Ken,
Thank you very much for all your information on the rack bushings. I
have an 85 N9T here and have had the rack out of the car for the last 5
months. I am located on Long Island here in New York and it is too cold
to work in my garage. ( I am older than you LOL)
One thing here : Please, where did you get the replacement bushings ?
I enjoyed your BIO as well as all the others. I must get busy and write
mine.
This is a great list and it is what makes me keep my cars.
Paul
85 N9T 5 Sp steering rack in basement
87 V6 5 Sp daily driver
kenneth parker wrote:
>Kari,
> I assumed, and assume, that you are talking about the bushings on
>either end of the ram on the 505. In order to replace the driver's
>side you will have to remove the ram altogether and this is made easier
>(it isn't easy at all, no matter what you remove) by removing the
>larger p/s lines from the pinion and (tracing them back a bit) also
>removing the clip that secures these lines to the frame rail (10mm bolt
>head and nut). Once these are moved a bit out of the way it is
>somewhat more possible to access the 12mm nuts that secure the lines to
>the ram. You should also loosen the smaller p/s ram lines from the
>pinion as this will (hopefully) enable you to restart the lines at the
>ram without cross threading anything.
>
> To remove the ram you will also have to remove the bolt (19mm) that
>goes through the driver's side part of the ram and through the cross
>member. It is a good idea to loosen the two 17mm bolts that secure the
>rack to the crossmember. You should loosen the nut on the passenger's
>side of the ram (19mm) before you loosen the bolts that secure the rack
>to the cross member as not doing this could strain the poor delicate
>shaft. If you have trouble getting to the 19mm nut at the front of the
>cross member it isn't a bad idea to clamp onto the bolt shaft with a
>vise grip in the center part of cross member. Also**** remember, on
>re-installation, to make sure and put the spacer back between the head
>of the bolt and the bushing.
>
> Some members of this list will recommend that you change these two
>steel lines that run from the pinion valve to the ram. The last time
>that I did this job on a 505 (the day before yesterday) I carefully
>inspected the lines with jewelers goggles and since they had not been
>leaking and looked good, I reused my old ones. If I were a shop or
>didn't care about another $60-70 I would change them.
>
> With the ram disconnected you will have an easy shot at the
>passenger's side and a less-than-easy shot at the driver's side.
>Unless you have a newer ram the driver's side will have a little eyelet
>threaded on it (I counted the threads and replaced it in the exactly as
>I removed it) that you can remove to press the old bushing out and the
>new one in. It is probably a good idea to remove the eyelet for this
>procedure as this will assure that you don't screw up the ram's shaft
>while you are replacing the bushing.
>
> The passenger's side can be done with a socket whose o.d. is a
>fraction less than the o.d. of the bushing. for the driver's side I
>bought a piece of (I think it was female to female) plumbing copper
>that was thin enough to fit in the virtually non-existent space
>allowed.
>
> As a job, with all the possibilities of cross threading and screwing
>things up, it is a bit of a nail biter and, if you are biting your
>nails, remember that they may be dirty from removing all this crap.
>Make sure that all those dreadful fluid line connections (six in all)
>are properly started into the pinion valve (4) and ram (2) before you
>tighten them too much. The fittings which are usually a bit off kilter
>seem to be crying out to be cross threaded. The job, if you believe in
>the afterlife, is the kind of thing that they make people do in hell
>that have done horrible things in their life on earth.
>Ken
>
>
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Received on Mon Mar 14 07:50:39 2005
