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V-M

New engine for 505 turbo

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original 1,25 for block side and up 1,75

Here is set info:

ARP-200-8428
ARP-300-8396
ARP-AU7700-1B

V-M

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Some update. Volvo pistons machined -1.8mm and piston head reshaped to match original. Fitted on block and now just waiting for custom head gasget to arrive. Ordered that custom head gasget from italy with separate fire rings. Same gasget as I used with that larger piston engine and same whitch Tama uses currently in his same way build engine (same 92mm volvo pistons and saab B201 conrods).

Here is some pictures

1. after

2. Pistons before machinery

3. mold mass testing for valve clearange (not hit at all even 0mm valve setting)

4. own build dani head plug seat detail

5. pistons assembled and front cover with gears and chains assembled

Seem at pressure ratio will be bit lower than I previously assumed and calculated but it will be still close to 8, piston is now 0.5mm above block when in up position.

V-M

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Is the head gasket expensive? On a french forum a guy is making his own overside gaskets by ordering the rings and machining a stock gasket, cheap and he runs with lots of pressure. The post was old but maybe I can find the name of the ring supplier.

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It should be around 180e with one extra "skin" gasked. Rings are reusable. Skin it self was someting around 60e/pcs

V-M

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Those gasgets are made in same gasget factory as they make for ferrari and others special needs. :)

V-M

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Gasget set finaly arrived. Also repair set for old Garret TO4E (from lancia integrale HF). Now all needed parts are collected. All needed is time for last push, need to see if I have energy during hospital time.

V-M

P.S gasget manufacturer -> http://www.navalineasport.it/home_eg.htm

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Time flies :) This morning I thinked at today I'll do some garage work. Engine has been ready pretty long time :D And all needed parts been there also long time. So here is result (see pictures). Tomorrow I'll put head on if I get some help lifting it on place, have to be accurate cause those loose rings can move easily wrong spot. Put also new treads (helicoil) on head side front cause those are often tighten too much and threats are worn.

V-M

 

 

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Moto1.jpg

moto2.jpg

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Very excited for updates V-M! 

And yes - time does fly!  I've learned my lesson with posting too soon when starting projects - I'll have to update mine as well as some progress has been made on all of them, but I want to hold off on updates until I'm actually building rather than posting plans and thoughts.  :)

Rabin

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On 10.7.2015 at 0:14 PM, V-M said:

ARP bolt set arrived.

V-M

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Small draw back... those nuts are wrong ones. wrong threat :(  these 300-8396 are M12x1,75 and it should be 300-8307-1 M12x1,50. Lets see those Porsche 944 head nuts are suitable (ordered them from France yesterday). Those 300-8307-1 was available from ARP but delivery time was 4 weeks, and those 944 nuts should arrive tomorrow or monday.

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When I was trying to figure out what was going on for Bill Branch - the only studs that would fit were 1.25mm pitch on block side, 1.75mm on the nut/head side.  (His had loosened - turns out it was most likely install error).  I however wasn't a fan of the course 1.75mm pitch for tightening.  They do make M12x1.75mm nuts for these studs to work however.

They also mentioned thse studs that have M12x1.5 threads - but oddly neither ARP or Raceware make M12x1.5 nuts.  300-8307 nuts show up as M12x1.25mm for me.

I was thinking the best solution was going to be to Timesert the block to M12X1.5 and then use the M12x1.25 side on top because they do make M12x1.25mm nuts - Didn't even think to look for OEM M12x1.5 head stud nuts.

Keep us posted.

Rabin

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Nuts came this morning from France (pretty fast delivery at home door). Surely there could been other alternatives than these Porsche 924,944,928 nuts but that was only which I found with correct spec and reasonable time limit. Nuts fitted perfectly as u see.

Correct! 300-8307 are M12x1,25 but  300-8307-1 M12x1,5 is not listed cause its special order limitation.

Note! This currently installed head is one which was self made danielson head with similar cindered cam than danielson but has bit more lift on cam (if I remeber correct it was 0,3mm more on cam, so its around 1mm in valve)

 

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Ah - that is good to know VM!  When I talked to the guy on the phone he said they don't make M12x1.50mm nuts for those studs at all.

If they're just special order I'm going to verify and order 2x sets of those nuts - then I can get the studs and washers when I do my motors.  (Will hope the CDN dollar gets a little better exchange rate soon.)

Rabin

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Engine running nicely and no major probs. Now need to fix things for inspection pow. Brakes, lights etc...

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Nice to hear you've got the engine running, take your time fix all the little thing well, because they are the one that will come back later.

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Sent an e-mail to ARP about those 300-8307-1 special order nuts - will order a couple sets if so. :)

Very much looking forward to dyno results, and feedback on how it builds power on this build.

Are you running a stand alone?

Rabin

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Reply from ARP (Art Venegas) is that part number is not correct, and the only M12x1.5 nut they make is in stainless steel.

There were two head studs they made and your initial post and your pictured part numbers come back as the M12x1.75mm studs, but they must have been mislabelled M12x1.50mm studs.

Still like your solution to use Porsche M12x1.50 nuts as long as the thread design is a nice tight fit, and will likely copy you if they don't suddenly stock M12x1.25 in the correct length. :)

Rabin

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Yeah, was looking info also and all looked correct when I ordered them. Seems some error on studs or coding. That nut coding was from local importer.

Runned engine hot few times, opened valve cover to check valve gap and checked torgues of nuts. All looked fine and all in same torgue as I did set them. All okay so far. Found one initial problem which could caused earlier problems or maybe it came during not using engine. Hose from expansion can was stuck some air did go trough but when I opened both ends and put pressured air it make pop sound and some thing came out and air started flow easily.

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Small update, car is running fine even with -20C and lot of snow (fun also). Driven now around 1000km. Slipping and sliding. Waiting to summer time to run in top speed test on old airfield ;)

V-M

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And a dyno run...  Hint hint.  :)

Nice to hear tht it looks like you found lasting success V-M!

Rabin

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Some problems with starter, caused by long starts which caused maybe by fuel pump. has been too cold (-20C) last weeks to do anything with 505. use cars both broken and taken all energy. Friend did make some badges with 3d printer, bottom is original and some versions after that.

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Last 2 set's is going to Sweden. 1 set consists "Dani"spec cam, new rockers and slash caps.

 

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Here is picture of repaired head /welded and surface straightened.  plug holes and combustion areas not grind in correct shape yet. But this is sample how it should be fixed to last. Problem is is on those 2 and 3 exhaust ring cracking towards water side, its very narrow place and heat difference is high. Welder said at there is bubbles  and residues from casting and its not so good and constant aluminum mold which can be seen when welding head.

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Ignition control box which is located next to clove box and under temp control valve. Box looks clean out side but inside can be bit different. Remember to change place for box or at least turn it upside down (there is enough cable) to avoid this.

 

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