I use an autostart on one car--because it is by necessity always unprotected/can't be plugged in, in howling winter winds (90-100 kph at -20 is not that uncommon here) and baking in mid-afternoon midsummer sun. Fan on full with either heat or a/c...but I use it the way it should be used--30 seconds before I open the door, no longer. Its just to move the air around. The only other thing I always do, especially with high mileage/old cars, especially automatics, is shift to neutral (same with manuals, clutch out) for 12-20 seconds to get things moving and warming, pressure building. (Now, Peugeot automatics are a slightly different sort of beast from say, a Toyota/GM or Studebaker/Ford) but I always engage "drive" first and have it fully seated, before shifting to "reverse" and waiting until it full engages before touching the gas pedal. I have babied many a weak/worn automatic to run for years past its "best before" date, because it is almost invariably the weaker reverse band/clutch
that goes mamms up especially when its -40 and you get impatient. With modern fuel and engine management systems, the longer warm up is not required or desireable for the engine. but with more fragile modern transmissions, especially ones like D/C and GM make with the plastic guts, you still have to pretend you have an egg under your foot and a package of nitro on the seat beside you until it is fully warm, which is about 15 minutes after you get heat output.
But I dare you to try that start-n-go on an older car with a mechancical heat riser and a non-electric carburetor!
Jim Bartley on PEI
94 Corolla A "winter rat"
87 Pug Turbo A "summer rat"
63 Studebaker V8 Wagonaire "good to go in 3 minutes, maybe"
49 Kaiser Special flathead 6 "good to go in four minutes, if its warm out."
gary freeman <riven2649@yahoo.com> wrote:
It will also warm up other components such as your transmission and differential (or transaxle), wheel bearings,etc. Also, if you've ever driven a car with an oil temp gauge, you'll see how much longer it takes to heat up the oil than the coolant; and it's the oil temp that counts ( and usually takes at least 20 mins to reach normal operating temperature ). It's faster warming up your coolant if you leave the heater temp off until the coolant is warmed up as the heater core acts as a small radiator and adds to the cooling of the coolant.
Bill <bdoyle@backpacker.com> wrote: I don't like the idea of a remote starter.
I read the book, DRIVE IT FOREVER by Robert Sikorsky. and here is what he has to say:
"Once you have started a cold engine and the oil pressure gauge or light indicates normal,
place the car gently in gear and get moving. No more than fifteen seconds of engine idling
should be required. Do not try to warm the engine by prolonged idling. Years ago this was
the accepted practice, but with today's engines and increased knowledge of the mechanics
of engine wear and fuel economy, most engineers are in agreement that prolonged idling
of a cold engine will only do harm. A cold idling engine won't warm as fast, lubricate as
efficiently, or burn gasoline as completely as one that is under load. Get that car moving
as fast as possible because this hastens the warm-up, and permits the oil to circulate
better, lubricating vital points at the exact time when they need they most need it. Use
slow to moderate speeds the first few miles and don't race or gun the engine."
-Bill
- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "N9TE" <Fujitsu@t...> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> I'm doing my homework on installing an alarm. My last install went great
> and it has an autostart - something I've grown to appreciate.
>
> I'd like to do this on my 505, however, you must be certain that the car
> isn't in gear when it autostarts (obvious). There are numerous stories on
> the net where some dude sent his car driving off this way.
>
> Is there any way to rig up something that will give a 0/1 voltage when
> in/out of gear? Ya, I know, I'm fishing big time.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts!
>
> K o l l
> 87S
>
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Received on Tue Jan 31 18:17:18 2006
