Kenneth,
I wish I remembered more, but I quit working on Peugeots
years ago; and began to specialize in BMW and
Honda besides the few Alfa's here and there although
I was primarily an Alfa tech. If the car has all
those problems and you are sure that head gasket is
in correctly, then there is a pretty good solution
that works surprisingly well sealing any kind of
leak-K&W block sealer. The process is a little more
involved than other sealers; but if the gaps are not
too large for it to work, then it will last forever
unless it is overheated again or some other catastrophe
happens. We used to alter the procedure somewhat,
but they have changed the instructions on the
can to conform pretty much the way we did it. If you
decide to use it and have any questions, Email me
and I'll give you any advice you need.
The dye you use doesn't hurt the system, and it's a
small amount; so you can leave it in the system. The
same type of dye that's compatible with R-12 or
R-134
is left in the system as it will be in there for any
future leaks, so the same applies to cooling
systems.
We bought the kits from our tool men, but future
purchases of the dye we got from our local parts
suppliers; so I think you can get everything from
local parts sources. They make the dye for almost
any system and it's hard to beat for finding leaks,
especially A/C systems with R-134A. Be sure to get
an ultra-violet light with decent brightness, or
you'll need to look at night; but that can get
costly. You may need to look at discount places like
Harbour Freight or J.C.Whitney(are they still in
bus-
iness?).
As for the rear seal, I can't remember if you had a
sedan or wagon; but as you know, Peugeot tells you
to remove the engine because of the torque tube.
How-
ever, we had a "snipe" for that- drop the rear end
by loosening the bolts that hold it to the chassis
and let it just hang down; and remove the four bolts
that hold the torque tube to the back of the transmission,
then with your fingers you can pull the
driveshaft backwards and out of the transmission.
Now you can remove the transmission as you can in
"normal" cars, but it's still quite a job.
By the way, the chemical and bulb for determining
the presense of exhaust gas in the coolant is different
from the flourescent dye which was to be put
in the oil or coolant to check for the leak at the
back of the head.
As far as the pan gasket goes, I never had to do one
of those as the cars were still pretty new when I
was working on them; but I would think you could
do it without great difficulty even if you had to
drop the crossmember as you usually can let them
down a bit without totally removing them. Maybe
the flourescent dye will show an easier place to
fix that the oil is coming from.
I think I've answered all your concerns; but if I've
forgotten anything, please feel free to contact me.
If I'm stumped, I can call my ex-father-in-law who
was the dealer I worked for and is an excellent
Peugeot tech.
Again, good luck!
Gary Freeman
- kenneth parker <elkeni@mac.com> wrote:
> Gary,
> Thanks for the thoughtful post. When I did the job
> I used short bolts
> with nice thick flat washers to make sure that the
> sleeves were not
> disturbed at all. I cleaned the intake side of the
> head and then
> repositioned the bolts and did the exhaust side. I
> didn't spend too
> long taking straight edge measurements, but I think
> I remember the
> liner protrusion being within specs.
> If there is coolant leaking into the oil, or vice
> versa, I can't
> figure out where the antifreeze smell would be
> coming from. The oil
> does not look milky. I assume that since I can
> smell the cooking
> coolant that it must be leaking somewhere onto the
> exhaust and burning
> off immediately.
> With regards to the florescent dye that you
> mention, is it something
> that you add to the coolant and forget or do I have
> to drain the system
> after using it? Also, where can I buy the dye and
> bulb?
> The worst part about this whole, seemingly endless,
> job is that it is
> a, kind of, crappy 505. The seats are ragged, the
> headliner is a mess,
> the windshield has a crack and there is either a
> rear main seal leak
> (lateral rubber strips) or a pan gasket leak that
> keeps the underside
> glistening. There is also the usual leak at the
> rear of the
> transmission from either the rear transmission seal
> or another rearward
> trans gasket.
> Is it possible to change the rear seal and pan
> gasket without either
> pulling the motor or having to lower the cross
> member? I assume that
> in order to lower the cross member that the lines to
> the pinion valve
> and ram need to be removed. I think I would rather
> pull the motor than
> have to remove the ram and its lines. Regardless,
> is it possible to do
> the seal/pan gasket job by lowering the cross member
> or do I have to
> pull the engine to do it?
