Peugeot-L mailing list archives

From: <tewoods_at_mindspring.com>
Date: 01/25/05

Re; Clutch master access;

Yes - I did just that - moved brake master cylinder with lines attached carefully out of the way (I may have disconnected one - cannot remember) - they are copper of course and quite flexible and not subject to braking unless you do something really klutzy. Then the booster comes out easily and you are there. Try it..... Tom Woods

Also, one can often re-attach a brake line back to the master cylinder without having to later bleed if you use a hypodermic to inject brake fluid into the end of the line until it is full, attach quickly (that's the tricky part), while letting some fluid ooze out of the master cylinder into the connection and then tighten. I've done this many many times with never a problem of air in the line.

Original Message:

From: peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com
Date: 25 Jan 2005 21:04:20 -0000
To: peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Peugeot-L] Digest Number 1741

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

505 Turbo Front Bumper for sale!! on Ebay From: "Benjamin" <hakim_fahd@yahoo.com.mx>
Re: 405 part - what is it? From: "Jim" <superblackbird00@hotmail.com>
Re: 405 part - what is it? From: "tjp1974" <tjp74@earthlink.net>
For Sale: '87 505 STX From: Roger Dana <rhd3262@yahoo.com>
404 Parts Car with link From: "Bob Bruce" <bobbruce@mts.net>
404 Parts Car From: "Bob Bruce" <bobbruce@mts.net>
84 505 clutch master r&r From: kenneth parker <elkeni@mac.com>
RE: 84 505 clutch master r&r From: "N9TE" <Fujitsu@turbo505.com>
Hard to Start hot 95 505S Wagon From: "wiggibear97301" <wiggibear@hotmail.com>
Re: 84 505 clutch master r&r From: Rabin Rutten-James <rabin505@sasktel.net>
Re: Hard to Start hot 95 505S Wagon From: Eduardo Kaftanski <e@nn.cl>
Re: Re: 405 part - what is it? From: "peugfan@juno.com" <peugfan@juno.com>
Robert Countess From: "georgebostic" <george@sunsetcoachmen.com>
505 wagon avail to good home From: "Ted Perkins" <ted@tedperkins.com>
Wheel Adaptor Hub Measurment 505 1991SW8 From: "Rhett Longman " <oorhett@yahoo.com>
air injector valve 1976 504 From: "Gary Petersen" <blazing_guitarist@hotmail.com>
speedometer leak 1976 504 From: "Gary Petersen" <blazing_guitarist@hotmail.com>
AW: speedometer leak 1976 504 From: "Bagheera" <bagheera@freenet.de>

Message: 1         
   Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 20:24:02 -0000
   From: "Benjamin" <hakim_fahd@yahoo.com.mx>
Subject: 505 Turbo Front Bumper for sale!! on Ebay

A friend of mine is selling a 1989 505 Turbo Front Bumper on Ebay. Item number: 7949238406
Please put your Bids quickly.

Regards
Ben

Message: 2         
   Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 20:28:20 -0000
   From: "Jim" <superblackbird00@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 405 part - what is it?

It has been a while since I replaced the black box that controls the door locks on my MI 16 but if I remember correctly it is similar in shape to your description and has the connector.

In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "peugfan@j..." <peugfan@j...> wrote:
>
> In my garage today, I found a black box, about 1x3x4 inches, with a
15-pin connector on one end. Markings are:
>
> Valeo
> Thermique
> 73401402
> 003275W
> 9256280580
> 46 88
>
> There's also a sticker indicating it is "version 1".
>
> The box it's in (not necessarily the box it BELONGS in) has a part
number: 6445.A3
>
> I seem to recall having a spare heater-A/C ECU, but I thought it
was a different shape. Is it what I think it is?
>
> Thanks!
>
> fs
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand.
> Now includes pop-up blocker!
> Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!

Message: 3         
   Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 20:49:00 -0000
   From: "tjp1974" <tjp74@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 405 part - what is it?

