Re: [Peugeot-L] 84 505 STI: some brake questions / response

From: pyoung <bf135_at_scn.org>
Date: 07/13/05

Ken
I just meant push the the rod in as far as it will go. This is how you have to have it when you measure the gap adjustment when the valve is in the car. If your brakes have been working fine up to this point, and the lengths of the rod protrusion, 'when pushed in as far as it will go', is the same on both old and new, then the gap between the rod on the new valve and the lever adjustment pin , when installed, will probably be ok for a short drive. It may be spot on in which case you're laughing. Try some panic stops to see if the rears are locking up before the fronts do.

Peat
On Jul 13, 2005, at 11:07 PM, kenneth parker wrote:

> Peat,
> I'm not sure what you mean when you refer to the new valve "piston
> length" being "pushed all the way in." The end of the new
> cylinder/valve (that is machined and is clearly the point of
> adjustment) that I bought protrudes out of the new cylinder a tiny bit
> and is flush with the end of the little rubber cap. I tried to push
> it in with my thumb, but it seemed quite reluctant to travel. I
> haven't pulled the old one yet, but when I do I will break loose the
> adjuster making sure to keep it exactly where it is now.
> So I assume, from what you are saying that it is okay to drive to, at
> least my friend's welding shop (where they have a drive up lift)? I
> am curious how an improperly adjusted proportioning valve could affect
> the front brakes though, and cause them to lock. Thank you for the
> response.
> Ken
> On Jul 13, 2005, at 10:27 PM, pyoung wrote:
>
>> Chances are if you haven't readjusted it or loosened the adjusting nut
>> that it probably is fairly close to where it should be if the new
>> valve
>> piston length, when pushed all the way in, matches your old one.
>> If it's not the only danger would be a panic stop and locking up your
>> rears or locking the fronts.
>>
>> Peat
>>
>> On Jul 13, 2005, at 9:49 PM, kenneth parker wrote:
>>
>>> Kevin,
>>> I only have one pair of ramps. I could see installing the valve,
>>> bleeding the system, putting the car back on level ground, rolling it
>>> forward and backward a few feet and then backing it onto the ramps.
>>> Could I then jack up the front of the car to level it off with the
>>> rear and then do the job or do all four wheels have to be on equal
>>> solid ground (I suppose that I could use some 4X4's placed under the
>>> front wheels to level and then lower the car onto them)?
>>> If all the above doesn't apply can I, after installing the valve and
>>> bleeding the system, take it to a welder friend's shop to do the
>>> adjustment or should I not drive it until the adjustment is right on?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ken
>>> On Jul 13, 2005, at 3:11 AM, K Hardie wrote:
>>>
>>>> You could jack it up, R&R the valve and lubricate/loosen the
>>>> adjuster
>>>> first, but you need to set it with the car on its wheels and rolled
>>>> (not jacked) into place. Dont do it with only two ramps.
>>>
>>>
>>>
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