[Peugeot-L]Doing Battle - '85 505 N9T

I never heard of a Hall effect sensor in an alternator either. I installed a set on the tranny tail piece of a Mercedes I converted from old diesel to modern gas in order to make the electronic speedo work. But anyway electronic ignitions also use them on the distributor shaft for timing. The scope you said the car is on should be able to show you what the spark looks like. Nice description for those who want to know more about Hall effect sensors: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect Brian Rodgers

OnOn 4/19/06, John Parsons <roverlad@telus.net> wrote:
>
> Peat,
>
> Are you sure you mean alternator? There is a HAL effect device in the
> distributor but the alternator?
>
> John
>
> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, P Young <goodandloud@...> wrote:
> >
> > One thing you didn't mention, though you might have already checked
> > this is the hall effect device in the alternator. I had similar
> > symptoms when mine was on the way out. Unfortunately it's difficult to
> > just replace the device, easier to just replace with a known good
> > alternator. There's a check for it in the manual.
> >
> > Peat
> >
> > On Apr 19, 2006, at 10:07 AM, John Parsons wrote:
> >
> > > Well, I would say that we are pretty close to junking this car.
> > > Perfect body, new paint, good interior but this electrical gremlin we
> > > are chasing is getting the better of us. The problem started with an
> > > intermittent starting/running problem. Car would fire but die as soon
> > > as you let off the key. Investigation of relays, etc. did not really
> > > fix anything but after fiddling with connections and the like we have
> > > not seen that problem for a few weeks now.
> > >
> > > Now the problem, and it is intermittent to some extent is as follows;
> > > - as soon as micro switch is opened we get 6 flashes of the
> detination
> > > light
> > > - car has a horrible miss which seems to be the injection system
> > > cutting out
> > > - sometimes it will not idle, but just dies after running (length of
> > > time varies)
> > > - other times it will idle and run fine, no light even, then it just
> > > goes for sh!t again (this is all just sitting on the shop floor, not
> > > changing anything, just trying to get the pattern to repeat so we can
> > > nail down the problem.
> > >
> > > We have checked, tweaked and or replaced the following;
> > > - all relevant relays, including tachometric
> > > - throttle microswitch (gave wrong reading when open so we
> replaced it)
> > > - throttle potentiometer – replaced and reset
> > > - various temp sensors checked
> > > - tried other MAF unit, no difference
> > > - tried injection and ignition ECU's from well running car. While
> the
> > > injection ECU from the bad car makes the good runner run like crap and
> > > stall, the ECU from the good car has little effect in the bad (bad,
> > > bad, very bad!) car.
> > > - As per manual, relevant ECU wires checked for continuity or
> > > resistance values – OK
> > >
> > > Car has been hooked to scope and ignition side looks good. Injection
> > > seems to be the problem but for the life of us we cannot figure out
> > > what is causing it to act up. As I said, it can be idling and just
> > > die. When trying to drive it while it is acting up, it is as if the
> > > injection shuts down and then starts again – result is that of a
> > > horrible miss. It might then just clear up for a little while and
> > > then start all over again.
> > >
> > > I am sure we have tried things that I have forgotten to mention but
> > > this is getting long. Anyone have any ideas?
> > >
> > > John
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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--
High tech in the wild wild west.
www.outfitnm.com
Our cool old machines:
1981 Peugeot 505s TD
1974 Mercedes 250
1974 BMW Bavaria
1956 International Utility 460 Tractor


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