Re: [Peugeot-L] Getting a few things figured out

From: Pug NZ <pug-yahoo2_at_azorah.co.nz>
Date: 05/25/06

Hi Pete,
As others have noted, we need some more info about your car to be able to help you further.

The 505 gas/petrol cars had six fuel injected variants that I am aware of.

K-Jetronic on the ZEJK, 1995cc OHC engine
K-Jetronic on the ZDJK, 2165cc OHC engine
K-Jetronic on the XN6, 1971cc engine

LU-2-Jetronic on the ZDJL 2165cc OHC engine LH2.2 Jetronic on the ZN3J 2849cc V6 engine L-Jetronic on the N9TE Turbo (not sure if the variants like the N9TEA etc have a different system)

Which engine do you have, the turbo?
Regards,
Kevin

Pete Snidal wrote:

>Shortly after joining this list, I came across a few problems with my
>505 that didn't seem to be from the same planet as the ones they
>wrote about in the Haynes manual (which I obtained at great expense
>and with a similar good deal of trouble from the only source I could
>find on the web - in the UK. Dam thing ended up costing over
>$80.00, for a disappointingly tacky newsprint book from as mentioned
>before, some other planet.)
>
>It covers two fuel injection systems. Both Jetronic, neither mine.
>Mine has the air filter on the left side of the engine, rather than
>with a crossover induction pipe to a right-side location as shown in
>the pulp fiction manual I have. Mine also has a distribution pump
>with 4 output lines going to what I presume are four port injectors
>located at the point at which the induction manifold connects to the
>head. It has a throttle bypass valve around the butterfly housing,
>with two wires connecting it to somewhere - the computer,
>presumably. I have no idea how to set the idle down below the
>1800-2000 it currently seems to prefer.
>
>If anyone has a manual which covers adjustments of this system, I
>would really appreciate photocopies of the appropriate pages - or
>scans. I'd be more than happy to pay costs.
>
>I also whined about the poor instructions for replacing the rear
>brake pads. Here's what I said about the subject in an email this
>morning to my only Peugot Pal - the DPO of my car Pierre Peugot:
>
>-----------
>
>There are two Jetronic systems. Appears they use ONE injector, which
>is in the airflow through a sensing venturi-like "plate" which moves
>with airflow volume. I gather Its movement is electronically sensed
>to signal the computer to make variations in fuel delivery to this
>single injector. Kind of an electronic carburetor. I guess it's what
>they came up with between wine breaks. Or maybe during. Or shortly after.
>
>Meanwhile, the Scotch drinkers came up with timed-port
>injection. Fuel is distributed through a pump with an output line
>for each port - much like an injector pump for a diesel. An injector
>located just an inch or so from the valve lets a squirt go during the
>duration of the intake valve opening. How long a squirt is
>determined by the computer, which is reading the news from various
>sensors about engine temperature, exhaust composition, rpm, and
>throttle opening - as does the Jetronic computer, one assumes.
>
>The end effect is the same, but the little pictures and dwgs that
>show the screws to tweak to adjust idle speed and rpm and such are
>rather different. For example, the port injector system also
>utilizes a throttle butterfly bypass valve to adjust idle speed. I
>imagine it's electronically controlled by the injector. I have
>located the valve, but have no idea how to ask the computer to turn
>it down from the 1800-2000 at which it often sits. There is not
>apparent external adjustment, just a pair of wires connected to it.
>
>So, as you see, there are 3 known possible "fuel injection" systems
>so far. There are two Jetronic systems covered in my useless manual
>- the K-Jetronic and the other one is called I think just plain
>Jetronic. they both have the air filter on the right side of the
>engine; Pierre's is tucked down on the left.
>
>I finally puzzled out the disk brake adjuster system so I could get
>the new pads in the rear. Book says to turn the piston 45 degrees
>ccw, push piston home, then turn it back cw 45 degrees, and pop in
>the pads. Yeah, right. What it should have said is pop in outer
>pad, then find the combination for the piston by turning it about 45
>degrees either direction - there are 4 possible positions in which it
>will move into the other piston, but it's gotta be right within a
>degree or so. Keep trying, moving it just a bit at a time, until you
>find it lets go and slides in there. It will FEEL like you hit it
>the first time if you didn't plug up the outer hole with a fresh pad,
>as the whole caliper will slide back with the still-locked
>-together piston pair. But true inter-piston sliding will happen if
>the outer pad is there to prevent the caliper from sliding and giving
>you the false reading. Then, once the piston actually DOES move into
>the other one, you turn it about 45 degrees in either direction to
>lock 'em up again - opposite to what you just did is the most
>logical. More or less than 45 from the movement position will still
>work, but exact 45 will mean that next time it'll be more likely that
>45 will work to open the movement possibities up again.
>
>Big difference. Took me about 5 hours to figure out the combination,
>after which I did the first one (that worked!) in about 5 minutes,
>and the other in another 5. I'm sure glad I wasn't paying Sam or Abe
>or some other local "AST" to figure it out!
>
>---------
>
>"Now you have all the information I have"
> - (Baba Ram Dass, 1969)
>
>
>
>
>
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