The latest development in my relay ordeal has led me to believe that
it is the plug (the plug that plugs into the seven pin relay) that is
defective. This idea was sparked by a suggestion from Phil and my
wiggling the wires by the relay.
Yesterday I traced the wires back from the seven pin plug and noticed
that they went to a six plug female connector. I assume that this
length of wires (that include the seven pin plug and run to the 6 pin
female connector) is what is referred to in some Peugeot circles as the
"pigtail."
I looked at the wire numbers that ran to the connector from under the
dash and noted that they were the identical numbered wires that I had
obtained at a wrecker a few weeks ago (in removing a six pin relay I
took a cut of the wires so that I would know what numbers led to the
relay -if this makes sense).
I unplugged the "pigtail" from this six pin female connector and
observed that one of the six pin tachymetric relays would fit perfectly
into the connector and (again) that it matched the numbered wires
leading to the connecter that I clipped at the wrecker.
Then I plugged the "pigtail" back in. A half hour later I started the
car and drove off. After 100 yards it stalled out. Rather then
install yet another seven pin relay into the questionable plug I simply
disconnected the "pigtail" and plugged a six pin relay into the
connecter that the "pigtail" had been connected to. The car started
with no problem and has started about seven times since.
Questions are:
1. I assume that the "pigtail" is an "improvement", but is it
necessary?
2. Is the "pigtail" piece of wiring with its seven pin and six pin
plugs available new?
3. If not, where can I find a new seven pin plug (new, not used)?
Thanks,
Ken
On Apr 12, 2005, at 9:48 PM, kenneth parker wrote:
> My 84 505 has been experiencing fuel problems for a while. The
> tachymetric relay burnt out in November. A new one lasted three
> weeks.
> On removing the second one I noticed that the fatter white lead (I
> don't remember if it was to pin 87 or 30) looked a bit crisp, so I cut
> the wire back to a pliable portion and crimped on a new insulated
> lead.
> When I went to reinstall it into the plug the plastic on the plug
> gave
> away. I managed to get the spade connector onto the pin and wrapped
> the plug with electrical tape. I then installed a used Bosch relay,
> taken from a BMW that had the identical pin configuration and pin
> numbers. For several weeks I had "problem free" operation ("problem
> free" in the Peugeot sense).
>
> Two days ago, in a hurry to take my daughter somewhere, I got
> into the
> car and tried to start it. It caught for a moment and died. I tried
> it again and it didn't catch. I just happened to have a spare used
> relay in my glove box and I also just so happened to have all the
> under-the- steering-wheel plastic removed giving me immediate access
> to
> the relay. I plugged in the relay and the car started with no
> problem.
> The relay that I had pulled neither looked or smelled burnt (I will
> do
> an autopsy soon).
>
> I am wondering if anyone might be able to advise me on this
> one. List
> member and electronics sabio, (I mean that) Phil, suggested looking at
> the wire bundle that leads god-knows-where into the innards of the
> dash, or under the rear seat where the wires (I assume) lead to the
> pump. I figured that by simply repairing the fried wire leading into
> the relay that I had solved the problem.
>
> I have thousands of questions, more questions than my car has
> wires,
> and some of the more prominent ones have to do with continuity and
> amperage drain. Let me see...
> 1. Can't I, like one does with a battery, disconnect the
> negative
> terminal to the main fuel pump, install a ammeter in series and then
> get the fuel pump to crank?
> 2. If question #1 is reasonable what would be an acceptable or
> unacceptable statistic to derive at (to see if it is the fault of the
> fuel pump)?
> 3. Isn't there a way, as one tests any sort of wire
> continuity, to
> tell if the wire to pin 30 or 87 is giving full juice? This seems
> more
> definitive than trying to trace the wire back through the dash (where
> I
> think I need a sawzall to access).
> 4. One of my BMW expert friends thought that the fuse (#6 in my
> manual) should blow before the relay and that it, the fuse, is there
> to
> protect the relay.
>
> Lastly, while recently bleeding the wrecking yards dry of
> Peugeot
> tachymetric relays, I managed to get several that were of a six pin
> configuration (as opposed to the seven that my car uses). Is it all
> right to modify my seven pin system to function with the six pin and,
> if so, how does one go about performing this task? Pins on my seven
> pin relay are numbered: 31, 30, 50, 15, 87b, 1, 87. Pins on the six
> pin relay are numbered:30, 15, 87b, 31b, 31, 87.
>
> And even more lastly, why is it that this relay listed at $92
> and my
> flasher relay, that only seems to differ in number of pins as opposed
> to any sort of apparent internal construction, cost $21? Does this
> have something to do with why Peugeot went out of business in the USA?
> Ken
>
>
>
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Received on Thu Apr 14 11:10:20 2005
