Gary,
Its been a while since I did a lower end on a Peugeot and I remember
the only rear seal as being those two rubber strips that went on either
side of the rear main bearing cap (the cap that housed the end play
thrust washers). They were little rubber strips that had an end that
fit over some sort of guide pins on the cap and then were supposed to
be oiled and installed with shimstock that would keep them from
stretching on installation.
I do not remember any sort of around-the-crank (like the 60's beetles)
seal that could only be installed with the rear of the engine fully
exposed.
I have only done lower ends on 404's and 504's, so for all I know, the
505 is different.
Ken
On Jul 12, 2005, at 9:39 AM, gary freeman wrote:
> , Kenneth,
>
> I was referring to the rear engine main seal which
> you can access with the transmission removed. Some
> people think that's easier than removing the engine
> as you disturb less things and don't need an engine
> hoist. Either way, it's a major project!
>
> You should be able to find the K&W block sealer at
> most auto parts stores-it used to come in a copper
> colored can, but I haven't bought any in a few
> years.
> When you buy it, read the directions; and then email
> me or the club post because you will have some ques-
> tions which I'll be glad to answer.
>
> Again, good luck, as with car repairs, sometimes
> luck is more important than skill.
>
>
> Gary Freeman
>
>
>
> --- kenneth parker <elkeni@mac.com> wrote:
>
>> Gary,
>> I would love to know about the block sealant that
>> you mention. I
>> really dread having to pull this head again and,
>> since the leak seems
>> minimal (I lose a cup or two in four or five days of
>> running) maybe
>> this K&W will do the trick.
>> With regard to the rear seal, I am referring to the
>> engine seal, not
>> the rear trans seal. On the 404 and 504's that I
>> have worked on the
>> seal is comprised of two rubber strips that go into
>> a groove on either
>> side of the rear main bearing seal.
>> Anyhow, thanks again for the input. Please let me
>> know where I can
>> locate the K&W sealant.
>> Thanks,
>> Ken
>> On Jul 10, 2005, at 10:51 PM, gary freeman wrote:
>>
>>> Kenneth,
>>>
>>> I wish I remembered more, but I quit working on
>> Peu-
>>> geots years ago; and began to specialize in BMW
>> and
>>> Honda besides the few Alfa's here and there
>> although
>>> I was primarily an Alfa tech. If the car has all
>>> those problems and you are sure that head gasket
>> is
>>> in correctly, then there is a pretty good
>> solution
>>> that works surprisingly well sealing any kind of
>>> leak-K&W block sealer. The process is a little
>> more
>>> involved than other sealers; but if the gaps are
>> not
>>> too large for it to work, then it will last
>> forever
>>> unless it is overheated again or some other
>> catas-
>>> trophe happens. We used to alter the procedure
>> some-
>>> what, but they have changed the instructions on
>> the
>>> can to conform pretty much the way we did it. If
>> you
>>> decide to use it and have any questions, Email
>> me
>>> and I'll give you any advice you need.
>>>
>>> The dye you use doesn't hurt the system, and
>> it's a
>>> small amount; so you can leave it in the system.
>> The
>>> same type of dye that's compatible with R-12 or
>>> R-134
>>> is left in the system as it will be in there for
>> any
>>>
>>> future leaks, so the same applies to cooling
>>> systems.
>>> We bought the kits from our tool men, but future
>>> purchases of the dye we got from our local parts
>>> suppliers; so I think you can get everything
>> from
>>> local parts sources. They make the dye for
>> almost
>>> any system and it's hard to beat for finding
>> leaks,
>>> especially A/C systems with R-134A. Be sure to
>> get
>>> an ultra-violet light with decent brightness, or
>>> you'll need to look at night; but that can get
>>> costly. You may need to look at discount places
>> like
>>> Harbour Freight or J.C.Whitney(are they still in
>>> bus-
>>> iness?).
>>>
>>> As for the rear seal, I can't remember if you
>> had a
>>> sedan or wagon; but as you know, Peugeot tells
>> you
>>> to remove the engine because of the torque tube.
