You are very welcome.
Brian Rodgers
On 4/18/06, t505sw <limonat@lycos.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> That writeup was very helpful, especially for me since I am just beginning
> to maintain the
> car myself. Also, even highly recommended mechanics I have taken it to
> aren't that
> effective in the diagnosis of intermittents and other things (like the
> ign. switch problem).
>
> Thanks again!
>
> --L
>
> 505 86 505 Turbo Gas SW N9TE
>
> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Rodgers" <brians.outfit@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Relays are quite simple to test. One of the few devices where
> > standardization came into play, most relays have a two wires to turn on
> the
> > electro-magnet activator which in turn opens one set of contacts and
> closes
> > another. Most are marked the same on the side of the relay housing. 85
> &
> > 86 power, 87a & 87 Normally Open and Normally Closed contacts and last
> is
> > 30 power to the NO & NC contacts.
> >
> > I test relays in place. This also helps determine if you are on the
> proper
> > relay. Because when energized it will turn on the device, for instance,
> fan,
> > lights, horn. You can do these tests with the key off and the battery
> hooked
> > up.
> > Have a test light ready to determine if there is power and ground at the
> > relay. Some circuits close the ground side, some close the positive
> side.
> > Look at 85 & 86 with the test light. To test for power hook the clip
> from
> > the test light to the metal on the engine. Probe each connector on the
> > relay. To test for ground hook the test light clip to the battery (+)
> > To test a relay simply energize the electro-magnet leads at 85 & 86. If
> > power is missing add it, if ground is missing add it, rarely are both
> > missing. Also I might add that in thirty years of trouble shooting I
> have
> > not seen too many relays go bad. It is usually on either side of the
> relay.
> > Relays add a perfect point of entry for trouble shooting.
> > I hope this helps.
> > Brian Rodgers
> >
> > On 4/18/06, t505sw <limonat@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have the same problem on my '86 505 Turbo gas sw N9TE. I haven't
> > > taken a look though I did clean the 3 relays behind the LH head light.
> > >
> > > George Nunez had a good explanation of:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/peugeot-L/message/41843?source=1
> > >
> > > The usual summer time cooling probs. Peugeot Pete took the time to
> write a
> > > good interpretation of a/c pressure readings, here are the switch
> > > functions.
> > > ZDJL 2.2i, N9TXX, ZN3J v6
> > >
> > > With manual in hand, the TRINARY SWITCH (an A/C PRESSURE SENSOR) on
> > > the hi
> > > side hose near the drier on the turbo, controls the fans and the
> > > compressor:
> > >
> > > TRINARY.... 3 PRESSURE settings that control fans and compressor
> > > 1) at below ~22 psi cuts out compressor (not enough Freon)
> > > 2) at above ~275 psi put electric fans to hi speed
> > > 3) at above ~350 psi cut out compressor
> > >
> > > COOLANT TEMP sensor on the front of the thermostat housing
> > > 1) at 220F cuts out the a/c
> > >
> > > RAD FAN SWITCH on rad by air filter (3 versions: cooler, std, and
> > > hotter ):
> > > 1) turn on electric fans on low and engage the clutchable fan at first
> > > temp
> > > of ( 82C=180F cooler) or 88C=190F std)
> > > 2) at 92C=198F std. fans go to hi speed ( the first contacts remain
> > > closed)
> > >
> > > How do I tell if the relays are good?
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > --L
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Rodgers" <brians.outfit@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Mind that my car is a 1981 505s Turbo Diesel
> > > > But yeah, the belt driven fan is connected to the same relay as the
> > > aux fan.
> > > > I almost took the fan clutch apart until I realised it has an
> electric
> > > > clutch. I found the wire going to the fan and put 12VDC to it while
> the
> > > > engine was off, bingo the clutch kicked in and the fan was solid
> (not
> > > > turning) with the belt.
> > > > I hope this helps.
> > > > I have received so much help from this group it feels really great
> > > to give
> > > > something back.
> > > > Brian Rodgers
> > > >
> > > > On 4/17/06, blade44m <zaphod44@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > So what you're saying is that the belt driven fan only comes on
> along
> > > > > with the electric fan? If that's the case, the sensor is probably
> > > > > good since my electric fan works fine. I'll check the belt fan
> next
> > > > > time the electric one comes on. I thought the fan clutch was
> purely
> > > > > mechanical...my truck has kind of a reverse centrifucal
> clutch...the
> > > > > fan spins whenever the vehicle idles, and stops while you drive.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Rodgers" <brians.outfit@>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have worked on this issue.
> > > > > > There is a thermo switch on the left side of the radiator. When
> > > > > energized by
> > > > > > hot coolant it switches on both the electric fan and the
> electric
> > > > > clutch on
> > > > > > the belt driven fan. Fix it before you are dealing with leaking
> > > > > head gasket
> > > > > > issues like I am. I bypassed mine to test it. Simply remove the
> two
> > > > > pushon
> > > > > > plugs and tie them together with a jumper wire. The fans should
> all
> > > > > turn on.
> > > > > > Replace the thermo-switch. Which reminds me, I need one too. I
> > > > > disconnected
> > > > > > the auxiliary fan and am running the belt driven fan constantly.
> > > > > This keeps
> > > > > > the engine from over-heating but probably not the proper engine
> > > > > temp.
> > > > > > Brian Rodgers
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On 4/17/06, blade44m <zaphod44@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hey guys-
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I think I'm having problems with the fan clutch in my 1980 505
> > > > > SD. It
> > > > > > > seems like the fan never spins. Even with the car warmed up
> and
> > > > > > > idling, I can stop it with my finger. When exactly is this fan
> > > > > > > supposed to engage and disengage, and how can I test it? The
> car
> > > > > runs
> > > > > > > at the proper temp while moving, but as soon as I stop, the
> temp
> > > > > goes
> > > > > > > up the the middle line and the electric fan kicks in to cool
> it
> > > > > > > down...but I don't think this should be needed in the winter.
> > > > > > > Thanks in advance for the advice....
>
--
High tech in the wild wild west.
www.outfitnm.com
Our cool old machines:
1981 Peugeot 505s TD
1974 Mercedes 250
1974 BMW Bavaria
1956 International Utility 460 Tractor
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Received on Tue Apr 18 11:52:54 2006
