Yep Clear as mud, but it is good enough for me.
Anyone know about this pre-fuel-filter looking canister in front of the left
wheel well by the radiator? I would pull it off but it is difficult to
reach. I did get the top cover off and indeed there is a fuel filter
submersed in a clear canister. Seems like a good idea but poor placement. I
may relocate it. I looked like the filter paper was clean and white so I
just put it back.
Brian Rodgers
On 4/16/06, Mike Aube <maube@idirect.com> wrote:
>
> Torque to yield head bolts are where you torque the head bolt ( most are
> around 30lbs/ft) then give it another 90 deg (+ another 90 on the 405)
> rotation to stretch the bolt to constant pressure. Probably clear as mud.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Rodgers" <brians.outfit@gmail.com>
> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 4:38 PM
> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 505 Diesel radiators & heater core by-pass
>
>
> > Sweet, I still have it in the garage. Now that I know better how to pull
> > the
> > valve cover I might do the head torque right now. Afterward I will check
> > the
> > valve adjustment again. For now I replaced the heater hose leaving it to
> > bypass the core. What do you mean by "not torque to yield"?
> > Actually this is very encouraging. I think I will go do the torque right
> > now, anything to keep from pulling the head.
> > Thanks
> > BrianRodgers
> >
On
> > On 4/16/06, Mike Aube <maube@idirect.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Darn, I had forgotten that you had mentioned that. Should have
> suggested
> >> that you retorque the head before doing the valve adjustment. The head
> >> bolts
> >> on the 81/82 are not torque to yield and sometimes loosen up enough to
> >> let
> >> some gas through to the cooling system. A retorque, when caught on
> time,
> >> cures that.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
On
> >> From: "Brian Rodgers" <brians.outfit@gmail.com>
> >> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
> >> Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 11:08 AM
> >> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 505 Diesel radiators & heater core by-pass
> >>
> >>
> >> >I too am working with a diesel coolant system. I have a 1981 505s TD
> >> >XD2S
> >> > engine. Yesterday I did the valve adjustment. They were not off by
> >> > much,
> >> a
> >> > little tight. I spent the rest of the day replacing hoses and
> generally
> >> > investigating my new car. While I have the coolant reservoir off for
> >> > the
> >> > valve adjustment I checked the hoses going to the heater core. One
> has
> >> > been
> >> > cut off at the firewall the other removed from the right rear head
> port
> >> > and
> >> > the hose which comes from the cluster by the water pump goes back
> into
> >> the
> >> > head bypassing the heater.
> >> > I got this car cheap from a used car dealership because their
> mechanic
> >> > said
> >> > bubbles in the radiator mean blown head gasket. I wrote about this
> when
> >> I
> >> > first joined this wonderful group last Summer. I have decided to
> drive
> >> the
> >> > car as it is not blowing out coolant hoses. I investigated the
> heater
> >> > core
> >> > and it looks like the valve is what was leaking.
> >> > Here is my hypothesis: I believe the valve couldn't handle the
> >> > increase
> >> > in
> >> > coolant pressure due to either an obstruction or a head gasket leak.
> >> After
> >> > seeing the heater core bypass job, I think this car has been
> >> pressurising
> >> > the coolant lines for a long time. I am considering installing a
> valve
> >> in
> >> > the hose going to the heater core, to protect the heater valve in the
> >> > Summer. Any thoughts on this?
> >> >
> >> > During my investigation under the hood, I am looking at this canister
> >> > in
> >> > front of the vacuum bottle. It has two fuel lines and what looks to
> be
> >> > a
> >> > fuel reservoir in the bottom. Perhaps a pre-fuel filter/strainer
> water
> >> > separator thing? I can't figure out how to pull it out for
> maintenance.
> >> It
> >> > is mounted to the left hand wheel well with plumbers strap, so it may
> >> > be
> >> > an
> >> > add-on. It has some kind of drain in the bottom, which goes through
> the
> >> > wheel well to the ground. I can't tell if it was original equipment
> or
> >> > what.
> >> > Please advise
> >> >
> >> > Sincerely,
> >> > Brian Rodgers
> >> >
> >> >
On
> >> > On 4/15/06, Brian Holm <peugeots@vtlink.net> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Richard,
> >> >>
> >> >> The radiators should be equal in performance. There isn't a factory
> >> >> hose that will connect your water pump with that radiator, but there
> >> >> is an aftermarket one that will work fine. You could use 604 lines
> >> >> to connect the transmission with the heat exchanger. That would
> >> >> probably be preferable to an external cooler.
> >> >>
> >> >> Brian Holm, Used and New Parts for Peugeots
> >> >>
> >> >> At 06:03 PM 4/15/2006, pugmanvancan wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >Hi, hoping someone more knowledgeable than I can give their two
> cents
> >> >> >worth. I have received (thanks Chuck) a replacement radiator for my
> >> >> >'85 XD2S turbo diesel. It came out of a 604 TD so is slightly
> >> >> >different to the one in my '85 505. Firstly the top hose connects
> to
> >> >> >the same side as the bottom hose and secondly the auto trans
> cooling
> >> >> >lines are on the opposite side. Ok so I can get around the trans
> >> >> >cooling by going with an aftermarket cooler but will it make a
> >> >> >difference to engine cooling if I now have both hoses connecting to
> >> >> >the same side. How does the cooling compare between radiators?
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Will I have better, worse or the same cooling with the replacement?
> >> >> >
> >> >> >cheers
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Richard
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >> Brian Holm, Parts for Peugeots
> >> >> at Peugeot Holm, since 1969
> >> >> 2120 Maple Hill
> >> >> Plainfield, VT, 05667
> >> >> 802-454-7132, fax -1310
>
--
High tech in the wild wild west.
www.outfitnm.com
Our cool old machines:
1981 Peugeot 505s TD
1974 Mercedes 250
1974 BMW Bavaria
1956 International Utility 460 Tractor
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Received on Sun Apr 16 18:54:40 2006
