[Peugeot-L] Re: 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle Problem

From: Dave Towle <davidtowle_at_mail.com>
Date: 07/12/05


Hi Gary,

Sounds like you misunderstood my post, the car ran fine after the head replacement, I only got this problem after retorqueing and adjusting the valves. So I think they must have been reattached correctly after the head replacement, and when I took off the valve cover I didn't detach anything electrical, so they should be OK. In checking the connections per Mike A's instructions yesterday I disconnected each joint one at a time so I couldn't have mixed them up.

Thanks, Dave Towle

  • In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, gary freeman <riven2649@y...> wrote:
    > Dave,
    >
    > Since this problem occurred only after you had per-
    > formed the head job, the first things to look at are
    > what could have been changed during the work. My
    > first thoughts are those complicated two pin conn-
    > ectors with the wire clip around them(they're
    > callled
    > Bosch connectors as they're for all the fuel inj.
    > connections) as on most cars they are color coded
    > to the connector on the device itself, or the tab
    > is offset differently so that they can only be con-
    > nected to the correct device; but some car companies
    > don't bother about that and the French are well
    > known for those lapses. So what I'm saying, is be
    > sure you have those reconnected to the proper device
    > as if they're not, those devices(such as the aux air
    > valve) will not work properly.
    >
    > Good luck.
    >
    > Gary Freeman
    >
    > --- pyoung <bf135@s...> wrote:
    >
    > > Dave,
    > > Is the auxilary air valve wiring working? It could
    > > be that the valve is
    > > not being electrically closed when cold but once the
    > > manifold gets warm
    > > enough heat induction would keep it shut.
    > > Do you have the workshop manual for the n9txx
    > > engines?
    > >
    > > Peat
    > >
    > >
    > > On Jul 11, 2005, at 6:12 PM, Dave Towle wrote:
    > >
    > > > Hi Mike and anyone else who can help,
    > > >
    > > > - PCV hose looks fine.
    > > > - I checked the air intake boot all around with a
    > > mirror, couldn't see
    > > > any problems although its hard to see in the
    > > folds. I felt around it
    > > > too.
    > > > - On the thermostat there's 4 individual sensor
    > > wires, on these I
    > > > polished the prong and tightened up the female
    > > side and used a drop of
    > > > VW's Stabilant (discussed on this list a year or
    > > two ago as a great
    > > > way to improve electrical conections).
    > > > - There's also 2 fancy connectors held on by a
    > > wire clip, each with 2
    > > > small connections inside, all I could do with
    > > these tiny things was
    > > > make and break the contact a few times hoping that
    > > would clean them
    > > > up. They looked nice and shiny from the beginning
    > > though.
    > > > - I assume the air temp sensor is the one in the
    > > curved part of the
    > > > inlet, I cleaned this up like the individual
    > > thermsostat wires above.
    > > >
    > > > So I did all this stuff and no change to the cold
    > > start problem. And
    > > > by the way I haven't seen this create any light
    > > flashing codes.
    > > >
    > > > It seems this is likely a problem with the ECU
    > > thinking the engine is
    > > > warm when it is actually cold, right? Is there
    > > any easy way to test
    > > > this by convincing the ECU that the engine is
    > > cold, like grounding one
    > > > fo the above wires, or directly connecting 2 wires
    > > to bypass a sensor?
    > > >
    > > > Thanks, Dave Towle
    > > >
    > > > --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Aube"
    > > <maube@i...> wrote:
    > > >> Check the PCV hose, air intake boot, from AFM to
    > > turbo, all the
    > > > electricall
    > > >> connections around the thermostat housing and air
    > > temp sensor on
    > > >> intake
    > > >> ----- Original Message ----- On
    > > >> From: "Dave Towle" <davidtowle@m...>
    > > >> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
    > > >> Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 1:09 PM
    > > >> Subject: [Peugeot-L] Re: 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle
    > > Problem
    > > >>
    > > >>
    > > >>> Hi,
    > > >>> The throttle body seal appears good, might have
    > > been just replaced
    > > >>> (can't remember for sure). To make sure I
    > > sprayed ether all around
    > > >>> it
    > > >>> and the other connections on the manifold and
    > > got no audible change
    > > >>> in
    > > >>> rpm (at idle the whole manifold is under vacuum,
    > > right? just
    > > > making sure).
    > > >>>
    > > >>> Any other ideas?
    > > >>>
    > > >>> Thanks,
    > > >>> Dave Towle
    > > >>>
    > > >>> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, <peugeot@m...>
    > > wrote:
    > > >>>> Take a look at the throttlebody the seal to see
    > > if it is sucking
    > > > air.
    > > >>>>
    > > >>>>
    > > >>>> ----- Original Message -----
    > > >>>> From: "Dave Towle" <davidtowle@m...>
    > > >>>> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
    > > >>>> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 4:19 PM
    > > >>>> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle
    > > Problem
    > > >>>>
    > > >>>>
    > > >>>>> I retorqued the head and reset the valve
    > > clearances after
    > > > Mike Aube
    > > >>>>> did a nice job replacing my car's head (among
    > > other fixes).
    > > >>>>> Unfortunately this has given me 2 new
    > > problems, a)oil leaks (for
    > > >>>>> which the solution is obvious, try again) and
    > > b) I lost the
    > > > cold idle.
    > > >>>>> Each time I try to start the car, everything
    > > seems fine at
    > > > first with
    > > >>>>> the engine going to normal idle speed, then
    > > after 4 to 6
    > > > seconds the
    > > >>>>> speed starts dropping, and it soon stalls once
    > > it gets below
    > > > 500 rpm.
    > > >>>>> Once the engine is warm all is fine.
    > > >>>>> Now the only way I could figure out to get
    > > the valve cover
    > > > on and
    > > >>>>> off was by loosening the white plastic gadget
    > > on the throttle
    > > > plate
    > > >>>>> shaft that cradles the throttle wire. When I
    > > was done it
    > > > seemed to
    > > >>>>> only pop into one position so I don't see how
    > > I could have
    > > > changed its
    > > >>>>> alignment or anything, but I'm not 100% sure.
    > > I also had to
    > > > remove
    > > >>>>> one of the 2 screws for the bracket that holds
    > > the throttle
    > > > cable in
    > > >>>>> alignment with the white gadget.
    > > >>>>> Any suggestions on what a neophyte can do to
    > > trace this
    > > > problem out?
    > > >>>>>
    > > >>>>> TIA,
    > > >>>>> Dave Towle
    > > >>>>>
    > > >>>>>
    > > >>>>>
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