Re: [Peugeot-L] Re: 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle Problem

From: gary freeman <riven2649_at_yahoo.com>
Date: 07/14/05


  The aux air valve should be open when cold as it   needs to give the engine extra air for warm-up and   then closed when warm. If it's the aux air valve   and the warm idle is fine, then it's probably not   open cold which you can check by removing the hoses   and looking through it.

  • Dave Towle <davidtowle@mail.com> wrote:

> Hi Peat,
>
> Yes I have some of the manual but its an old one and
> as an amateur I
> find it very difficult to use, compared to a normal
> Haynes or something.
>
> So how can I test the auxilary air valve? From what
> you are saying it
> sounds like I should block off all flow through and
> see if the cold
> idle problem improves?
>
> Thanks, Dave Towle
>
> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, pyoung
> <bf135@s...> wrote:
> > Dave,
> > Is the auxilary air valve wiring working? It could
> be that the valve is
> > not being electrically closed when cold but once
> the manifold gets warm
> > enough heat induction would keep it shut.
> > Do you have the workshop manual for the n9txx
> engines?
> >
> > Peat
> >
> >
> > On Jul 11, 2005, at 6:12 PM, Dave Towle wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Mike and anyone else who can help,
> > >
> > > - PCV hose looks fine.
> > > - I checked the air intake boot all around with
> a mirror, couldn't see
> > > any problems although its hard to see in the
> folds. I felt around it
> > > too.
> > > - On the thermostat there's 4 individual sensor
> wires, on these I
> > > polished the prong and tightened up the female
> side and used a drop of
> > > VW's Stabilant (discussed on this list a year
> or two ago as a great
> > > way to improve electrical conections).
> > > - There's also 2 fancy connectors held on by a
> wire clip, each with 2
> > > small connections inside, all I could do with
> these tiny things was
> > > make and break the contact a few times hoping
> that would clean them
> > > up. They looked nice and shiny from the
> beginning though.
> > > - I assume the air temp sensor is the one in the
> curved part of the
> > > inlet, I cleaned this up like the individual
> thermsostat wires above.
> > >
> > > So I did all this stuff and no change to the
> cold start problem. And
> > > by the way I haven't seen this create any light
> flashing codes.
> > >
> > > It seems this is likely a problem with the ECU
> thinking the engine is
> > > warm when it is actually cold, right? Is there
> any easy way to test
> > > this by convincing the ECU that the engine is
> cold, like grounding one
> > > fo the above wires, or directly connecting 2
> wires to bypass a sensor?
> > >
> > > Thanks, Dave Towle
> > >
> > > --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Aube"
> <maube@i...> wrote:
> > >> Check the PCV hose, air intake boot, from AFM
> to turbo, all the
> > > electricall
> > >> connections around the thermostat housing and
> air temp sensor on
> > >> intake
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "Dave Towle" <davidtowle@m...>
> > >> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
> > >> Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 1:09 PM
> > >> Subject: [Peugeot-L] Re: 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle
> Problem
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> Hi,
> > >>> The throttle body seal appears good, might
> have been just replaced
> > >>> (can't remember for sure). To make sure I
> sprayed ether all around
> > >>> it
> > >>> and the other connections on the manifold and
> got no audible change
> > >>> in
> > >>> rpm (at idle the whole manifold is under
> vacuum, right? just
> > > making sure).
> > >>>
> > >>> Any other ideas?
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks,
> > >>> Dave Towle
> > >>>
> > >>> --- In peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com,
> <peugeot@m...> wrote:
> > >>>> Take a look at the throttlebody the seal to
> see if it is sucking
> > > air.
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > >>>> From: "Dave Towle" <davidtowle@m...>
> > >>>> To: <peugeot-L@yahoogroups.com>
> > >>>> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 4:19 PM
> > >>>> Subject: [Peugeot-L] 87 505 N9TE Cold Idle
> Problem
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> I retorqued the head and reset the valve
> clearances after
> > > Mike Aube
> > >>>>> did a nice job replacing my car's head
> (among other fixes).
> > >>>>> Unfortunately this has given me 2 new
> problems, a)oil leaks (for
> > >>>>> which the solution is obvious, try again)
> and b) I lost the
> > > cold idle.
> > >>>>> Each time I try to start the car, everything
> seems fine at
> > > first with
> > >>>>> the engine going to normal idle speed, then
> after 4 to 6
> > > seconds the
> > >>>>> speed starts dropping, and it soon stalls
> once it gets below
> > > 500 rpm.
> > >>>>> Once the engine is warm all is fine.
> > >>>>> Now the only way I could figure out to get
> the valve cover
> > > on and
> > >>>>> off was by loosening the white plastic
> gadget on the throttle
> > > plate
> > >>>>> shaft that cradles the throttle wire. When
> I was done it
> > > seemed to
> > >>>>> only pop into one position so I don't see
> how I could have
> > > changed its
> > >>>>> alignment or anything, but I'm not 100%
> sure. I also had to
> > > remove
> > >>>>> one of the 2 screws for the bracket that
> holds the throttle
> > > cable in
> > >>>>> alignment with the white gadget.
> > >>>>> Any suggestions on what a neophyte can do
> to trace this
> > > problem out?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> TIA,
> > >>>>> Dave Towle
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
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