Pull the fuse and ensure that the power to the relay is indeed dead. You
never know if it is running unfused somehow. Maybe some idiot has been
messing around in the fusebox.
Keep in mind, ANY resistance on a high current circuit adds up to heat fast!
Here are the possibilities:
- A bad connection was once present at the relay, and until you fix ALL
parts involved completely right or better than right, it will keep failing.
A new good-quality terminal soldered onto the wire at the socket and a new
clean relay should be a trouble-free fix forever. Once you overheat
something, you will not get back the low resistance proper connection and it
will keep failing and melting stuff on one side or the other unless you do
it right and insure a low-resistance connection has been established.
Examples of this are trying to re-use burned contacts, crimping new
terminals on wire that's been overheated, putting a properly done new
terminal on the wire, but having the relay side still burnt, corroded, or
tarnished.
- Rear seat shorting the main pump wiring. - Inexplicably, somehow this is
melting stuff at your relay w/o blowing the fuse.
- Scavenger pump (very likely) or main pump (unlikely) draining too much
current because it has failed or failing - Again, some weird strange cosmic
aberration allowing enough current to fail your relay stuff without blowing
the fuse.
Until you figure out what's going on here, I would just bypass the relay
completely and make sure the pumps are connected to a PROPERLY FUSED line
that comes on with the key. It's perfectly fine to run the pumps this way.
Or better yet, Bring the car over to me and let me look at it! In the time
it takes me to write the email, I can probably diagnose it.
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "kenneth parker" <elkeni@mac.com>
To: "peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com List'" <peugeot-l@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 9:48 PM
Subject: [Peugeot-L] 505 XN6) tachymetric tachycardia
>
> My 84 505 has been experiencing fuel problems for a while. The
> tachymetric relay burnt out in November. A new one lasted three weeks.
> On removing the second one I noticed that the fatter white lead (I
> don't remember if it was to pin 87 or 30) looked a bit crisp, so I cut
> the wire back to a pliable portion and crimped on a new insulated lead.
> When I went to reinstall it into the plug the plastic on the plug gave
> away. I managed to get the spade connector onto the pin and wrapped
> the plug with electrical tape. I then installed a used Bosch relay,
> taken from a BMW that had the identical pin configuration and pin
> numbers. For several weeks I had "problem free" operation ("problem
> free" in the Peugeot sense).
>
> Two days ago, in a hurry to take my daughter somewhere, I got into the
> car and tried to start it. It caught for a moment and died. I tried
> it again and it didn't catch. I just happened to have a spare used
> relay in my glove box and I also just so happened to have all the
> under-the- steering-wheel plastic removed giving me immediate access to
> the relay. I plugged in the relay and the car started with no problem.
> The relay that I had pulled neither looked or smelled burnt (I will do
> an autopsy soon).
>
> I am wondering if anyone might be able to advise me on this one. List
> member and electronics sabio, (I mean that) Phil, suggested looking at
> the wire bundle that leads god-knows-where into the innards of the
> dash, or under the rear seat where the wires (I assume) lead to the
> pump. I figured that by simply repairing the fried wire leading into
> the relay that I had solved the problem.
>
> I have thousands of questions, more questions than my car has wires,
> and some of the more prominent ones have to do with continuity and
> amperage drain. Let me see...
> 1. Can't I, like one does with a battery, disconnect the negative
> terminal to the main fuel pump, install a ammeter in series and then
> get the fuel pump to crank?
> 2. If question #1 is reasonable what would be an acceptable or
> unacceptable statistic to derive at (to see if it is the fault of the
> fuel pump)?
> 3. Isn't there a way, as one tests any sort of wire continuity, to
> tell if the wire to pin 30 or 87 is giving full juice? This seems more
> definitive than trying to trace the wire back through the dash (where I
> think I need a sawzall to access).
> 4. One of my BMW expert friends thought that the fuse (#6 in my
> manual) should blow before the relay and that it, the fuse, is there to
> protect the relay.
>
> Lastly, while recently bleeding the wrecking yards dry of Peugeot
> tachymetric relays, I managed to get several that were of a six pin
> configuration (as opposed to the seven that my car uses). Is it all
> right to modify my seven pin system to function with the six pin and,
> if so, how does one go about performing this task? Pins on my seven
> pin relay are numbered: 31, 30, 50, 15, 87b, 1, 87. Pins on the six
> pin relay are numbered:30, 15, 87b, 31b, 31, 87.
>
> And even more lastly, why is it that this relay listed at $92 and my
> flasher relay, that only seems to differ in number of pins as opposed
> to any sort of apparent internal construction, cost $21? Does this
> have something to do with why Peugeot went out of business in the USA?
> Ken
>
>
>
>
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Received on Wed Apr 13 12:02:56 2005
