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Hello All, I've been meaning to log in and ask questions, but I've been able to solve all my dumb little problems myself.

I made it my summer/fall (now winter) project to resurrect a 1985 505S wagon with an XN6 and BA10? 5 speed that has been sitting in my parents driveway for 14 years. It was parked because the No 1 spark plug hole was stripped (I'm not sure why). I fixed that with a tight access helicoil kit, then got the in line fuel pump running (cursed at it and bashed it with a hammer), purged the crap out of the fuel dizzy and she started! but the clutch cylinders were dead. I topped off the reseviour, let it sit a week or two, and the cylinders came back to life! I was able to drive it out of the hole it was in for so long.

Since then I have replaced/re routed vacuum lines to get it to run right (I guess!), replaced the in-tank and in line fuel pumps/filter/strainer, cleaned the gas tank and sender, cleaned/refilled the air filter, cleaned the WUR/air valve, JB welded the broken door handles, new tires, bailing wired the shifter link back on to the tranny (lol), changed engine oil/filter, shimmed the passenger side headlight (adjuster/mount has disintegrated!), cleaned a zillion electrical connections, verified the dizzy was advancing correctly, etc, etc....

And now it drives pretty good, but I need to replace the brakes, tranny/diff oil, fuel accumulator, fix the A/C, replace shifter link, and a few other things.

Though tonight I was driving it, the plastic under the dash came down and interfered with my clutch foot, i kicked it and the car died 😖, I upset the fuel pump taciymetric relay. Had to tow it home with my W250. I opened the relay, cleaned the contacts, and now it work intermittently. I'm gonna re-solder and re-cap before I declare it dead, it's just a relay with a 555 timer, some resistors/capacitors, diodes and transistors..........

 

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A couple of quick questions,

Does anybody know where I can get a vacuum line routing diagram for the XN6 engine?

I think I have the vacuum lines routed correctly but I'm not sure

and

My radiator fan seems to be "clutched" all the time and the engine doesn't quite reach temperature, does this have a fan clutch?

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In having the same kind of fuel system issue with my nx6 86 Sti.

I have a Haynes book.  It’s lousy.  I’ll flip through it when I get a chance and see what I can find.

it had nothing useful related to the fuel pump.

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My tachymetric fuel pump relay was intermittent, but I cleaned the socket it fits in with contact cleaner. There is also another white connector in the wiring harness leading up to the relay, take that apart and clean it too. It also doesn't hurt to clean the grounding trees mounted under the dash on both sides of the steering column.

Also I found out the radiator fan clutch is electromagnetic. Mine is missing the brush but that doesn't matter since its locked to run all the time. I will be putting in an electric fan soon anyways.

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Hi Mr_rye - Apologies that I missed your posts so far, and welcome to the forum!

Aweome that you've been able to resurrect the old girl, and well done on how thorough you've been.

Tranny *should* be a BA7/5 paired with the XN6.

If you still need the vacuum digram Ive got most FSM's so I'll check if I can find vacuum hose routing diagram.

Any pictures?

Rabin

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Yeah these pics  I took this afternoon. I deleted the EGR, EVAP, and what was left of the cruise control and added an electric radiator fan. This morning I took off the WUR and yanked the screens out of it. The car was running lean and was gutless. much better now.

 

The paint job is pretty ugly but it was no good 15 years ago and the New Mexico sun hasn't helped

33959200888_ded91c8616_c.jpg

40869864573_5fa8ee1e8e_c.jpg

33959200898_830cd7112b_b.jpg

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The 2.2L ZDJL SOHC cars only came out in 87+ cars, prior to that they were all 2.0L XN6 cam in block cars like this one.

Didn't even know the warm up regulator had screens!  Were they plugged?  Or were the screens themselves the restriction?  I'd also check to make sure you have a functioning vacuum advance as they're a common failure point and make the car gutless.

That NM sun sure fries cars extra crispy too - but guessing no rust issues?  Looks great with those big 14's on it too!

Rabin

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WUR screens were plugged pretty good, vacuum advance does work (verified via timing light, I also made sure the insides of the dizzy weren't seized). The car easily keeps up with traffic now. No real rust, a few small spots.

I've still got a few bugs to chase, for one the fuel pump starts getting noisy after 45 minutes of driving, the brake pedal is still a tad squishy despite new rotors/pads/master/booster. I gotta get some weather strip too, I found some generic strip that should work well.

The tires are cheapo 205/70R14s, kinda an odd size, but that's what were on it when I got it.

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Squishy brake pedal:  have you set rear brake shoes and made sure everything inside drums was good?  Did rear brake cylinders bleed OK?

Rabin

 

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I haven't cracked open the drums yet, on my to do list. though the wheel cylinders did bleed ok. The parking brake works flawlessly FWIW.

 

I also have been meaning to investigate the power mirrors, I think the switch isn't giving them enough juice.

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I’m having the same issue with the loud pump.  I just had it replaced too, with a welbro.

I've read the welbro likes a thicker gauge line.  Maybe I’ll go for the Bosch next time, but I’m interested in your experience.  

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