> Thanks,
> Ken
> On Jul 10, 2005, at 9:20 AM, gary freeman wrote:
>
> > If I remember correctly, the head gasket for
> that
> > engine was almost perfectly symetrical; and
> there-
> > fore was quite easy to put on upside down. But,
> that
> > was a disaster because one hole was different
> and
> > would block a water passage. I've seen that give
> > professional Peugeot techs big headaches.
> There's a
> > kit you can buy that puts a chemical in the
> coolant
> > system and with an included glass bulb that sits
> in
> > the radiator neck, it turns a certain color if
> there
> > is exhaust gas in the system. The best way is to
> go
> > somewhere that has an exhaust gas analyser
> because
> > they can "sniff" the tailpipe, the radiator neck
> > (don't put the "sniffer" in the coolant), or
> > anywhere
> > else; and immediately detect the tiniest amount
> of
> > ehaust gas. A better way to check that
> discoloration
> > at the back of the head is to put flourescent
> dye
> > for
> > coolant in the cooling system, and then put an
> > ultra-
> > violet light on it and you will see bright
> yellow
> > wherever coolant is leaking. Another thing to
> con-
> > sider is whether you're leaking coolant into the
> > oil,
> > or if you're leaking oil into the coolant
> because
> > a bad headgasket doesn't always mean a leak to
> > exhaust. And if you're leaking coolant into the
> oil,
> >
> > there's a good possibility you have a leak at
> the
> > gasket for the cylinder liner as this is a wet
> > sleeve
> > engine with paper gaskets; and even if that
> wasn't
> > your original problem, that could have been
> easily
> > been disrupted during the head gasket job.
> Usually
> > if there's a head gasket problem not involving
> > exhaust gas getting in the coolant, then you'll
> > usually get oil in the coolant as oil pressure
> is
> > significantly higher than coolant pressure.
> >
> > I hope this gives you some ideas, but the XN6
> engine
> > is usually very tough and isn't prone to head
> gasket
> > problems. BMW's also blow head gaskets when
> they're
> > overheated and you'll have regular timing belt
> > changes. And the Peugeot suspension is much
> tougher
> > and the comfort is much better.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Gary Freeman
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- kenneth parker <elkeni@mac.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Some months ago billows of white smoke caused me
> to
> >> pressurize my
> >> cooling system (Stant ST-255) and discover a lot
> of
> >> coolant leaking
> >> into cylinder #2. The head was removed and the
> head
> >> gasket was
> >> carefully scrutinized for any holes/defects, etc.
> >> Nothing apparent was
> >> found. I had the head pressure tested and a
> crack
> >> -I believe it was
> >> internal, not in a firing chamber- was found. I
> >> bought a used head,
> >> with enough meat on it, that passed the pressure
> >> test and had it
> >> resurfaced and had the valves and seats done.
> >> I did a surgical reassembly, though I used a
> >> Snap-on click stop wrench
> >> for torquing the head instead of the manual
> >> recommended torque angle
> >> gauge. The head bolts were wire brushed prior to
> >> assembly and their
> >> respective holes in the block were chased (not
> >> chaste) and, again,
> >> surgically cleaned out with compressed air. The
> >> bolts were torqued at
> >> 60 ft. lbs., and the head re-torqued at 600
> miles.
> >> For some days everything seemed problem free and
> >> then I began to
> >> detect the smell of cooked antifreeze. I looked
> >> and looked but could
> >> not find an apparent leak, though I needed to add
> .5
> >> quart of coolant
> >> to the system every couple of days. No smoke
> from
> >> the tail pipe, but
> >> the smell was there. I did not detect the smell
> at
> >> the tail pipe, but
> >> in the engine compartment.
> >> A Peugeot guy in Alameda, Sam from SK Auto, put
> it
> >> up in the air and
> >> looked at the rear of the head (by the manifold
> down
> >> pipe). He noticed
> >> some discoloration on the block just below the
> rear
> >> of the head and
> >> said that he thought it was a bad head gasket.
> He
> >> told me to clean it
> >> off (the block under the head), and spray paint
> it
> >> and then run it and
> >> look at it again. Sam told me that it was
> probably
>
=== message truncated ===
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Received on Sun Jul 10 22:53:35 2005