It's a climite control ECU. One that controls the heater flap motor and subjected to commond failure. There suppose to be version 2 introduced in very late 91 or rare 92 models or only installed by dealer as a replacement unit. But I heard that version 2 was no better.
The box is located in below the HVAC unit behind the center consol (behind the ashtray/storage bin)

> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "peugfan@j..." <peugfan@j...>
wrote:
> >
> > In my garage today, I found a black box, about 1x3x4 inches,
with a
> 15-pin connector on one end. Markings are:
> >
> > Valeo
> > Thermique
> > 73401402
> > 003275W
> > 9256280580
> > 46 88
> >
> > There's also a sticker indicating it is "version 1".
> >
> > The box it's in (not necessarily the box it BELONGS in) has a
part
> number: 6445.A3
> >
> > I seem to recall having a spare heater-A/C ECU, but I thought it
> was a different shape. Is it what I think it is?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > fs
> >
> >

> > Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand.
> > Now includes pop-up blocker!
> > Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up
today!

Message: 4         
   Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 13:14:51 -0800 (PST)
   From: Roger Dana <rhd3262@yahoo.com>
Subject: For Sale: '87 505 STX

I just stumbled across this advert and thought someone might be interested. I am not connected to the seller in any way, so please do not contact me for more information.

http://buffalo.craigslist.org/car/56178769.html

Peugeot 1987 505 STX V-6 sedan, auto, fully loaded. $450 716-631-0142

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250

Message: 5         
   Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 17:09:34 -0600
   From: "Bob Bruce" <bobbruce@mts.net>
Subject: 404 Parts Car with link

This time I'll include the link...

Who was looking for the 404 differential? May be there is one in this car?
And hopefully it is close?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10076&item =4522415313&rd=1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Message: 6         
   Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 17:07:23 -0600
   From: "Bob Bruce" <bobbruce@mts.net>
Subject: 404 Parts Car

Who was looking for the 404 differential? May be there is one in this car?
And hopefully it is close?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Message: 7         
   Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 17:20:09 -0800
   From: kenneth parker <elkeni@mac.com>
Subject: 84 505 clutch master r&r

	In spite of the fact that I share both a nationality and culture with

the late Harry Houdini I find that I am virtually solution-free when it comes to figuring out how, other than cut that easy access hole in the fender well, to gain access to my clutch master on my 84 505 STI. I think it would be easier for me to have my hands tied, be placed in a locked trunk and submerged in a tank of water and expected to free myself than to remove and replace the clutch master on my car.

Maybe my 505 is different than all others and my clutch master, knowing that I am out to get it, has huddled up closer to the brake vac unit in an attempt to hide from my flare nut wrench and my 11mm 1/4 inch drive snap-on universal socket. Thus the question: "Why is this car different than all others?"

	Questions are:
		1.  Who in Peugeot's cadre of genius engineers decided on the

placement of the clutch master, where do they live and how many body guards has Peugeot alloted him/her?

2. Truly, how on earth does one gain access to the cylinder?

3. What about cutting that access door out? I have a nice die grinder, cut-off wheels and my other 505 has a nice neat flap (it is cut on three sides and it came that way, I didn't do the cutting) already there so I could easily measure and replicate the cuts.

I could do the job Stevie Wonder style with 12 feet of extensions and a universal socket and maybe remove (and probably lose) the nuts that secure the unit, but how on earth could I start the nuts on the studs without being able to see or feel where the nuts go? This blind technique has "cross-threading" written all over it.

As for loosening the line that runs to the slave, I would have to cut my hand into little lengthwise strips to be able to simply touch the fitting, not to mention figure out a way to get a flarenut wrench, or even one of those Snap-on 3/8 drive flarenut ends, to fit on the fitting. Then there is the fact that since there appears to be no direct access to the fitting that removing such a fitting at a weird angle is the usual Peugeot "recipe for disaster."

I always try to do these jobs the "right" way, but doing this one the right way will probably result in my ending up catatonic and inpatient in a state psychiatric facility. Bleeding the slave, installing timing chains, adjusting fan clutches, rebuilding 504 transmissions, that's a breeze, comparatively. This job looks to be impossible without making those cuts in the fender well.

I even thought about removing the battery, and air filter nightmare to try and get a shot at it, but it looks as if the fuel injection unit was cleverly designed as a last line of defense to disallow access to the master.

A while back someone on this list suggested moving (without actually pulling the lines) the master cylinder forward and then pulling the brake vacuum unit out. This, especially the part about not disconnecting the brake lines from the master, seems a bit daring. I could see removing the brake master, but I would remove the lines as I would be afraid of screwing something up and then having to replace the lines.

