Shortly after joining this list, I came across a few problems with my
505 that didn't seem to be from the same planet as the ones they
wrote about in the Haynes manual (which I obtained at great expense
and with a similar good deal of trouble from the only source I could
find on the web - in the UK. Dam thing ended up costing over
$80.00, for a disappointingly tacky newsprint book from as mentioned
before, some other planet.)
It covers two fuel injection systems. Both Jetronic, neither mine.
Mine has the air filter on the left side of the engine, rather than
with a crossover induction pipe to a right-side location as shown in
the pulp fiction manual I have. Mine also has a distribution pump
with 4 output lines going to what I presume are four port injectors
located at the point at which the induction manifold connects to the
head. It has a throttle bypass valve around the butterfly housing,
with two wires connecting it to somewhere - the computer,
presumably. I have no idea how to set the idle down below the
1800-2000 it currently seems to prefer.
If anyone has a manual which covers adjustments of this system, I
would really appreciate photocopies of the appropriate pages - or
scans. I'd be more than happy to pay costs.
I also whined about the poor instructions for replacing the rear
brake pads. Here's what I said about the subject in an email this
morning to my only Peugot Pal - the DPO of my car Pierre Peugot:
There are two Jetronic systems. Appears they use ONE injector, which
is in the airflow through a sensing venturi-like "plate" which moves
with airflow volume. I gather Its movement is electronically sensed
to signal the computer to make variations in fuel delivery to this
single injector. Kind of an electronic carburetor. I guess it's what
they came up with between wine breaks. Or maybe during. Or shortly after.
Meanwhile, the Scotch drinkers came up with timed-port
injection. Fuel is distributed through a pump with an output line
for each port - much like an injector pump for a diesel. An injector
located just an inch or so from the valve lets a squirt go during the
duration of the intake valve opening. How long a squirt is
determined by the computer, which is reading the news from various
sensors about engine temperature, exhaust composition, rpm, and
throttle opening - as does the Jetronic computer, one assumes.
The end effect is the same, but the little pictures and dwgs that
show the screws to tweak to adjust idle speed and rpm and such are
rather different. For example, the port injector system also
utilizes a throttle butterfly bypass valve to adjust idle speed. I
imagine it's electronically controlled by the injector. I have
located the valve, but have no idea how to ask the computer to turn
it down from the 1800-2000 at which it often sits. There is not
apparent external adjustment, just a pair of wires connected to it.
So, as you see, there are 3 known possible "fuel injection" systems
so far. There are two Jetronic systems covered in my useless manual
- the K-Jetronic and the other one is called I think just plain
Jetronic. they both have the air filter on the right side of the
engine; Pierre's is tucked down on the left.
I finally puzzled out the disk brake adjuster system so I could get
the new pads in the rear. Book says to turn the piston 45 degrees
ccw, push piston home, then turn it back cw 45 degrees, and pop in
the pads. Yeah, right. What it should have said is pop in outer
pad, then find the combination for the piston by turning it about 45
degrees either direction - there are 4 possible positions in which it
will move into the other piston, but it's gotta be right within a
degree or so. Keep trying, moving it just a bit at a time, until you
find it lets go and slides in there. It will FEEL like you hit it
the first time if you didn't plug up the outer hole with a fresh pad,
as the whole caliper will slide back with the still-locked
-together piston pair. But true inter-piston sliding will happen if
the outer pad is there to prevent the caliper from sliding and giving
you the false reading. Then, once the piston actually DOES move into
the other one, you turn it about 45 degrees in either direction to
lock 'em up again - opposite to what you just did is the most
logical. More or less than 45 from the movement position will still
work, but exact 45 will mean that next time it'll be more likely that
45 will work to open the movement possibities up again.
Big difference. Took me about 5 hours to figure out the combination,
after which I did the first one (that worked!) in about 5 minutes,
and the other in another 5. I'm sure glad I wasn't paying Sam or Abe
or some other local "AST" to figure it out!
"Now you have all the information I have"
Recommended format for your email subject lines:
Model # [Model Letters] Year Subject
Examples:
505 88 V6 Mileage
405 Mi16 89 Ignition Coil source?
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Received on Wed May 24 17:49:00 2006
