> I agree with a lot of what you've said, but I think moderation might be
> the
> key - else your project will consume the car!
Yup, I agree. As with many projects, you have to set well defined goals
before you start work.
> I don't know of another wiring system (of the day) that actually numbered
> the wires and that corresponded to the wiring diagram. I've never NOT
> been
> able to troublshoot a system - but where they failed (and badly) was in
> there choice of connectors and crappy grounds. I crack open my 1987
> Subaru
> wiring connectors and the rubber sealed molex connectors reveal NEW
> looking
> wiring contacts. Peugeot's are just unsealed crap that break apart 9
> times
> out of 10. Good thing though is that 99% of the issues are due to grounds
> and the connectors - the wiring itself has never given me an issue.
The numbered wires are nice, but there is no color reference. To make
matters worse, there is no numeric index. And lastly, the numbers can be
rubbed off. Unsealed AMP connectors is a bad joke.
> What I would do is start with rewiring the power distribution box, but I
> wouldn't really worry about the harness itself - just focus on making the
> connections and the connectors up to snuff. Stereo installers have some
> REALLY nice distribution blocks that just might be the ticket - or grab an
> OEM block out of a Toyota or Subaru and use it.
Well, there is just no room what-so-ever for an additional block - let alone
a fused block - with all the factory components. The Yota blocks are great,
fused and about 6"x2"x2". To continue with the factory tradition of running
hot and ground wires in the same harness to the fuse block is a disaster
waiting to happen. Two goals drive this project for me.
- Add fused primary power distribution
- Separate power from ground wires from same harness
Freeing up the washer reservoir will allow for all the space for power
distribution I could want. I'll have to rebuild the harness that goes from
the current Anderson power pole (next to the battery) to the fuse box. I'll
try to limit it to that!
> As for the washer - maybe down in Seattle a gallon and a half isn't
> usefull
> - but up here in Canada, in the nasty slushy winter, that gallon and a
> half
> of -45 teflon antifreeze is a GODSEND! Put a better pump in it, upgrade
> the
> lines with better sprayers and I'd call it done. Hell - it's a great
> resevoir for external intercooler cooling, or if you get adventurous you
> can
> tap into it for water injection... :)
I'm wondering how much fluid could be stored in the windshield cowl. I bet
a lot. I don't want to obstruct fresh air intake, but ideally I'd like to
get a gallon. A 1/2 gallon at least.
> I'd rather keep the washer system and relocate the battery to the trunk.
> Put in a race kill switch for the main power source on the cable on it's
> way
> to the engine, and you have the ultimate power protection - and better
> weight distribution.
I thought about battery relocation, but I'm leaning against it. One, it
intrudes on the trunk space. Two, I don't like battery and fuel storage in
the same space. I also remember going into the rockers for the stereo
wiring I did and there didn't appear to be as much space as with other cars
I've worked on. Jim Lill relocated his battery to the trunk but didn't
publicly document it.
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Received on Tue Jun 6 00:22:56 2006