In spite of the fact that some might find this a funny post I am really at wit's end with this one. Any suggestions, frivolous, hostile or otherwise will be gladly accepted.
Thanks,
Perplexed Ken Again

Message: 8         
   Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 17:48:29 -0800
   From: "N9TE" <Fujitsu@turbo505.com>
Subject: RE: 84 505 clutch master r&r

 > 	I even thought about removing the battery, and air filter

nightmare to
try and get a shot at it, but it looks as if the fuel injection unit was cleverly designed as a last line of defense to disallow access to the master.

Removing other components/assemblies is a fact of life. Although it's supposed to be an easy job, some things require you to do a little disassembling. Removing the brake booster on my Cressida damn near required me to remove the intake. The right side of the 505's engine compartment is a crowded place.

I had to remove a TON of stuff to do the heater hose on my 87 turbo. But, I was already in there fixing years of neglect so most of what I took out needed to be gone through anyway. I remember saying to myself, "man, I'd hate to have to after that component if that's all I needed to do" as I was putting everything back.

It's a tight fit taking the stuff out and a tight fit going back in. Worse yet, it's usually filther than crap going in. In thorough disgustion, I started cleaning stuff right away and didn't take the time to properly document stuff coming out. Who wants to take pictures of a grease pit? And get their camera dirty?

Thankfully I figured out where everything went.

But the larger point is that you very well may have to take out other components to get at your target. The battery is nothing.

K o l l

Message: 9         
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 02:57:32 -0000
   From: "wiggibear97301" <wiggibear@hotmail.com>
Subject: Hard to Start hot 95 505S Wagon

Hello everyone...new to the list and just purchased a 1985 Peugeot 505S Wagon w/ 2.0l engine. My car starts ok cold, but everytime I try to start it after it has run during the day, it will not restart unless I add starting fluid into the intake manifold. FYI, I do hear the fuel pump working when cranking over the engine, but no fuel is getting to the engine, until at least 5 minutes of cranking on the starter. Some people have recommended a new fuel accumulator, but where would one get one? I tried western hemispheres, and no luck there. Could it also be the in tank fuel pump or the main fuel pump? Runs and accelerates great when running, just hard to start hot. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Chris in Salem, Oregon

Message: 10        
   Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 21:01:01 -0600
   From: Rabin Rutten-James <rabin505@sasktel.net>
Subject: Re: 84 505 clutch master r&r

Hi Kenneth,

That would be me who suggested removing the two nuts holding the brake master to the booster and simply moving it forward a bit. It really is a piece of cake and there's never any serious "I'm gonna break it!" tension in it when you do move it. Part of the beauty of the copper lines I guess.

The booster is a "little" bit more difficult and involves some of that Houdini contortionist to get in comfy enough to have access to the four nuts inside - but it still only takes me about 15 - 20 minutes to do it.

Once the booster is out - you have a VERY nice view of the clutch master. The fitting underneath is admittedly a bugger - but as a last resort you could pull out the master as well and then the line would just come out with it and you can take it off on the bench.

As for flare end wrenches - I hate them. They suck. I use the smallest vice grip they sell with the fancy hex nut jaw. Fantastic grip on the malleable fittings and they never strip if properly put on.

If your as thorough as Koll (and aspire to be like me :), then it would be a great opportunity to paint the booster before reassembly. I'm a firm believer in making a job I did LOOK like I did something. I ususally stop and cleaning everything VERY thoroughly - but I stop short of the detail work that Koll does. I hope when my car is done the engine bay is a nice as this Volvo's... http://www.mvpvolvo.com Probably what Koll's will look like too! (Sweet Volvo site BTW... Check out their coil over conversions - that's what I want to do to my car!)

Remember to bench bleed the clutch master before it goes in. Bleed the brakes while your at it after the install, then connect the left front calliper bleed (after it's done) to the clutch slave bleed with a length of hose, open both bled screws and pump away. I usually undo the line into the resevoir and have it go into a separate container to prevent an dirt going back into the brake system.

I've done the job 4-5 times - never once had an issue.

Hope that helps!

