I have seen the results, ranging back to my first 504, of the crappy method with which frozen sludge is dealt by Peugeot. I suppose it reverts to the user and the common sense he chooses to use when confronting cold weather use. I, for one, have the luxury of not using my 405's in brutally cold weather. I shall say I have blown crankcases full of oil all over the engines, and that I shall use discretion, and that I shall never do it again.
Bill
- Original Message -----
From: mike aube
To: Peugeot List
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] 405S winter driving
The cardboard in front of the radiator is a really bad idea in my opinion. 15 minutes stuck in traffic on a suddenly mild day and you've got a cooked engine from overheating since no air can get through. If you must restrick air flow, it is best by blocking the front grille itself, leaving a bit of air space for the fans to operate and cool the engine if necessary. This is Canada afterall and we do get 20deg changes overnight if not quicker.
- Original Message -----
From: Bob Bruce
To: brian douglass ; Peugeot List ; R. Hugh Dana
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 1:01 PM
Subject: [Peugeot-L] 405S winter driving
There are several cold weather design flaws that have lead to catastophic engine
failures on many 405 8 valve engines.
There is no provision for warm air intake in cold weather
the best Peugeot can come up with is removing the intake
pipe that connects from the grille to the airfilter box.
I flatten and ovalize a 3 or 4" dia piece of aluminum flex duct
to fit onto the airfilter intake once the pipe is removed.
Then bend it around to get the other end to the rear of the engine above the exhaust
manifold to get warm air.
On the automatics I cut the plastic pipe in half remove the front half and
connect a piece of flex duct to the exhaust area.
Remove the 2 screens from the oil fill cup, one is in the cap
the other you have to pull the cup apart to access.
The problem with the design of the hose....
All engines will produce water vapor in the crankcase getting rid of it is
important.
The hose goes down from the fill cup then as it traverses to the left
side it comes up before it goes down and into the block just
above the oil pan.
This up sweep forms a water holding trap like in a sink
The cold air blasting through the rad freezes this water
forming a solid block of ice in the oil fill and breather hose.
This causes pressure to build in the crankcase oil is pushed out past the seals
and gaskets. And if you discover you are out of oil it won't go past the block.
2 that I have bought were both self destructed similarily
the #2 rod came through the front of the block ..no oil.
I cut the oil fill hose apart removing the 90 that goes from the
upsweeping horisontal down shortening the bottom vertical then connecting
the hose back together with a 3/4" close 90 copper pipe fitting
It is a tough push to get the larger end into the hose.
If you do this right you will have removed the trap...the hose will slope
down all the way from the bottom of the oil fill cup to the block
So no water will collect and not freeze.
To limit the blast of cold air at the front of the engine a cut a piece of cardboard
the width of the rad and a few inches higher that the rad
Pop the rad loose with the spring clips at the top
Slide the cardboard between the rad and the ac condenser pull the rad
forward and the clip will grab the rad.
Fold the remaining cardboard back
You can pull the cardboard up or push it down to regulate the flow of air into the rad
Currently my rad is blocked off completely it is 32 below.
DON'T FORGET
DON'T LEAVE IDLING
DON'T LEND CAR
DON't FORGET TO REMOVE AS TEMP RISES
Peugeots answer to this fiasco was a hot wire down the oil fill hose
see below.
You got the wire if you complained under warranty
If not it was $275 CD plus installation
And you will know when the wire burns out becaause of the big bang
as the #2 rod snaps and pokes a hole in the front of the block
At least the oil fill hose on the Mi16 is all sloping down
So flex duct from the exhaust to the airfilter and some cardboard
in front of the rad and Bob's your uncle
Bob Bruce
Winnipeg
Great White North
- Original Message -----
From: brian douglass
To: Bob Bruce
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] O2 Sensor Questions 405S
I had this problem with my 405 s but Peugeot had a recall in Canada for this problem and fixed it free.Brian
- Original Message ----
From: Bob Bruce <bobbruce@mts.net>
To: Bill Branch <bill@billbranch.net>; Peugeot List <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 8:59:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] O2 Sensor Questions 405S
The reason the dip stick blew out was because the crankcase venting system
is
a totally flawed design. In cold weather without modifications you are at
risk
of destroying your 8 valve.
Write for detailed modifications and the reasons why your motor will
self-destruct
if left to it's druthers
Bob
- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Branch" <bill@billbranch. net>
To: "Peugeot List" <peugeot-L@yahoogrou ps.com>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 5:29 AM
Subject: [Peugeot-L] O2 Sensor Questions 405S
Hello,
In the past years I have seen how malfunction of the O2 sensor can bring on
bad running and the CHECK ENGINE light. Once I got it in cold (-10°F) when
the oil blew out the dipstick and soaked the sensor. I got it this year
after flooding my Mi16 and finally getting it started. Now I think the
problem has recurred. Three times after driving in very wet winter storms,
after stopping for a short period, the engine will chug along, barely
idling, and will clear itself up in twenty or thirty seconds, and of course
bring up the self-enrichment fault code. This never happens in dry weather.
I read to never get anything on the outside of the sensor, could chemicals
dumped on the roads cause problems?
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Received on Sat Jan 19 19:19:00 2008