>>> How-
>>> ever, we had a "snipe" for that- drop the rear
>> end
>>> by loosening the bolts that hold it to the
>> chassis
>>> and let it just hang down; and remove the four
>> bolts
>>> that hold the torque tube to the back of the
>> trans-
>>> mission, then with your fingers you can pull the
>>> driveshaft backwards and out of the
>> transmission.
>>> Now you can remove the transmission as you can
>> in
>>> "normal" cars, but it's still quite a job.
>>>
>>> By the way, the chemical and bulb for
>> determining
>>> the presense of exhaust gas in the coolant is
>> diff-
>>> erent from the flourescent dye which was to be
>> put
>>> in the oil or coolant to check for the leak at
>> the
>>> back of the head.
>>>
>>> As far as the pan gasket goes, I never had to do
>> one
>>> of those as the cars were still pretty new when
>> I
>>> was working on them; but I would think you could
>>> do it without great difficulty even if you had
>> to
>>> drop the crossmember as you usually can let them
>>> down a bit without totally removing them. Maybe
>>> the flourescent dye will show an easier place to
>>> fix that the oil is coming from.
>>>
>>> I think I've answered all your concerns; but if
>> I've
>>> forgotten anything, please feel free to contact
>> me.
>>> If I'm stumped, I can call my ex-father-in-law
>> who
>>> was the dealer I worked for and is an excellent
>>> Peugeot tech.
>>>
>>> Again, good luck!
>>>
>>> Gary Freeman
>>>
>>>
>>> --- kenneth parker <elkeni@mac.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Gary,
>>>> Thanks for the thoughtful post. When I did the
>> job
>>>> I used short bolts
>>>> with nice thick flat washers to make sure that
>> the
>>>> sleeves were not
>>>> disturbed at all. I cleaned the intake side of
>> the
>>>> head and then
>>>> repositioned the bolts and did the exhaust side.
>> I
>>>> didn't spend too
>>>> long taking straight edge measurements, but I
>> think
>>>> I remember the
>>>> liner protrusion being within specs.
>>>> If there is coolant leaking into the oil, or
>> vice
>>>> versa, I can't
>>>> figure out where the antifreeze smell would be
>>>> coming from. The oil
>>>> does not look milky. I assume that since I can
>>>> smell the cooking
>>>> coolant that it must be leaking somewhere onto
>> the
>>>> exhaust and burning
>>>> off immediately.
>>>> With regards to the florescent dye that you
>>>> mention, is it something
>>>> that you add to the coolant and forget or do I
>> have
>>>> to drain the system
>>>> after using it? Also, where can I buy the dye
>> and
>>>> bulb?
>>>> The worst part about this whole, seemingly
>> endless,
>>>> job is that it is
>>>> a, kind of, crappy 505. The seats are ragged,
>> the
>>>> headliner is a mess,
>>>> the windshield has a crack and there is either a
>>>> rear main seal leak
>>>> (lateral rubber strips) or a pan gasket leak that
>>>> keeps the underside
>>>> glistening. There is also the usual leak at the
>>>> rear of the
>>>> transmission from either the rear transmission
>> seal
>>>> or another rearward
>>>> trans gasket.
>>>> Is it possible to change the rear seal and pan
>>>> gasket without either
>>>> pulling the motor or having to lower the cross
>>>> member? I assume that
>>>> in order to lower the cross member that the lines
>> to
>>>> the pinion valve
>>
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Sell on Yahoo! Auctions – no fees. Bid on great items.
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
Recommended format for your email subject lines:
Model # [Model Letters] Year Subject
Examples:
505 88 V6 Mileage
405 Mi16 89 Ignition Coil source?
To unsubscribe from this list send a blank email message to PEUGEOT-L-UNSUBSCRIBE@EGROUPS.COM
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/peugeot-L/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
peugeot-L-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Received on Tue Jul 12 14:24:23 2005