Rabin

Original Message ----- From: kenneth parker To: Peugeot List Cc: Julie parker Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 7:20 PM Subject: [Peugeot-L] 84 505 clutch master r&r

In spite of the fact that I share both a nationality and culture with
the late Harry Houdini I find that I am virtually solution-free when it comes to figuring out how, other than cut that easy access hole in the fender well, to gain access to my clutch master on my 84 505 STI. I think it would be easier for me to have my hands tied, be placed in a locked trunk and submerged in a tank of water and expected to free myself than to remove and replace the clutch master on my car.

        Questions are:
              1.  Who in Peugeot's cadre of genius engineers decided on the

placement of the clutch master, where do they live and how many body guards has Peugeot alloted him/her?

2. Truly, how on earth does one gain access to the cylinder?

3. What about cutting that access door out? I have a nice die
grinder, cut-off wheels and my other 505 has a nice neat flap (it is cut on three sides and it came that way, I didn't do the cutting) already there so I could easily measure and replicate the cuts.

I could do the job Stevie Wonder style with 12 feet of extensions and
a universal socket and maybe remove (and probably lose) the nuts that secure the unit, but how on earth could I start the nuts on the studs without being able to see or feel where the nuts go? This blind technique has "cross-threading" written all over it.

As for loosening the line that runs to the slave, I would have to cut
my hand into little lengthwise strips to be able to simply touch the fitting, not to mention figure out a way to get a flarenut wrench, or even one of those Snap-on 3/8 drive flarenut ends, to fit on the fitting. Then there is the fact that since there appears to be no direct access to the fitting that removing such a fitting at a weird angle is the usual Peugeot "recipe for disaster."

I always try to do these jobs the "right" way, but doing this one the
right way will probably result in my ending up catatonic and inpatient in a state psychiatric facility. Bleeding the slave, installing timing chains, adjusting fan clutches, rebuilding 504 transmissions, that's a breeze, comparatively. This job looks to be impossible without making those cuts in the fender well.

I even thought about removing the battery, and air filter nightmare to
try and get a shot at it, but it looks as if the fuel injection unit was cleverly designed as a last line of defense to disallow access to the master.

A while back someone on this list suggested moving (without actually
pulling the lines) the master cylinder forward and then pulling the brake vacuum unit out. This, especially the part about not disconnecting the brake lines from the master, seems a bit daring. I could see removing the brake master, but I would remove the lines as I would be afraid of screwing something up and then having to replace the lines.

        In spite of the fact that some might find this a funny post I am   really at wit's end with this one. Any suggestions, frivolous, hostile   or otherwise will be gladly accepted.
  Thanks,
  Perplexed Ken Again

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  Examples:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 11        
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 00:02:37 -0300
   From: Eduardo Kaftanski <e@nn.cl>
Subject: Re: Hard to Start hot 95 505S Wagon

On Tue, Jan 25, 2005 at 02:57:32AM -0000, wiggibear97301 wrote:

> 

> 

> Hello everyone...new to the list and just purchased a 1985 Peugeot

> 505S Wagon w/ 2.0l engine.  My car starts ok cold, but everytime I try

> to start it after it has run during the day, it will not restart

> unless I add starting fluid into the intake manifold.  FYI, I do hear

> the fuel pump working when cranking over the engine, but no fuel is

> getting to the engine, until at least 5 minutes of cranking on the

> starter.  Some people have recommended a new fuel accumulator, but

> where would one get one?  I tried western hemispheres, and no luck

> there.  Could it also be the in tank fuel pump or the main fuel pump?

>  Runs and accelerates great when running, just hard to start hot.  Any

> suggestions?

sounds like a tipical vapor lock with a Bosch CIS inyection.

the accumulator sits near the fuel pump, and its the same for
every CIS equiped car. You can get one for an 80s Golf and should work.

-- 
Eduardo Kaftanski
eduardo@linuxcenterla.com
Red Hat Certified Engineer/Instructor/Examiner
Gerente Ingenieria LinuxCenter S.A.
Canada 239 5to Piso, Providencia, Stgo de Chile.
http://www.linuxcenterla.com +56-2-2745000

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 12        
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 14:07:50 GMT
   From: "peugfan@juno.com" <peugfan@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: 405 part - what is it?

