the old 2 stroke saabs had that window blind too!!!
chris
bobbruce@mts.net wrote:
>
> My 57 Mercedes 180D had a wonderful but not fool proof contraption:
>
> I tough weatherproof window blind mounted in front of the bottom of
> the rad
> a chain ran from its center up and then back across the engine
> and through guides came out at the bottom center of the dash
> It had holder and hook so the chain when pulled raised the blind
> and could be hooked in place
>
> I should have said that I block the rad completely only when really cold
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mike aube
> To: Peugeot List
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 6:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] 405S winter driving
>
> The cardboard in front of the radiator is a really bad idea in my
> opinion. 15 minutes stuck in traffic on a suddenly mild day and you've
> got a cooked engine from overheating since no air can get through. If
> you must restrick air flow, it is best by blocking the front grille
> itself, leaving a bit of air space for the fans to operate and cool
> the engine if necessary. This is Canada afterall and we do get 20deg
> changes overnight if not quicker.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Bruce
> To: brian douglass ; Peugeot List ; R. Hugh Dana
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 1:01 PM
> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 405S winter driving
>
> There are several cold weather design flaws that have lead to
> catastophic engine
> failures on many 405 8 valve engines.
>
> There is no provision for warm air intake in cold weather
> the best Peugeot can come up with is removing the intake
> pipe that connects from the grille to the airfilter box.
>
> I flatten and ovalize a 3 or 4" dia piece of aluminum flex duct
> to fit onto the airfilter intake once the pipe is removed.
> Then bend it around to get the other end to the rear of the engine
> above the exhaust
> manifold to get warm air.
> On the automatics I cut the plastic pipe in half remove the front half and
> connect a piece of flex duct to the exhaust area.
>
> Remove the 2 screens from the oil fill cup, one is in the cap
> the other you have to pull the cup apart to access.
>
> The problem with the design of the hose....
> All engines will produce water vapor in the crankcase getting rid of it is
> important.
> The hose goes down from the fill cup then as it traverses to the left
> side it comes up before it goes down and into the block just
> above the oil pan.
>
> This up sweep forms a water holding trap like in a sink
> The cold air blasting through the rad freezes this water
> forming a solid block of ice in the oil fill and breather hose.
>
> This causes pressure to build in the crankcase oil is pushed out past
> the seals
> and gaskets. And if you discover you are out of oil it won't go past
> the block.
> 2 that I have bought were both self destructed similarily
> the #2 rod came through the front of the block ..no oil.
>
> I cut the oil fill hose apart removing the 90 that goes from the
> upsweeping horisontal down shortening the bottom vertical then connecting
> the hose back together with a 3/4" close 90 copper pipe fitting
> It is a tough push to get the larger end into the hose.
> If you do this right you will have removed the trap...the hose will slope
> down all the way from the bottom of the oil fill cup to the block
> So no water will collect and not freeze.
>
> To limit the blast of cold air at the front of the engine a cut a
> piece of cardboard
> the width of the rad and a few inches higher that the rad
> Pop the rad loose with the spring clips at the top
> Slide the cardboard between the rad and the ac condenser pull the rad
> forward and the clip will grab the rad.
> Fold the remaining cardboard back
> You can pull the cardboard up or push it down to regulate the flow of
> air into the rad
> Currently my rad is blocked off completely it is 32 below.
>
> DON'T FORGET
> DON'T LEAVE IDLING
> DON'T LEND CAR
> DON't FORGET TO REMOVE AS TEMP RISES
>
> Peugeots answer to this fiasco was a hot wire down the oil fill hose
> see below.
> You got the wire if you complained under warranty
> If not it was $275 CD plus installation
> And you will know when the wire burns out becaause of the big bang
> as the #2 rod snaps and pokes a hole in the front of the block
>
> At least the oil fill hose on the Mi16 is all sloping down
> So flex duct from the exhaust to the airfilter and some cardboard
> in front of the rad and Bob's your uncle
>
> Bob Bruce
> Winnipeg
> Great White North
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: brian douglass
> To: Bob Bruce
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 2:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] O2 Sensor Questions 405S
>
> I had this problem with my 405 s but Peugeot had a recall in Canada
> for this problem and fixed it free.Brian
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net <mailto:bobbruce%40mts.net>>
> To: Bill Branch <bill@billbranch.net <mailto:bill%40billbranch.net>>;
> Peugeot List <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:peugeot-L%40yahoogroups.com>>
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 8:59:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] O2 Sensor Questions 405S
>
> The reason the dip stick blew out was because the crankcase venting
> system
> is
> a totally flawed design. In cold weather without modifications you are at
> risk
> of destroying your 8 valve.
>
> Write for detailed modifications and the reasons why your motor will
> self-destruct
> if left to it's druthers
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Branch" <bill@billbranch. net>
> To: "Peugeot List" <peugeot-L@yahoogrou ps.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 5:29 AM
> Subject: [Peugeot-L] O2 Sensor Questions 405S
>
> Hello,
> In the past years I have seen how malfunction of the O2 sensor can
> bring on
> bad running and the CHECK ENGINE light. Once I got it in cold (-10°F)
> when
> the oil blew out the dipstick and soaked the sensor. I got it this year
> after flooding my Mi16 and finally getting it started. Now I think the
> problem has recurred. Three times after driving in very wet winter
> storms,
> after stopping for a short period, the engine will chug along, barely
> idling, and will clear itself up in twenty or thirty seconds, and of
> course
> bring up the self-enrichment fault code. This never happens in dry
> weather.
> I read to never get anything on the outside of the sensor, could
> chemicals
> dumped on the roads cause problems?
>
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Received on Sat Jan 19 19:07:57 2008
