Paul,
Brian Holm, I bet, has a box of them. If not Brian, try
Westernhemispheres.com or Sunset Coachman or my buddy, Marcel (415)
381-1395. The bushing costs about 10 or 12 dollars. I am not that
good at doing repairs, but once I have blundered my way through a job I
can explain it pretty well in detail.
Ken
On Mar 14, 2005, at 7:47 AM, Paul Strickland wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Thank you very much for all your information on the rack bushings. I
> have an 85 N9T here and have had the rack out of the car for the last
> 5 months. I am located on Long Island here in New York and it is too
> cold to work in my garage. ( I am older than you LOL)
>
> One thing here : Please, where did you get the replacement bushings ?
>
> I enjoyed your BIO as well as all the others. I must get busy and
> write mine.
>
> This is a great list and it is what makes me keep my cars.
>
> Paul
>
> 85 N9T 5 Sp steering rack in basement
> 87 V6 5 Sp daily driver
>
>
>
>
> kenneth parker wrote:
>
>> Kari,
>> I assumed, and assume, that you are talking about the bushings on
>> either end of the ram on the 505. In order to replace the driver's
>> side you will have to remove the ram altogether and this is made
>> easier (it isn't easy at all, no matter what you remove) by removing
>> the larger p/s lines from the pinion and (tracing them back a bit)
>> also removing the clip that secures these lines to the frame rail
>> (10mm bolt head and nut). Once these are moved a bit out of the way
>> it is somewhat more possible to access the 12mm nuts that secure the
>> lines to the ram. You should also loosen the smaller p/s ram lines
>> from the pinion as this will (hopefully) enable you to restart the
>> lines at the ram without cross threading anything.
>>
>> To remove the ram you will also have to remove the bolt (19mm) that
>> goes through the driver's side part of the ram and through the cross
>> member. It is a good idea to loosen the two 17mm bolts that secure
>> the rack to the crossmember. You should loosen the nut on the
>> passenger's side of the ram (19mm) before you loosen the bolts that
>> secure the rack to the cross member as not doing this could strain
>> the poor delicate shaft. If you have trouble getting to the 19mm nut
>> at the front of the cross member it isn't a bad idea to clamp onto
>> the bolt shaft with a vise grip in the center part of cross member.
>> Also**** remember, on re-installation, to make sure and put the
>> spacer back between the head of the bolt and the bushing.
>>
>> Some members of this list will recommend that you change these two
>> steel lines that run from the pinion valve to the ram. The last time
>> that I did this job on a 505 (the day before yesterday) I carefully
>> inspected the lines with jewelers goggles and since they had not been
>> leaking and looked good, I reused my old ones. If I were a shop or
>> didn't care about another $60-70 I would change them.
>>
>> With the ram disconnected you will have an easy shot at the
>> passenger's side and a less-than-easy shot at the driver's side.
>> Unless you have a newer ram the driver's side will have a little
>> eyelet threaded on it (I counted the threads and replaced it in the
>> exactly as I removed it) that you can remove to press the old bushing
>> out and the new one in. It is probably a good idea to remove the
>> eyelet for this procedure as this will assure that you don't screw up
>> the ram's shaft while you are replacing the bushing.
>>
>> The passenger's side can be done with a socket whose o.d. is a
>> fraction less than the o.d. of the bushing. for the driver's side I
>> bought a piece of (I think it was female to female) plumbing copper
>> that was thin enough to fit in the virtually non-existent space
>> allowed.
>>
>> As a job, with all the possibilities of cross threading and screwing
>> things up, it is a bit of a nail biter and, if you are biting your
>> nails, remember that they may be dirty from removing all this crap.
>> Make sure that all those dreadful fluid line connections (six in all)
>> are properly started into the pinion valve (4) and ram (2) before you
>> tighten them too much. The fittings which are usually a bit off
>> kilter seem to be crying out to be cross threaded. The job, if you
>> believe in the afterlife, is the kind of thing that they make people
>> do in hell that have done horrible things in their life on earth.
>> Ken
>>
>
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Received on Mon Mar 14 14:07:31 2005