Thanks for all the help, guys. I have everything I need to get the CC going
again. Now what I need is for the temperature in my garage to get above
freezing so I feel like putting it all together. Nothing like a cold
concrete floor to make me decide to watch television instead.

fs

___________________________________________________________________
Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand.
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 13        
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 10:33:19 -0500
   From: "georgebostic" <george@sunsetcoachmen.com>
Subject: Robert Countess

Robert Countess one of the true Peugeotphiles has inoperable brain cancer.
He has chosen to do a raw organic regime with mutiple supplements and is
being advised by a nutritionist/pharmacist. 

Robert dubbed "Alabama Bob" by Brian Holmes is quite the eccentric
character. He has a collection that runs from a 30' truck to his redone
604. A Doctor of Greek Grammer, he is a very learned man, a great ping-pong
player and always a true gentleman.  For those of you that know Bob, I'm
sure that there are many other sides left unmentioned here. 

Any positive thought, vibes and prayers directed toward Tomey, Alabama
would be greatly appreciated by Bob and wife. 

George

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 14        
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 16:40:05 -0000
   From: "Ted Perkins" <ted@tedperkins.com>
Subject: 505 wagon avail to good home

NYC area.  
1989 505DL wagon.  ZDJL motor, 4HP22 Transmission. 
 Fairly new tires + 1 set of winter tires on TRX rims that might get
another winter. 
Work done in early '04:
New middle section of exhaust, transmission mount, retorqued head.
Records since 2000, 
ODO says about 226,000;  but this odometer is a replacement that reads
95,000 miles ahead of actual (per records)
Current & previous owners French car nuts.
Haynes manual included.
Good workhorse car.
$700, obo.  

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 15        
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 16:42:26 -0000
   From: "Rhett Longman " <oorhett@yahoo.com>
Subject: Wheel Adaptor Hub Measurment 505 1991SW8

Does anyone know the front hub dimension on the 91 505 and also the 
bolt pattern and off-set maximums for this car I am about to order 
some wheel adapters and I am hoping these numbers will work. 
These are the adapter specs that I am verifying will work
78MM Bore - to accomodate the hub. Is this large enough?
7" in diamater and are 1.8" thick
original bolt pattern 4/140
going to 5/112 pattern

  Thanks Rhett 

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 16        
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 10:39:34 -0700
   From: "Gary Petersen" <blazing_guitarist@hotmail.com>
Subject: air injector valve 1976 504

i have a 1976 peugeot 504 gas powered sedan

i need an air injector valve.

this part is attached to the top of the rad and and has two hoses one going 
to the carbs and i believe the second one leads to the exhaust

if anyone has any leads on this part i'd greatly appreciate it!

thanks,

gary petersen

1684 Bough Beeches BLVD
Mississauga, ON
L4W 2B8
Canada

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 17        
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 10:42:45 -0700
   From: "Gary Petersen" <blazing_guitarist@hotmail.com>
Subject: speedometer leak  1976 504

i have a 1976 peugeot 504 gas powered sedan

i have a transmission leak where the speedometer cable connects.

how can i fix it?

a new cable?

a new "o" ring?

if anyone has any leads on this parts i'd greatly appreciate it!

thanks,

gary petersen

1684 Bough Beeches BLVD
Mississauga, ON
L4W 2B8
Canada

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 18        
   Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 19:18:40 +0100
   From: "Bagheera" <bagheera@freenet.de>
Subject: AW: speedometer leak  1976 504

Hi Gary !

A rubber-ring 264506 seals the speedo-drive. Maybe you´re able to get it
over you under OE-number or even over the size:

24mm x 28mm x 2mm 

Cheers

Jürgen 
www.simcat.net 

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Gary Petersen [mailto:blazing_guitarist@hotmail.com] 
Gesendet: Dienstag, 25. Januar 2005 18:43
An: peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [Peugeot-L] speedometer leak 1976 504

i have a 1976 peugeot 504 gas powered sedan

i have a transmission leak where the speedometer cable connects.

how can i fix it?

a new cable?

a new "o" ring?

if anyone has any leads on this parts i'd greatly appreciate it!

thanks,

gary petersen

1684 Bough Beeches BLVD
Mississauga, ON
L4W 2B8
Canada

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405 Mi16 89 Ignition Coil source?
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Received on Tue Jan 25 14:17:30 2005

RE: [Peugeot-L] Digest Number 1741