If it's burning that much coolant, which I didn't
think it was, you can just look at the spark plugs
when you pull them; and the ones from any cylinder
that's burning coolant will be very clean with no
carbon build-up.
Gary Freeman
- James Rabin <rabin505@sasktel.net> wrote:
> One thing you might try doing it pressurizing the
> cooling system with the spark plugs out. Carefully
> turn the engine over and you might be able to hear
> the air coming out one of the plug holes at the
> right crank position (air will come out when
> turning it over anyway - but you might hear a
> notable hiss or burble). Taking the exhaust
> manifold off would also give you a clear indication
> if it's being burned out the exhaust manifold. (It
> steams the port and looks pristine - no carbon build
> up) Either/both should eliminate if it's burning
> it. If it's burning a lot of antifreeze - then the
> tail pipe itself should give it away with white
> deposits or a very clean tail pipe. Antifreeze also
> burns white with a sweet smell - so you might want
> to park yourself behind the car and have some one
> rev it. (WOT to 4500, off to idle, repeat)
>
> I'd also take efforts to clean the exterior of the
> engine REALLY well to make sure all residue from the
> recent work is washed off. Take lots of time
> protecting all the electrical bits if using a
> pressure washer - I use a good cleaner (Grease-off
> or some such from the makers of spray 9 works
> awesome) and just low pressure garden hose with an
> old paint brush works good. I still wrap up the
> electrical bits just in case as well.
>
> Since you admit the car is noticeably crappy - you
> might look at finding a cheap replacement and then
> use this one as the parts car... It's one of the
> benefits of Peugeot ownership - beautiful cars in
> amazing shape can be had for a pittance...
>
> I can understand you fixing this one though - I'm
> terrible for spending too much $$$ on cars when I
> fix them - it gets personal and I feel challenged to
> the point that I have to fix them... (almost $5000
> into a rusty 90' Subaru Legacy AWD is the latest.
> It now runs and drives VERY well - embarasses newer
> cars in ride and handling - but it looks like a beat
> up old car... Happily - it runs and drives better
> than any car I could ever buy for the same money
> invested. We just won't talk about the labour costs
> would have been however... :)
>
> Hope that helps narrow it down...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: kenneth parker <elkeni@mac.com>
> Date: Sunday, July 10, 2005 9:47 pm
> Subject: Re: [Peugeot-L] XN6 cooked antifreeze smell
>
> > Gary,
> > Thanks for the thoughtful post. When I did the
> job I used short
> > bolts
> > with nice thick flat washers to make sure that the
> sleeves were
> > not
> > disturbed at all. I cleaned the intake side of
> the head and then
> > repositioned the bolts and did the exhaust side.
> I didn't spend
> > too
> > long taking straight edge measurements, but I
> think I remember the
> > liner protrusion being within specs.
> > If there is coolant leaking into the oil, or vice
> versa, I can't
> > figure out where the antifreeze smell would be
> coming from. The
> > oil
> > does not look milky. I assume that since I can
> smell the cooking
> > coolant that it must be leaking somewhere onto the
> exhaust and
> > burning
> > off immediately.
> > With regards to the florescent dye that you
> mention, is it
> > something
> > that you add to the coolant and forget or do I
> have to drain the
> > system
> > after using it? Also, where can I buy the dye and
> bulb?
> > The worst part about this whole, seemingly
> endless, job is that
> > it is
> > a, kind of, crappy 505. The seats are ragged, the
> headliner is a
> > mess,
> > the windshield has a crack and there is either a
> rear main seal
> > leak
> > (lateral rubber strips) or a pan gasket leak that
> keeps the
> > underside
> > glistening. There is also the usual leak at the
> rear of the
> > transmission from either the rear transmission
> seal or another
> > rearward
> > trans gasket.
> > Is it possible to change the rear seal and pan
> gasket without
> > either
> > pulling the motor or having to lower the cross
> member? I assume
> > that
> > in order to lower the cross member that the lines
> to the pinion
> > valve
> > and ram need to be removed. I think I would
> rather pull the motor
> > than
> > have to remove the ram and its lines. Regardless,
> is it possible
> > to do
> > the seal/pan gasket job by lowering the cross
> member or do I have
> > to
> > pull the engine to do it?
> > Thanks,
> > Ken
> > On Jul 10, 2005, at 9:20 AM, gary freeman wrote:
> >
> > > If I remember correctly, the head gasket for
> that
> > > engine was almost perfectly symetrical; and
> there-
> > > fore was quite easy to put on upside down.
> But, that
> > > was a disaster because one hole was different
> and
> > > would block a water passage. I've seen that
> give
> > > professional Peugeot techs big headaches.
> There's a
> > > kit you can buy that puts a chemical in the
> coolant
> > > system and with an included glass bulb that
> sits in
> > > the radiator neck, it turns a certain color if
> there
> > > is exhaust gas in the system. The best way is
> to go
> > > somewhere that has an exhaust gas analyser
> because
> > > they can "sniff" the tailpipe, the radiator
> neck
> > > (don't put the "sniffer" in the coolant), or
> > > anywhere
> > > else; and immediately detect the tiniest
> amount of
> > > ehaust gas. A better way to check that
> discoloration
> > > at the back of the head is to put flourescent
> dye
> > > for
> > > coolant in the cooling system, and then put an
> > > ultra-
> > > violet light on it and you will see bright
> yellow
> > > wherever coolant is leaking. Another thing to
> con-
> > > sider is whether you're leaking coolant into
> the
> > > oil,
> > > or if you're leaking oil into the coolant
> because
> > > a bad headgasket doesn't always mean a leak to
> > > exhaust. And if you're leaking coolant into
> the oil,
> > >
> > > there's a good possibility you have a leak at
> the
> > > gasket for the cylinder liner as this is a wet
> > > sleeve
> > > engine with paper gaskets; and even if that
> wasn't
> > > your original problem, that could have been
> easily
> > > been disrupted during the head gasket job.
> Usually
> > > if there's a head gasket problem not involving
> > > exhaust gas getting in the coolant, then
> you'll
> > > usually get oil in the coolant as oil pressure
> is
> > > significantly higher than coolant pressure.
> > >
> > > I hope this gives you some ideas, but the XN6
> engine
> > > is usually very tough and isn't prone to head
> gasket
> > > problems. BMW's also blow head gaskets when
> they're
> > > overheated and you'll have regular timing belt
> > > changes. And the Peugeot suspension is much
> tougher
>
=== message truncated ===
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Received on Tue Jul 12 09:25:58 2005
