Tony, don't assume the battery and cables are fine because the
starter motor spins under no load--that doesn't take much voltage or
current. Put a charger on it! Or jump it with another car,
preferably running. Or, check the standing voltage -- It should be at
least 12.5v, and then check the voltage drop when you turn on the
high beams, heater fan, radio full blast, and spin the starter motor
-- it should not drop more than one or two volts.
Pulling the starter is a lot of work. Just make sure it's not the
battery before you do it!
Brian Holm
At 07:49 PM 6/24/2006, Tony O wrote:
>Thanks again guys.
>
>This afternoon I jumped the the small connector on the starter (the one the
>ignition switch trips). I did this by connecting directly to the battery.
>Unfortunately, I could hear a click in the solenoid but the starter motor
>did not turn over. I immediatley jumped the motor from battery and it
>turned over, so I am left to believe it's the solenoid. Since the motor
>spins when jumped directly to battery, I think the battery is fine. This is
>a nice sealed battery with over 900 CA. Anyhow, I guess my next step is to
>pull the starter and do some bench testing. I may actually pull the starter
>off the 85 505TD that has been sitting for almost a year now (it won't miss
>it) and then I will test the starter at a later date.
>
>Have a great weekend and thanks for all your advice.
>-Tony O
>
>On 6/24/06, Jim Bartley
><<mailto:pei505turbo%40yahoo.ca>pei505turbo@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> >
> > It sounds to me, if the glow light comes on and goes off for the right
> > period, and the solenoid moves, that everything is working more
> or less, but
> > there isn't enough juice going through the circuit to turn over the engine.
> > A diesel is high compression compared to a gas engine, and it
> takes a lot of
> > concentrated CCA to make it spin. Exactly the same thing a week
> ago with the
> > battery down on my 86 505TD wagon after it blew the alternator belt, and I
> > had to start it and drive it for about an hour to get where I had
> to go with
> > it.
> >
> > After an hour driving and then shut down, it would not re-start, and would
> > not even turn over with a cable boost battery to battery (although the glow
> > plug/solenoid action was there). Battery to starter directly
> finally worked.
> > That makes me think that there are some corrosion issues at spots in the
> > electrical circuits on my car. Likely, check/clean battery connections,
> > recharge battery a bit, consider cleaning the various cables where joining
> > starter etc, and of course, the sage advice offered by Brian Holm and Bob
> > Bruce below.
> >
> > cheers!
> > Jim Bartley on PEI
> > 86 505 S Turbodiesel automatic wagon
> > 87 505 Turbo gas automatic sedan
> > ==between the two of them, one entirely perfectly working car==
> >
> >
> > @gmail.com> wrote:
> > Thanks Brian. I may try this but I'm beggining to think that my starter
> > solenoid may be the culprit. Bob Bruce was kind enough to send me diagram
> > of starter relay configuration and this afternoon, I installed one. The
> > first time I went to start the car, the glow plug light came on for the
> > full
> > period (first time in a long time) and I thought everything would be cool,
> > but alas when I turned the key to the start position, could just hear the
> > click of relay and solenoid but the starter motor would not turn. Didn't
> > have any more time to diagnos further as I was running late. I will likely
> > try and clean up grounds, etc. tomorrow and see if that doesn't remedy the
> > situation. Brian, would a starter pushbutton be much different than adding
> > a starter relay?
> > I mean, if solenoid is bad (though I can feel it click) it won't help
> > right? Is there a way to test the solenoid or motor electrically using
> > voltmeter? (remember motor turns when jumped directly to battery).
> >
> > thanks again to everyone for their suggestions.
> > -Tony
> >
> > *****
> >
> > Tony, Losses through the ignition switch circuit should not exceed
> > one volt. You can take the electrical section off the back of the
> > ignition switch and clean it, or replace the switch, which might
> > help, but why not just install a starter pushbutton? You just need
> > to be sure you are not in gear when pushing the button.
> >
> > Brian Holm
> >
> > At 11:13 PM 6/22/2006, Tony O wrote:
> > >Hey all,
> > >
> > >been a while since I posted, mainly because I haven't been driving
> > >either of my peugeots : (
> > >
> > >With the addition of a biodiesel station here in town, I've been
> > >inspired once again to get one of these up and running. My problem is
> > >a no start problem. I've done a bit of research, peered over the
> > >electric manual (albeit for the 85 model) and done a bit of testing
> > >with a multimeter. I was wondering if someone could possibly explain
> > >in detail but in layman's terms what happens when you turn the switch.
> > >
> > >I suspect my ignition switch may be faulty, but I am not sure how to
> > >further test it. A close inspection of it, shows 4 larger wires
> > >leading to harness and two thin black wires, not sure where those
> > >lead. I'd like to know which wires I should test and what I should be
> > >looking for.
> > >
> > >Here is what I know. When I turn the ignition switch to run, the glow
> > >plug light does NOT stay on. It comes on momentarily (one sec or
> > >less) and then turns off. I can hear the accesory relay and the glow
> > >plug relay click. I decided that I would test the glow plug relay and
> > >find that it does power on for about 12 secs., however I am unsure if
> > >the glow plugs are recieving current. (I will check this tomorrow).
> > >When I turn the key to the start position, I can hear and feel the
> > >starter solenoid click as well, however the starter motor does not
> > >turn over at all. I have jumped the starter motor by connecting
> > >directly to the battery and it does turnover. I have also tested the
> > >voltage at the small wire/terminal on the starter solenoid ( I assume
> > >this comes from the ignition switch?) and it reads a little less than
> > >6 volts. Once again, I am guessing that it should recieve 12V? This
> > >is part of the reason I think it's my ignition switch. Can anyone
> > >verify my findings?
> >
Brian Holm, Parts for Peugeots
at Peugeot Holm, since 1969
2120 Maple Hill
Plainfield, VT, 05667
802-454-7132, fax -1310
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Received on Sat Jun 24 18:28:03 2006
