Relays are quite simple to test. One of the few devices where
standardization came into play, most relays have a two wires to turn on the
electro-magnet activator which in turn opens one set of contacts and closes
another. Most are marked the same on the side of the relay housing. 85 &
86 power, 87a & 87 Normally Open and Normally Closed contacts and last is
30 power to the NO & NC contacts.
I test relays in place. This also helps determine if you are on the proper
relay. Because when energized it will turn on the device, for instance, fan,
lights, horn. You can do these tests with the key off and the battery hooked
up.
Have a test light ready to determine if there is power and ground at the
relay. Some circuits close the ground side, some close the positive side.
Look at 85 & 86 with the test light. To test for power hook the clip from
the test light to the metal on the engine. Probe each connector on the
relay. To test for ground hook the test light clip to the battery (+)
To test a relay simply energize the electro-magnet leads at 85 & 86. If
power is missing add it, if ground is missing add it, rarely are both
missing. Also I might add that in thirty years of trouble shooting I have
not seen too many relays go bad. It is usually on either side of the relay.
Relays add a perfect point of entry for trouble shooting.
I hope this helps.
Brian Rodgers
On 4/18/06, t505sw <limonat@lycos.com> wrote:
>
> I have the same problem on my '86 505 Turbo gas sw N9TE. I haven't
> taken a look though I did clean the 3 relays behind the LH head light.
>
> George Nunez had a good explanation of:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/peugeot-L/message/41843?source=1
>
> The usual summer time cooling probs. Peugeot Pete took the time to write a
> good interpretation of a/c pressure readings, here are the switch
> functions.
> ZDJL 2.2i, N9TXX, ZN3J v6
>
> With manual in hand, the TRINARY SWITCH (an A/C PRESSURE SENSOR) on
> the hi
> side hose near the drier on the turbo, controls the fans and the
> compressor:
>
> TRINARY.... 3 PRESSURE settings that control fans and compressor
> 1) at below ~22 psi cuts out compressor (not enough Freon)
> 2) at above ~275 psi put electric fans to hi speed
> 3) at above ~350 psi cut out compressor
>
> COOLANT TEMP sensor on the front of the thermostat housing
> 1) at 220F cuts out the a/c
>
> RAD FAN SWITCH on rad by air filter (3 versions: cooler, std, and
> hotter ):
> 1) turn on electric fans on low and engage the clutchable fan at first
> temp
> of ( 82C=180F cooler) or 88C=190F std)
> 2) at 92C=198F std. fans go to hi speed ( the first contacts remain
> closed)
>
> How do I tell if the relays are good?
>
> Cheers,
>
> --L
>
>
> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Rodgers" <brians.outfit@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Mind that my car is a 1981 505s Turbo Diesel
> > But yeah, the belt driven fan is connected to the same relay as the
> aux fan.
> > I almost took the fan clutch apart until I realised it has an electric
> > clutch. I found the wire going to the fan and put 12VDC to it while the
> > engine was off, bingo the clutch kicked in and the fan was solid (not
> > turning) with the belt.
> > I hope this helps.
> > I have received so much help from this group it feels really great
> to give
> > something back.
> > Brian Rodgers
> >
> > On 4/17/06, blade44m <zaphod44@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > So what you're saying is that the belt driven fan only comes on along
> > > with the electric fan? If that's the case, the sensor is probably
> > > good since my electric fan works fine. I'll check the belt fan next
> > > time the electric one comes on. I thought the fan clutch was purely
> > > mechanical...my truck has kind of a reverse centrifucal clutch...the
> > > fan spins whenever the vehicle idles, and stops while you drive.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Rodgers" <brians.outfit@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have worked on this issue.
> > > > There is a thermo switch on the left side of the radiator. When
> > > energized by
> > > > hot coolant it switches on both the electric fan and the electric
> > > clutch on
> > > > the belt driven fan. Fix it before you are dealing with leaking
> > > head gasket
> > > > issues like I am. I bypassed mine to test it. Simply remove the two
> > > pushon
> > > > plugs and tie them together with a jumper wire. The fans should all
> > > turn on.
> > > > Replace the thermo-switch. Which reminds me, I need one too. I
> > > disconnected
> > > > the auxiliary fan and am running the belt driven fan constantly.
> > > This keeps
> > > > the engine from over-heating but probably not the proper engine
> > > temp.
> > > > Brian Rodgers
> > > >
> > > > On 4/17/06, blade44m <zaphod44@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hey guys-
> > > > >
> > > > > I think I'm having problems with the fan clutch in my 1980 505
> > > SD. It
> > > > > seems like the fan never spins. Even with the car warmed up and
> > > > > idling, I can stop it with my finger. When exactly is this fan
> > > > > supposed to engage and disengage, and how can I test it? The car
> > > runs
> > > > > at the proper temp while moving, but as soon as I stop, the temp
> > > goes
> > > > > up the the middle line and the electric fan kicks in to cool it
> > > > > down...but I don't think this should be needed in the winter.
> > > > > Thanks in advance for the advice....
> > >
> >
--
High tech in the wild wild west.
www.outfitnm.com
Our cool old machines:
1981 Peugeot 505s TD
1974 Mercedes 250
1974 BMW Bavaria
1956 International Utility 460 Tractor
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Received on Tue Apr 18 07:34:05 2006
