Jim,
This makes sense as the 1999 206 my wife has the coil failed year 2 or 3 and when it was replaced it was ith an upgraded model. Barbies should be fitted with that upgrade from new but we have not experienced further problems but may well still have weakneses. Our problem was hesitation at pulling away and sometimes stalls.
Given the electrical problems I have heard 307 owners suffer it would not surprise me.
Dave
8. RE: Query not answered
From: Jim Bartley
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2006 02:12:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Bartley
Subject: RE: Query not answered
I get what Barbie was saying... the car quit suddenly without a cough, splutter, burble, hiccup or whatever--like the key had been turned off, rather than a slow stall-out as if it was running out of gas or otherwise misfiring or running roughly before quitting.. I have had that EXACT same problem in "Brand X" cars, for two similar but different reasons.
It used to be that an >>ignition coil<< after a few years, and often especially in hot weather, would quit abruptly, and in my Corvairs, it always happened on a slow turn for some reason. By the time you rolled to a stop/put the automatic in neutral, and tried it it would restart, sometimes a few minutes to cool off. The cool-off time would get longer as time went on.. Eventually it would die completely.
Second reason is common on some more modern cars, with ignition lock on the steering wheel. Eventually chaffing of the wires in the column lead to intermittent shorts, but especially while making a turn. When you stop, and straighten out the wheel, the problem goes away sometimes (old cars with the key/starter button on the dash, would have the equivalent problem with the horns blowing when you made a turn, same reason--chaffing wire shorting out, especially on turns)
.
However a 206 (we'll never see one in Canada) is configured as to powered steering/brakes, if the engine quits due to an intermitent electrical fault which effectively cuts the juice just as if the key had been removed, then whether the steering is electric or hydraulic assisted, it would just go dead in your hands. Similarly, the brakes would go "hard" although most cars now have a vaccuum reservoir so that the assist doesn't die immediately. You can still stop, but >>disc<< brakes require much pedal effort--which is why all new cars (with discs) have power brakes. I drive two old cars--63 Studebaker Wagonaire, and a 49 Kaiser Special, and they stop very nicely indeed without power, because they have drum brakes
Sometimes the ignition lock itself is defective (think relatively modern Ford products) and it will cut out some or all of the electrical connections. On a 87 Ford I had, the engine wouldn't quit, but the windshied wipers motors/fans/accessories would quit, until I jiggled the key, or turned off and restarted the engine. Same with a 70's Mazda, and an 80's Dodge I drove
If it is an ignition module that is cutting out, same thing applies. Often, with aging, there are heat-related problems with circuit boards and some connectors--heats expands it and a connection breaks temporarily.
Hope this helps--its not a specific answer, but these things seldom are.
cheers!
Jim Bartley on Prince Edward Island
94 Corolla 284K km (darn, it just won't DIE)
87 505 Turbo 148K km
63 Studebaker V8 Wagonaire 65K miles
49 Kaiser Special flathead 6 42K miles
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Received on Thu Feb 23 15:38:09 2006
