Bill:
Thanks for that comprehensive run down on the strut rebuild. When Peugeot revised the stut to an offset style around '85 it seemed to eliminate the wear area from the chrome rod. I too have rotated the insert to minimise the wear on early 505 struts. The solution of offsetting the strut platform took a long time to implement, I guess PSA was making too much money selling strut inserts.
As for the oil, PSA solved that little problem by selling me a 350ml can of strut oil with each insert, saved a lot of guesswork, after all who has a metric graduated cylinder sitting around their garage to dole this stuff out?
I had one strut rust out badly on my '86 505, it did not collapse but it did look dangerous. I took the strut to a welder who wanted so much money to repair it so I simply slapped on a strut from an early 505 (concentric style platform) and drove that around for a while. I did eventually find a good replacement and installed it when I sold the car which was then used to rear-end someone, so it sits in buddies yard untill he can figure out what to do about it.
The later 505 has ball bearings in the swivel which replace the needle bearings in the early 505 and 504 struts. The ball bearings seem to do a better job of keeping the grease compared to the needle bearings which regularly dry out, rust and freeze. One other thing, when removing the strut towers I usually have to remove the tie rod from the cross member and the bushing at that point is usually disintegrated so it is best to replace it. Remember to have the car sitting on the ground before tightening the bolt or the bushing will die quicker as the preload twist will rip the bushing apart.
Dan
- Original Message -----
From: Bill
To: peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 11:28 PM
Subject: [Peugeot-L] Re: 505 BUSHINGS AND STRUTS
Good move, Dan.
I remember doing mine a few years ago, and I learned a lot, plus I
had some good help from my friend who has air tools and a nice vise.
Everything went well, except for the typo-from-hell in the Haynes (
I didn't have the factory manual at the time). Anyway, the amount of
oil to refill is off by a decimal point in there, and it is in metric.
Converted, it yields a rediculously low number, like 1.2 ounces. So I
asked someone. I don't know what happened, but I understood them to
say to fill the cylinder with oil. (The proper amount is about 12
ounces). They worked great for a little while, then the seals blew
out of the one. I replaced the car shortly thereafter, so it wasn't a
big deal.
I am not 100% sure, as I haven't actually done it, but I think
Autozone will loan you the spring compressor for free with a deposit
(caution advised goes without saying).
A good thing to do is to plan on primer and paint for the towers
while they are off, as they can be a weak point on the car if
neglected. It was a time-consuming job to clean the rust off. A small
hammer and chisel and a wire brush attached to an air grinder works
wonders. I used some fantastic epoxy primer that my friend turned my
on to, and some black paint.
It's also advisable to drill some drainage holes in the bottom spring
mount to provide for drainage.The newer ones or ones replaced on the
recall have them, but many of the older ones didn't have them, and
water collects there. I've heard stories of the bottom mount rusting
out, failing, and sending the spring into the tire.
Also, clean and grease the needle bearing at the top.Mine were dry,
but the bearing was salvagable.
My friend used the impact wrench to remove the big nut at the top,
while the spring is compressed. He's really good at that stuff.
Also, pay attention to the orientation of the oval plate of the top.
It is supposed be lengthwise with the car. When you are putting the
strut unit back, just pay attention to where it is when you are lining
up the three bolts at the top.
Also, look for any wear on the shaft, for you can turn it to the
other side if need be.
-Bill
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Received on Fri Apr 8 07:26:16 2005
