motor to install, from a driver door, which I hope fits my passenger front, and installs without pulling the regulator.

My driver wheel bolts were loose and knocking for about a mile a month ago, before I stopped and wrenched them.  Seems I’ve discovered my outter tie rod on that side has some vertical play.

whats the torque spec of the tie rod to the knuckle?  I was thinking of trying 41ft/lb, if I can’t find it in my Haynes 

Apparently the 80lb/ft was a bit lean for the wheel nuts.

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80 ft*lbs is plenty for a M12 lug nut.  Id suggest chasing all the lugs with a M12x1.25 tap, and cleaning all the studs with the same die if you can.  Would then advise to use a little anti-seize on threads.   It you don't have a tap & die set then use a wire brush and brake clean to get them clean.

As for torque specs - a good place to start if you don know proper torque is to look up the rating by fastener size.  

I personally rely on feel as Ive broken more bolts with a torque than using what my Dad referred to as "mechanic feel" or mechanic tight" - you basically get a feel for it being tight.

Rabin

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Thanks again Rabin.  I’ve been treating the tie rod with penetration oil.  Hopefully it’s a smooth job.  

Looking at my rust spots.  Might take the rust off, use a combination of inhibitor and zinc primer, then tall to my local custom welding shop.

im going to tackle the speedo cable and transmission filter this summer.  I would like to know the trans sump torque specs.

might just get a sheet of magnet for the sunroof, during heavy rain.  But welding is taking a back seat to mechanical tinkering   

 

 

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Changed an outter tie rod, counter threads and measured, but my steering wheel is now a bit off center.  I realized the whole inner rod was spinning when tightening the lock nut, but it doesn’t seem to far from where it was.

inner rod was a little floppy, but not jiggling or anything.

maybe I should invest in an alignment sooner than I was hoping to.

 Passenger steering boot is torn from it’s spring clip, maybe I can pinch it a little further forward and pull it tighter with a zip tie.

 

 

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Had my front end aligned today, $44 Groupon.  Seems pretty good. They mentioned the back being slightly out, but said it was unadjustable.  Seems pretty good.

funny quote, “frame rot isn’t that bad”

however, the vanishing brake fluid has me worried.  It doesn’t seem like my driver rear brake is doing very much.

is there a replaceable one way valve or something I should check?   There doesn’t seem to be any fluid on the firewall or that I’ve noticed under the dash.

My volvo however, is dripping at the steering rack hardlines, which already has a braze repair.  So, I’m relying on the 505 a bit.  I wonder if my worn LCAs are stressing the volvo’s rack, or if the person who fixed my exhaust leak leaned on the brazed line.  It’s a zf push in connection, with a crack on the apex of the line’s sharp bend 

 

 

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I’m thinking the booster to intake vacuum line has brake fluid on the clamps.  I’ll check in the morning, if it isn’t raining.  

Does that mean the booster or master or both?  

And if replacing the master.  I’m totally afraid of separating my 33 year old plastic reservoir from the MC 

 

 

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Pretty hard to get brake fluid on that line from a mechanical failure perspective - more likely it was spilled onto it.

If the tank seals are leaking then soaking it in warm water will soften both the plastic and the rubber seals holding the tank.

Rabin 

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