Kari,
I assumed, and assume, that you are talking about the bushings on
either end of the ram on the 505. In order to replace the driver's
side you will have to remove the ram altogether and this is made easier
(it isn't easy at all, no matter what you remove) by removing the
larger p/s lines from the pinion and (tracing them back a bit) also
removing the clip that secures these lines to the frame rail (10mm bolt
head and nut). Once these are moved a bit out of the way it is
somewhat more possible to access the 12mm nuts that secure the lines to
the ram. You should also loosen the smaller p/s ram lines from the
pinion as this will (hopefully) enable you to restart the lines at the
ram without cross threading anything.
To remove the ram you will also have to remove the bolt (19mm) that
goes through the driver's side part of the ram and through the cross
member. It is a good idea to loosen the two 17mm bolts that secure the
rack to the crossmember. You should loosen the nut on the passenger's
side of the ram (19mm) before you loosen the bolts that secure the rack
to the cross member as not doing this could strain the poor delicate
shaft. If you have trouble getting to the 19mm nut at the front of the
cross member it isn't a bad idea to clamp onto the bolt shaft with a
vise grip in the center part of cross member. Also**** remember, on
re-installation, to make sure and put the spacer back between the head
of the bolt and the bushing.
Some members of this list will recommend that you change these two
steel lines that run from the pinion valve to the ram. The last time
that I did this job on a 505 (the day before yesterday) I carefully
inspected the lines with jewelers goggles and since they had not been
leaking and looked good, I reused my old ones. If I were a shop or
didn't care about another $60-70 I would change them.
With the ram disconnected you will have an easy shot at the
passenger's side and a less-than-easy shot at the driver's side.
Unless you have a newer ram the driver's side will have a little eyelet
threaded on it (I counted the threads and replaced it in the exactly as
I removed it) that you can remove to press the old bushing out and the
new one in. It is probably a good idea to remove the eyelet for this
procedure as this will assure that you don't screw up the ram's shaft
while you are replacing the bushing.
The passenger's side can be done with a socket whose o.d. is a
fraction less than the o.d. of the bushing. for the driver's side I
bought a piece of (I think it was female to female) plumbing copper
that was thin enough to fit in the virtually non-existent space
allowed.
As a job, with all the possibilities of cross threading and screwing
things up, it is a bit of a nail biter and, if you are biting your
nails, remember that they may be dirty from removing all this crap.
Make sure that all those dreadful fluid line connections (six in all)
are properly started into the pinion valve (4) and ram (2) before you
tighten them too much. The fittings which are usually a bit off kilter
seem to be crying out to be cross threaded. The job, if you believe in
the afterlife, is the kind of thing that they make people do in hell
that have done horrible things in their life on earth.
Ken
On Mar 13, 2005, at 5:54 PM, Kari Monkala wrote:
>
> Thanks Gene, Don and Kenneth.
>
> I'll replace the bellow in first place, and while there, will take a
> look if the bushing seems to be replaceable.
>
> Kari
>
>
>
>
>
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Received on Sun Mar 13 20:34:31 2005
