Dave,
Since this problem occurred only after you had performed
the head job, the first things to look at are
what could have been changed during the work. My
first thoughts are those complicated two pin connectors
with the wire clip around them(they're
callled
Bosch connectors as they're for all the fuel inj.
connections) as on most cars they are color coded
to the connector on the device itself, or the tab
is offset differently so that they can only be connected
to the correct device; but some car companies
don't bother about that and the French are well
known for those lapses. So what I'm saying, is be
sure you have those reconnected to the proper device
as if they're not, those devices(such as the aux air
valve) will not work properly.
Good luck.
Gary Freeman
- pyoung <bf135@scn.org> wrote:
> Dave,
> Is the auxilary air valve wiring working? It could
> be that the valve is
> not being electrically closed when cold but once the
> manifold gets warm
> enough heat induction would keep it shut.
> Do you have the workshop manual for the n9txx
> engines?
>
> Peat
>
>
> On Jul 11, 2005, at 6:12 PM, Dave Towle wrote:
>
> > Hi Mike and anyone else who can help,
> >
> > - PCV hose looks fine.
> > - I checked the air intake boot all around with a
> mirror, couldn't see
> > any problems although its hard to see in the
> folds. I felt around it
> > too.
> > - On the thermostat there's 4 individual sensor
> wires, on these I
> > polished the prong and tightened up the female
> side and used a drop of
> > VW's Stabilant (discussed on this list a year or
> two ago as a great
> > way to improve electrical conections).
> > - There's also 2 fancy connectors held on by a
> wire clip, each with 2
> > small connections inside, all I could do with
> these tiny things was
> > make and break the contact a few times hoping that
> would clean them
> > up. They looked nice and shiny from the beginning
> though.
> > - I assume the air temp sensor is the one in the
> curved part of the
> > inlet, I cleaned this up like the individual
> thermsostat wires above.
> >
> > So I did all this stuff and no change to the cold
> start problem. And
> > by the way I haven't seen this create any light
> flashing codes.
> >
> > It seems this is likely a problem with the ECU
> thinking the engine is
> > warm when it is actually cold, right? Is there
> any easy way to test
> > this by convincing the ECU that the engine is
> cold, like grounding one
> > fo the above wires, or directly connecting 2 wires
> to bypass a sensor?
> >
> > Thanks, Dave Towle
> >
> > --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Aube"
> <maube@i...> wrote:
> >> Check the PCV hose, air intake boot, from AFM to
> turbo, all the
> > electricall
> >> connections around the thermostat housing and air
> temp sensor on
> >> intake
> >> ----- Original Message -----
On
> >> From: "Dave Towle" <davidtowle@m...>
> >> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
> >> Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 1:09 PM
> >> Subject: [Peugeot-L] Re: 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle
> Problem
> >>
> >>
> >>> Hi,
> >>> The throttle body seal appears good, might have
> been just replaced
> >>> (can't remember for sure). To make sure I
> sprayed ether all around
> >>> it
> >>> and the other connections on the manifold and
> got no audible change
> >>> in
> >>> rpm (at idle the whole manifold is under vacuum,
> right? just
> > making sure).
> >>>
> >>> Any other ideas?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Dave Towle
> >>>
> >>> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, <peugeot@m...>
> wrote:
> >>>> Take a look at the throttlebody the seal to see
> if it is sucking
> > air.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> >>>> From: "Dave Towle" <davidtowle@m...>
> >>>> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
> >>>> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 4:19 PM
> >>>> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle
> Problem
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I retorqued the head and reset the valve
> clearances after
> > Mike Aube
> >>>>> did a nice job replacing my car's head (among
> other fixes).
> >>>>> Unfortunately this has given me 2 new
> problems, a)oil leaks (for
> >>>>> which the solution is obvious, try again) and
> b) I lost the
> > cold idle.
> >>>>> Each time I try to start the car, everything
> seems fine at
> > first with
> >>>>> the engine going to normal idle speed, then
> after 4 to 6
> > seconds the
> >>>>> speed starts dropping, and it soon stalls once
> it gets below
> > 500 rpm.
> >>>>> Once the engine is warm all is fine.
> >>>>> Now the only way I could figure out to get
> the valve cover
> > on and
> >>>>> off was by loosening the white plastic gadget
> on the throttle
> > plate
> >>>>> shaft that cradles the throttle wire. When I
> was done it
> > seemed to
> >>>>> only pop into one position so I don't see how
> I could have
> > changed its
> >>>>> alignment or anything, but I'm not 100% sure.
> I also had to
> > remove
> >>>>> one of the 2 screws for the bracket that holds
> the throttle
> > cable in
> >>>>> alignment with the white gadget.
> >>>>> Any suggestions on what a neophyte can do to
> trace this
> > problem out?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> TIA,
> >>>>> Dave Towle
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
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Received on Tue Jul 12 09:54:45 2005
