No! The 2 wires are both positive on that one!
They probably also incorporate an inductor in there between the 2. That
one is installed on the "small wire" that comes from the alternator
(battery) light on the dash. The other one with the single wire is
connected to the B+ terminal (alternator output).
Both are to help reduce "whine" and slip ring noise that may find it's way
into the other electrical systems, mainly the audio system, but sometimes
can cause leakage into other systems in conjunction with another fault (high
resistance in a connection somewhere), and cause problems.
You can simply bypass the thing by plugging the small wire directly into the
alternator instead of the capacitor. The earlier models didn't even have
them. The important one is the one on the B+ terminal.
If you experience any electrical interference such as noise in your audio,
or random lighting of the ABS light, etc., Then you will probably want to
replace it.
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pug NZ" <pug-yahoo2@azorah.co.nz>
To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>; "markjamesborley"
<mark.borley@conselo.co.uk>
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 3:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] 505 GTD - Broken alternator component - please
help!
> If it is a capacitor = supressor = condensor, then the two wires will be
> the
> + and - wires, and the tab on the back is solely a mount. Normally with
> the
> 1 wire version, the tab or case of the capacitor acts as the - terminal.
> Normally the capacitor is mounted with the -ve to earth, and the positive
> to
> somewhere in the circuit that could be noisy, eg the alternator output.
> When
> there is DC current only, the capacitor does basically nothing, but when
> there is an AC component, the capacitor charges and discharges to reduce
> the
> size of the fluctuations.
>
> The notations indicate that it is a 2.2µF (microfarad) capacitor. (BTW, to
> type the µ, just hold down the [Alt] key, then type 0181 on the number
> pad,
> and release the [Alt] key. There are codes for heaps of useful symbols,
> such
> as ², ³, °, µ etc.
>
> Kevin
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: markjamesborley
> To: peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 9:28 PM
> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 505 GTD - Broken alternator component - please help!
>
>
> Can someone help me identify a component attached to the alternator
> of my 1985 505 GTD and tell me if my proposed substitute replacement
> will work, as I'm unable to obtain an exact replacement in the UK.
>
> The component in question is bolted to the back of the alternator.
> There are 2 that look similar and they're both bolted to the same
> lug, but the one that's broken has 2 leads coming out of it whereas
> the other only has one. I'm told it may be a suppressor, but the
> people who have seen it have not seen one with 2 leads before.
>
> Here's a more detailed description of the component. It's a black
> plastic rectangle, 30mm high x 20mm wide x 13mm deep. It has a metal
> lug at the top that's used to bolt it to the back of the alternator
> and 2 wires emerging from the bottom, one of which is connected to
> the alternator and the other to the wiring loom. The 2 wires emerge
> from the component at the same place but of course that doesn't mean
> they're connected to the same thing inside, although they might be.
>
> The markings on the component are as follows, starting at the top
> i.e. nearest the metal lug:
> FACON
> Then a "-" in a circle with an arrow pointing up and on the same
> line a "+" in a circle with an arrow pointing down.
> 2022
> Then a large "+" symbol with the number 84 at the centre.
> 2.2 microF (it actually uses the Greek symbol for "micro", which
> looks like a "u" with a long tail, but I can't type that on my
> keyboard)
> MADE IN FRANCE
>
> The problem is that one of the wires has broken where it emerges
> from the plastic. When this happens (and its happened twice now) the
> battery doesn't charge so eventually the engine stops (which is a
> bugger, because I'd heard these engines would keep going until they
> run out of diesel, but it seems they need power to keep a fuel
> solenoid open, so no electrical power means no engine!).
>
> As a temporary repair I've scraped away the plastic enough to solder
> the wire back but its only a matter of time before it goes again.
>
> I can get a suppressor that looks just like the broken one for £1
> EXCEPT it only has one wire coming out of the bottom. My question
> is, if I get one of these, can I simply branch the single wire to
> the 2 connections (back to the alternator and to the wiring loom)?
> Put another way, in my original (broken) component, do the 2 wires
> that emerge from the bottom have a common connection inside? I'm
> wary of simply trying it to see what happens because I don't want to
> damage the alternator (or any other electrical component the other
> wire may be connected to via the wiring loom) if it doesn't work.
>
> Grateful for any help that may be offered!
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Received on Thu Apr 28 10:45:55 2005
