My 84 505 has been experiencing fuel problems for a while. The
tachymetric relay burnt out in November. A new one lasted three weeks.
On removing the second one I noticed that the fatter white lead (I
don't remember if it was to pin 87 or 30) looked a bit crisp, so I cut
the wire back to a pliable portion and crimped on a new insulated lead.
When I went to reinstall it into the plug the plastic on the plug gave
away. I managed to get the spade connector onto the pin and wrapped
the plug with electrical tape. I then installed a used Bosch relay,
taken from a BMW that had the identical pin configuration and pin
numbers. For several weeks I had "problem free" operation ("problem
free" in the Peugeot sense).
Two days ago, in a hurry to take my daughter somewhere, I got into the
car and tried to start it. It caught for a moment and died. I tried
it again and it didn't catch. I just happened to have a spare used
relay in my glove box and I also just so happened to have all the
under-the- steering-wheel plastic removed giving me immediate access to
the relay. I plugged in the relay and the car started with no problem.
The relay that I had pulled neither looked or smelled burnt (I will do
an autopsy soon).
I am wondering if anyone might be able to advise me on this one. List
member and electronics sabio, (I mean that) Phil, suggested looking at
the wire bundle that leads god-knows-where into the innards of the
dash, or under the rear seat where the wires (I assume) lead to the
pump. I figured that by simply repairing the fried wire leading into
the relay that I had solved the problem.
I have thousands of questions, more questions than my car has wires,
and some of the more prominent ones have to do with continuity and
Onamperage drain. Let me see...
- Can't I, like one does with a battery, disconnect the negative
terminal to the main fuel pump, install a ammeter in series and then
get the fuel pump to crank?
- If question #1 is reasonable what would be an acceptable or
unacceptable statistic to derive at (to see if it is the fault of the
fuel pump)?
- Isn't there a way, as one tests any sort of wire continuity, to
tell if the wire to pin 30 or 87 is giving full juice? This seems more
definitive than trying to trace the wire back through the dash (where I
think I need a sawzall to access).
- One of my BMW expert friends thought that the fuse (#6 in my
manual) should blow before the relay and that it, the fuse, is there to
protect the relay.
Lastly, while recently bleeding the wrecking yards dry of Peugeot
tachymetric relays, I managed to get several that were of a six pin
configuration (as opposed to the seven that my car uses). Is it all
right to modify my seven pin system to function with the six pin and,
if so, how does one go about performing this task? Pins on my seven
pin relay are numbered: 31, 30, 50, 15, 87b, 1, 87. Pins on the six
pin relay are numbered:30, 15, 87b, 31b, 31, 87.
And even more lastly, why is it that this relay listed at $92 and my
flasher relay, that only seems to differ in number of pins as opposed
to any sort of apparent internal construction, cost $21? Does this
have something to do with why Peugeot went out of business in the USA?
Ken
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Received on Tue Apr 12 21:51:07 2005
